Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.9--2007

Joan's Cat

Cat Care...Article

( Cat Poisoning - What You Need To Know )

Many kinds of poisons from many sources can kill cats. Sometimes the poisoning occurs when a cat consumes a toxic substance. Other times it is the result of a cats self-grooming and ingesting poison. For example, a cat may walk through a rodent tracking powder, a petroleum product or antifreeze and consequent consumption of the toxic substance occurs during grooming. Still other poisons may be absorbed through the skin, particularly petroleum-based chemicals or coal-tar products.
Unless the cat has been seen consuming the poison, it may be difficult to diagnose the cause as rapidly as is desirable. Prevention is the best means of protecting your cat.The following information is by no means complete as it lists some of the more common poisons. It is presented as an alert to keep toxic substances away from cats and to help you assess a situation in which you think your cat may have been accidentally poisoned.
Dangerous Household Products Here are examples of potentially toxic products found in the home:
Cleaning and household supplies: ammonia, bleach, cleaning fluids and disinfectants, drain cleaner, soaps and detergents, mothballs and matches.Garage items: gasoline, kerosene, brake fluid, windshield wiper fluid and antifreeze. Many cats are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze and lap it up when it is spilled on the ground or not properly stored.
Agricultural products: insecticides, rodenticides, herbicides, fungicides, snail or slug bait, worm and mollusk toxicants and plant growth hormones.Workshop supplies: paints, paint thinners and removers, wood preservatives and mineral spirits.
Medicines: aspirin, acetaminophen (Tylenol and other similar products), diet pills, sleeping pills, tranquilizers, laxatives and rubbing alcohol.
Cosmetics deodorants, hair coloring, nail polish and remover, permanent wave lotion, suntan lotion, hair spray and perfumes.
Other hazards: scrapings from lead-based paints; contaminated food; water from toilet bowels, especially if chemically treated.
To protect a cat from accidental poisoning, store products found around the home in inaccessible containers, properly dispose of empty containers and clean up spills promptly.
Dangerous Plants The list of plants potentially dangerous to cats is long. Some of the more common plants that can be poisonous to cats are:
Dieffenbachia, philodendron and caladium cause throat irritation and will burn the throat just as much coming up as going down. Do not induce vomiting and seek veterinary treatment.
English ivy, iris, amaryllis, daffodil and tulip (especially the bulbs) cause gastric irritation and sometimes central nervous system excitement followed by coma and, in severe cases, death. Induce vomiting and seek veterinary treatment.
Foxglove, lily of the valley, oleander, monkshood and larkspur can be life threatening because the cardiovascular system is affected.
The different species of yew are also toxic because they affect the nervous system. If any of these are ingested, get the cat to a veterinarian immediately. Remember you are dealing with a life-threatening emergency.
Poison By Inhalation Cats are vulnerable to the following gases if inhaled: ammonia, carbon monoxide, fumes from heating or cooking gas. A cat suffering from poisoning by inhalation may exhibit weakness and dizziness, breathing difficulties, and bright red lips and tongue. Get the cat into fresh air as quickly as possible. Prompt veterinary treatment is essential.
Symptoms General symptoms of poison by ingestion include pain, nausea, vomiting, and/or collapse. Burns around the mouth, lips and tongue indicate that an acid or alkali such as drain cleaner or paint thinner has been swallowed or the cat has suffered an electric shock. An abnormal odor to the cats breath, coughing or bloody vomitus occur when a petroleum product such as kerosene or gasoline has been swallowed. If the poison is an acid, alkali or petroleum product, do not induce vomiting.
If the cat has swallowed medicine, cosmetics or other noncorrosives, an emetic such as syrup of ipecac can be used to induce vomiting.
Mental confusion, vomiting and eventual collapse are symptoms of antifreeze poisoning. All cases of antifreeze poisoning require immediate treatment by a veterinarian if the cat is to survive.
Insect Bites and Stings Insect bites and stings can cause a mild or severe reaction depending upon the potency of the venom and the sensitivity of the victim. Spider bites most often occur on the front paws or face of the cat. Swelling and reddening of the skin occur at the site of the bite.
Gastrointestinal upsets and nervousness are indications of a toxic reaction and the cat should receive immediate treatment by a veterinarian.
Inquisitive kittens and young cats are most often the victims of bee or wasp stings. The sting site will be red and swollen and the stinger may still be in the cats skin. The stinger should be carefully removed and cold compresses applied to the wound site. A paste of baking soda and water will help relieve irritation and itching. Severe cases may require treatment by a veterinarian. If the sting is in the mouth, swelling within the mouth, tongue or throat can block air passages. Prompt veterinary treatment is essential.
The Dangers of Rodenticides Rodenticides pose another danger to cats. Most rodenticides are formulated for use as toxic baits or tracking powders. When well designed, the baits are attractive to rodents and have little potential for direct ingestion by cats. However, secondary poisoning may result when a cat catches and ingests a poisoned rodent.
Tracking powders are a direct threat to cats. The powders adhere to the paws and the coat of the cat and are ingested when the cat grooms itself. If you observe your cat ingesting tracking powder, consult your veterinarian immediately. If, for any reason, this is not possible, check the package label for information concerning antidotes. If the label does not provide this information, induce vomiting with ½ teaspoon ipecac syrup and bathe the cat to remove tracking powder remaining on its body.
Many of the rodenticides contain anticoagulant (blood thinning) chemicals. When ingested by a cat, life-threatening hemorrhaging can result. Signs of anticoagulant poisoning include weakness, blood in the urine or stools, bleeding gums and nose bleeds. However, it can take several days before any of these signs are apparent, depending on the quantity ingested and the time period of ingestion. If your cat exhibits any of these signs, prompt treatment by your veterinarian is essential.
Another danger for cats is a new class of rodenticides, which cause organ failure and death through soft tissue calcification. The kidneys, heart and lungs are vulnerable to calcification. Signs of this kind of poisoning vary with organs most affected. They may include twitching, nausea and vomiting blood. The best protection against rodenticide poisoning is to use safety baits in a rodent control program. If tracking powders are used, keep all pets and children away from the area,
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( Common Ailments In Cats )

Cat Allergies: Cats, like humans, can suffer from a wide range of allergies. The most common allergy among cats is flea allergy. As cats get older, their sensitivity to flea bites increases. Food allergies account for another 5-10% of cat allergies. Food allergies might manifest themselves as dermatitis and severe itching, or vomiting and diarrhea, but may take up to 10 years to show up.Vomiting: Some cats vomit all the time, while others rarely do. One of the most common reasons for vomiting is hairballs. All cats benefit from regular brushing to help minimize shedding and ingestion of hair. To check to see if your cat has vomited as a result of hairballs, examine the vomit carefully for small grayish pellets or lumps, regardless of your cat’s hair color. Hairballs can occur even with shorthair cats.Another reason for vomiting might be that your cat is allergic to its food. Try switching to another brand with substantially different ingredients and no food colorings to see if that helps. Sometimes cats vomit when they have worms. Consult your vet for a worming appointment. Periodic throwing-up can also be a sign of an overactive thyroid or kidney infection. This is particularly common in older cats. Your vet can do a blood test to find out about either. You know your cat’s habits. If it vomits more than usual or in some way demonstrates a departure from its normal habits, take it to the vet. The main thing is to give it plenty of fluids so it does not become dehydrated.
Diarrhea: If your cat has persistent diarrhea, you can try changing its diet. You can try boiled rice, cottage cheese, bread, plain yogurt, boiled chicken, chicken broth or strained meat. Choose the ones your cat prefers. If symptoms continue for more than two days, take your cat to the vet with a stool sample. You should also call your vet immediately if your kitten is weak or listless, or refuses to take fluids.
Feline Urinary Syndrome: (FUS) Feline urinary syndrome, or FUS, is an inflammation, irritation, and/or obstruction of the lower urinary tract. The inability to pass urine can become a life and death situation if not treated quickly. FUS is far more common among male cats than females. Your cat might have FUS if it strains to urinate, has blood in the urine, makes frequent trips to the litter box with only small amounts voided, or forgets how to use the litterbox.
Diabetes: Diabetes occurs in cats who cannot properly regulate their blood sugar level. Symptoms may include excessive thirst and urination; loss of weight or obesity. Older cats are more likely to develop diabetes than younger ones.Diabetic cats should be kept indoors to prevent accidental feeding that could elevate its blood sugar.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus: (FIV) Though this disease is related to HIV, it is NOT possible to contract AIDS from a cat with FIV. FIV is passed through open wounds such as cat bites, resulting in an impaired immune system. As there is currently no vaccine for this disease, FIV-positive cats should be kept inside and away from other cats.Upper Respiratory Disease Upper respiratory disease will manifest itself in your cat by cold or flu-like symptoms, like a runny nose and sneezing combined with reddened, runny eyes.
Feline Herpes Virus: Don’t worry, you can’t get herpes from your cat! FHV affects only cats.
Chlamydia Psittaci: Chlamydia is a bacteria-like organism that inhabits the tissues around the eyes. The most common symptom is conjunctivitis, which is generally seen in one eye at first, then spreads to both eyes.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.8--2007

This is Pat's

hungry Cat...

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.7--2007

What is the Cat

trying to tell us ?

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You know.....

'' I still buy fur coats ''

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Helpful Article About Your Cat !

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( Furniture Scratching )

Cats make great pets. They love to play, they love to cuddle when you're watching TV or sleeping, and they purr for no reason other than being near you. But they also love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive stereo speakers. And no amount of reprimanding or pulling out your hair in frustration seems to make them stop. But don't despair; there are some things you can do. Scratching is easier to deal with if you understand why cats scratch in the first place. In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual mark is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognize it (not that we appreciate its significance).

The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by members of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior. Cats secrete pheromones from superficial glands in the skin of the cat's paws through the process of kneading. The message is invisible to all creatures and is undetectable unless you have the right equipment (a super sensitive nose) and are close enough. A competitor coming up to the site will see the scratch marks and then smell the message: another cat has already claimed this place. One thing's for sure; the signal is not a friendly one. Scratching has additional functions, too. You might think your cat scratches to sharpen his claws, but it more likely it provides your cat with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of his paws. It also assists in shucking off old nail husks. The Domestic SituationHealthy and natural to your cat, scratching can become a real problem for the owner. Even your fairly secure housecat will occasionally feel the need to leave his mark by scratching, and the most usual target is your furniture. Faced with this problem, many people consider declawing surgery. Many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post. However, some veterinarians still believe declawing is a safe procedure. Declawing Facts
The surgery. The procedure for declawing involves more than just removal of the nail. It also removes the nail bed and often part or all of the last digit (finger bone).
Intensity of pain. Many cats recovering from this surgery suffer from pain as they wake up. In fact, declawing is considered such a painful surgery that it has been used in studies to investigate methods of pain relief.

Duration of pain. In most cases the pain appears to subside after 24 to 36 hours. However, during that time your cat will be gingerly walking around the place as if his paws are extremely tender – and they probably are. In other instances the pain lasts considerably longer, especially if there are surgical complications.
Adverse consequences. Some cats are still hobbling around years later, though the majority eventually return to “normal” as far as we can tell.
Litterbox use after the surgery. Your cat might find the litter painful on his tender paws. Vets often recommend putting torn up newspaper in the litterbox to prevent litter particles from adhering to the wounds. This practice sometimes leads to litterbox aversion and subsequently inappropriate elimination of urine and/or feces.
Behavioral change. Aggressive cats may be more likely to bite instead of swat with their paws once they have been declawed. Alternatives to DeclawingThere are several good options to declawing. These take the form of training your cat to use scratching posts, trimming the nails, and nail covers.Scratching PostsTo persuade your cat to use a scratching post, you have to understand some basics:
Keep one extra scratching post in the household. If you have four cats, keep five posts. Once the problem is under control, those that are not being used can be removed.
Each scratching post should be tall enough for your cat to stretch up to its full height without being able to reach the top, i.e. about 3 feet high.

The scratching post should be steady. No self-respecting cat will entertain the thought of using a post that rocks or falls over.
Use the correct material. One of the essential functions of scratching is to leave a visible mark. Fabric that doesn't tear or fray will be of no use. Burlap is a favorite with many cats.
Choose an attractive location for your cat. Most people try to hide scratching posts from view. This completely negates the whole purpose of scratching for the cat. Position posts in obvious areas at first, preferably near scratching sites that your cat has selected for himself, then gradually repositioned to less obvious places later.DeterrentsSeveral deterrents are available and may help.

Physical. If a particularly valuable piece of furniture must be protected during training, heavy gauge plastic sheeting can be applied to alter its texture and to serve as a deterrent.
Chemical. You can try moth repellent aerosols, which contain naphthol, though the area has to be “freshened” periodically as the odor will fade.
Pheromonal. “Feliway®,” a pheromone-containing proprietary spray, has been touted as a repellant for furniture scratching cats. The idea is that the pheromone, a natural scent signal and, in this case, an extract of feline facial secretions, will alter the “significance” of the previously scratch-marked area.

Environmental measures. Territorial stress may aggravate marking. If there are squabbles between cohabiting cats, or if a dominant or anxious cat is constantly aggravated by neighborhood intruders, you should address these territorial issues first. Nail CoversA few years ago an excellent product was introduced to reduce damage from furniture scratching humanely. “Soft Paws”™ (or Soft Claws) are plastic nail caps that can be super-glued to a cat's claws following a preliminary nail trim. The results are often spectacular, with damage to furniture practically non-existent while the nail caps remain in place. The manufacturers recommend a complete replacement every month or so, but replacing lost nails individually as they fall off also works (and involves far less work). Nail TrimsDamage to furniture can be reduced if the cat's nails are kept well trimmed. It helps to learn how to do this yourself and to have a sharp pair of nail trimmers made specifically for cats (don't use human trimmers). It is sufficient to remove the sharp points so that the nail ends are squared but take care not to cut into the “quick” – the vascular and sensitive part of the nail. Ask your veterinarian to teach you how and to recommend some good nail clippers.

Source: Pet Place

Featuring,,,The Cat of the Day --Sept. 6--2007

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'' My Cat ''

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Helpful Article About Your Cat !

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( The Truth About Feeding Your Cat Raw Meat )


Myths about proper diets for our cats seem always to be with us. Some of these myths may have a grain of truth, but this truth is often greatly exaggerated or misapplied. Other myths are nurtured by misinformation and mistrust.
A current myth that could be threatening to our cats’ health involves raw meat diets for dogs and cats. The proponents of this belief question the wholesomeness and nutritional value of commercial cat foods. But, in fact, there is no scientific substantiation for raw meat diets.
The truth is that good quality cat foods are backed by years of feline and canine nutrition studies. They are the result of scientific studies by researchers in veterinary colleges and animal nutritionists at reputable cat food manufacturers. Ralston Purina Company, for example, began its cat nutrition studies over 70 years ago. This work continues as researchers launch new studies to learn even more about the relationship of diet to our cats’ health.
In our own diets, meat is combined with vegetables, fruits, breads and other foods to give us the balanced nutrition we need. If we were to eat one particular food consistently, chances are we would become malnourished or develop health problems. No single food or food group can provide all the nutrients we need in proper proportions. Manufacturers of good quality cat foods have incorporated all the nutrients a dog or cat needs during a particular life stage into nutritionally complete and balanced diets.
Although meat is a source of protein, it has very low levels of calcium, a mineral our cats require for proper bone and tooth development. Calcium also plays an important role in blood clotting, muscle contraction and transmission of nerve impulses.
It’s important to remember that nutrients do not work alone, and calcium is no exception. Mineral nutrients are interrelated. Calcium and phosphorus have a scientifically established relationship in the formation of bones and teeth, provided a proper balance is maintained. This balance is usually not present in meat. If large quantities of raw meat are fed over time, skeletal problems may develop.
We tend to think of liver as being a "healthy" meat. Served with other foods, it is a beneficial part of many human diets. Liver has a high level of vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin that is stored by the body. When liver is fed to cats in large quantities over a period of time, vitamin A toxicity can result. This can lead to improper bone development, lameness and bone decalcification.
Raw meat carries the threat of bacteria and parasites. Salmonella is a bacterial organism that can cause a variety of disease in humans and animals. The risk of salmonellosis is always present when cats are fed raw meat diets. Certain species of tapeworm can be found in raw meat and passed on to a cat who ingests the meat. High quality commercial cat foods are carefully processed to protect against salmonella or internal parasite infection.
It’s true that cats and dogs consume a certain amount of muscle meat when they eat wild animals for survival. However, they also consume the bones, intestinal contents and internal organs which come closer to providing a complete and balanced diet.
Attempting to supplement a raw meat diet with vitamins and minerals is risky for your cat’s health. Certain vitamins and minerals react with one another. Unless they are present in the proper amounts a cat may suffer malnutrition.
When a myth involving cat nutrition is suddenly exploited, we should ask ourselves: "What scientific research supports this statement?" "Have veterinary colleges done research to validate it?" "Do respected researchers in the fields of canine and feline nutrition support it?" "They said" or "I heard that" do not provide the substantiation we need when confronted with myths involving the nutrition and well-being of our special companions.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.5-2007

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That's my last beer

... I Swear !

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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

Care for Your Cat : ( Dental health )

Just like humans, cats are vulnerable to gum disease, infections and tooth problems. In fact, 60% of pets more than 5 years old suffer from serious dental disease, and in certain breeds of cat (Somali, Abyssinian, Burmese and Siamese), the proportion is as high as 80-90%.
Bad breath is caused by the action of bacteria in the mouth, and is an indicator of dental disease. If the problem is not attended to at this stage, it can progress until tooth loss, bleeding from the mouth and/or decreased appetite are seen.
Sometimes dental disease can lead to far more serious problems elsewhere in the body. Bacteria multiply readily in the mouth, and as the gums become inflamed and start to bleed, these bacteria gain access to the blood stream. They circulate throughout the body (a condition called "septicaemia") and lodge in organs, causing abscesses to form. The tissues most prone to this are the heart valves, organs that filter blood (kidney and liver), and tissues with many, very small vessels (lungs and joints). This process can lead to problems such as severe arthritis, or major life threatening illnesses such as kidney or heart failure.
So what can I do?
Have your pet's teeth examined by your veterinarian, and proceed with a professional dental clean if it is recommended. However, long-term control and prevention of dental disease requires regular home care.
Dental home care may include:
Tooth brushing (at least 3 times a week). This is the best form of dental hygiene and many products are now available to assist you.
Raw chicken wings (using Mother Nature's tooth brush). The chewing of tough cartilage and bone scrapes tartar and plaque off teeth.
Dental exercisers, chew toys and special diets (e.g. Hill's t/d diet). These all assist in reducing plaque, but are rarely enough to treat advanced dental disease.
The important thing to remember is to start early. Kittens quickly learn to accept dental home care as part of their daily routine, allowing you to develop proper dental hygiene early enough to prevent problems. However, older animals can also learn and benefit from the same processes. Regular and frequent attention to your pet's teeth will avoid annual visits to the Hospital for a professional dental clean, and will also improve your pet's overall health.
What is involved in a professional dental clean?
Your cat needs to be anaesthetised to carry out a proper dental examination, and to clean all teeth without distressing the animal. In older pets we recommend a pre-anaesthetic blood profile before the anaesthetic.
After anaesthetic induction, a thorough dental examination is carried out. This involves charting the teeth present and assessing their condition, including the degree of tartar, gingivitis (gum inflammation) and any pockets in the gums around the teeth. After the teeth are examined, a treatment protocol is designed. This usually begins with removing tartar above the gum line using a special dental burr. After the visible surface of the teeth is clean, tartar is scraped out of gum pockets by hand.The teeth are then polished using a dental polisher and specialised fine grade paste. The dental procedure ends here if dental disease is not severe, however, if extractions are necessary due to advanced periodontal disease, these would then be performed.
When extracting teeth, the small teeth or incisors are often removed first using a hand-held dental elevator. However, the canine and larger teeth (premolars and molars) usually require the gum to be elevated from the bone, which is then removed by burring with a dental air drill to free the tooth. It is often necessary to cut teeth into root segments using this air drill to allow complete removal of the tooth. The remaining bone is smoothed using a special burr and the gums sutured closed over the socket. When all the dental work is done, the animal is given an antibiotic injection, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your pet is allowed to wake up.
Following a professional dental clean, a home care programme is designed for you depending on the severity of your cat's dental disease. As mentioned previously, this may involve regular tooth brushing, feeding raw chicken wings and/or a special diet. One of our staff will discuss this with you and answer any questions you might have when you come to collect your pet. We perform a progress examination to monitor gum healing 7 days after surgery for any animal that has had extractions. We also recommend all pets be examined 6 months after dental cleaning to determine the effectiveness of your home dental care.
Are there any alternatives to tooth removal?Newer techniques now allow us to preserve teeth at times rather than remove them. This may involve root canal work or specialised fillings for eroded teeth. Tooth capping can also be performed, but unfortunately man has not yet found materials strong enough to withstand the forces of nature, thus crowns are prone to breaking if hard objects are chewed. These complex dental techniques would be conducted by a specialised Veterinary Dentist.
How can I get my pet to tolerate tooth brushing?Starting your pet on tooth brushing may seem difficult at first, but with the right attitude and gentle persuasion, you will get there!
Because this is a very new sensation for your pet, take it slowly. Start by handling the mouth gently, using your finger to rub the gum line. A little tuna juice on the tip of your finger helps your cat to enjoy the sensation! Next wrap a piece of gauze around your finger, dip it into water and gently scrub the teeth along the gum line. You can gradually progress to using special animal toothpaste on either an animal toothbrush or a soft children's toothbrush. Human toothpaste is not recommended, and neither is baking soda and salt, since this can cause problems in older animals.
When you first start tooth brushing, just lift the upper lip on one side to expose the outer surfaces of some teeth and brush them by making gentle circling motions from the gums towards the ends of the teeth. Keep the initial period short and don't insist if your pet starts to object. If you manage to clean only one tooth before your pet has had enough, fine. The main thing is to keep it from becoming an ordeal for both of you. Take heart from the fact that in one regard it is easier than doing your own teeth, because you only need to do the outside - the tongue does the inside job for you!
When you have succeeded in brushing some easy-to-reach teeth, go for the complete set. One way to open your cat's mouth is to put one hand across the bridge of the nose, then tilt the head back and hold it steady (similar to when you give tablets). The less you restrain your pet the better. Start with brief but productive bouts of mouth opening and tooth brushing.
Even if you do not get far in the process, always reward your pet. Give praise and a treat immediately after each dental hygiene session. If you make these periods a precursor to more enjoyable things (such as dinner!), your cat is likely to be more compliant.
If you manage a good brushing session three times a week you will save your cat 90% of the dental disease he or she would have otherwise suffered. Brush daily and your pet is likely to avoid gum disease altogether !

Box Hill Veterianary Hospital

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.4-2007

I'm Rose E. and here is my Lovely Cat !
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Helpful Article for Your Cat !

( Heatstroke And Frostbite )



Heat Stroke: Heat stroke most commonly occurs in cats left in poorly ventilated or closed cars exposed to the sun. Unavailability of drinking water, excessive exercise or excitement may also be a cause. Symptoms include open-mouthed breathing, uncontrollable panting, drooling or foaming at the mouth, gums and tongue turning bluish or gray. Act quickly to reduce body temperature. Submerge the stricken cat in cool water (do not submerge its head) or spray with a gentle stream from a hose. Ice packs may be applied to the head or neck. Prompt veterinary care is needed to prevent
brain damage, or in some cases, death.
Frostbite: Very young, old or debilitated cats are the most prone to frostbite, possibly because they are less able to seek shelter when exposed to the extreme cold. The pads of the feet, the tail, and the tips of the ears are the most likely to be affected. The skin becomes pale, then reddens and becomes hot and painful to the touch. Swelling may occur. The hair may fall out and the superficial layers of the skin may peel.
If a cat experiences frostbite, take it to a warm place immediately. Thaw out the frostbitten areas slowly. Do not apply hot applications and do not rub or massage frozen tissues. This may cause further damage or loss of tissue. Warm the affected areas by using warm moist towels that are changed frequently. Discontinue warming as soon as the affected tissues become flushed. Wrap the cat in a blanket to conserve its body heat.
Antiseptic cream or Vaseline may be used to protect the skin once the skin is thawed. A veterinarian should check the extent of the damage as soon as possible.A cat who has suffered frost bite should be protected from further exposure to the cold. Frostbitten tissues are more susceptible to repeated freezing.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.3-2007

Kyle's Cat Day !

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.31-2007

Basil's Baby" watercolor © Drew Strouble
http://www.catmandrew.com/
Hi Everyone.. I'm Drew Strouble
and here is one of my Cat Art Work .
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's way of keeping law & order? Claw Enforcement


Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Feline Vaccinations )

Periodic vaccinations, or immunizations, are an important part of your cat's preventive health care plan.
Let's start by explaining what vaccination does for your cat.
In very simple terms, vaccination provides protection for your cat against the agent (usually a virus or bacteria) included in the vaccine. For instance, a rabies vaccine protects your cat against developing rabies.
To be more specific, vaccination (or immunization) is the act of introducing a virus, in an inactivated form, to your cat's immune system in an attempt to allow the immune system to develop protection (in the form of antibodies) against the virus in question before your cat is exposed to the naturally occurring, more dangerous virus.
There are several different types of vaccines which may be used.
A killed vaccine (KV) is a vaccine which contains a virus which is no longer "living". Your cat's immune system develops antibodies to the virus which provide protection against the disease caused by the virus, without the danger of your cat becoming ill. Once adequate numbers of antibodies have been formed and an adequate immune response is achieved, your cat will be safe in the event that he/she is exposed to the "living" form of the virus. Many rabies vaccines are killed vaccines.
A "modified-live" vaccine (MLV) is a vaccine which contains a virus which has been modified from its dangerous state so that it no longer causes disease. By introducing this "modified" virus to your cat, your cat's immune system is able to produce antibodies which protect him/her from the un-modified, disease-causing virus.
Other vaccine types utilize technologies such as recombinant DNA to produce immunity for your pet. These techniques render the disease agent to an inactive state which produces immunity when it is introduced to your cat's immune system.
In recent years, there has been some concern about potential vaccine reactions which has caused some changes in the way we vaccinate our animals today.
Currently, there are a group of "core" vaccines, which are vaccines which are required by all cats.
There is also a group of "non-core" vaccines which may or may not be necessary, depending on your cat's individual lifestyle and risk of exposure.
Which vaccines need to be given and how often they are given will vary from one cat to another. Your cat's veterinarian can help you decide which vaccines and what vaccination schedule is appropriate for your cat.

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.29-2007

Hi Everyone.. I'm Brett F.
and here is my Cat ... Mauve
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

Why did a person with an unspayed female cat have to go to court?
For kitty littering.
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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Physical Examination )

Physical examination is an essential part of the routine health care for any pet. A thorough physical exam explores all parts of your pet's body, from the nose all the way to the tail.
Your veterinarian will examine your pet's teeth and mouth for signs of gingivitis (inflammation of the gums) and/or dental disease, as well as looking for any abnormal growths in the mouth. The color of your pet's gums will be examined, making sure they a normal pink color and are not pale (from anemia), yellow (as a result of icterus, often due to liver failure), or cyanotic (as a result of breathing difficulties).
The eyes will be checked for signs of cataracts, glaucoma, corneal injuries, or other abnormalities.
Your pet's ears will be examined to make certain they are healthy and that there is no evidence of infection, inflammation, or other abnormalities such as polyps.
The externally palpable lymph nodes will be examined to make sure they are of normal size.
Your veterinarian will use a stethoscope to listen to your pet's heart and lung sounds, looking for heart murmurs, abnormal heart rhythms, and abnormally harsh or abnormally quiet sounds in the lung fields.
He/she will also check your pet's pulse rate to make sure it is not too fast or too slow and that there are no "missed" beats.
The respiratory rate will also be checked.
Your veterinarian will palpate your pet's abdomen to make certain he/she cannot feel any abnormal masses within the abdomen.
Your pet's genitalia will be examined to make certain there are no abnormal discharges or swellings.
Your veterinarian may also want check your pet's temperature.
If you have noticed any abnormal lumps or bumps on your pet's body, this would be a good time to point them out to your veterinarian.
You should also advise your veterinarian of any changes in your pet's behavior or eating habits.
If your pet is acting abnormally in any way, your veterinarian will need to know about it. This may include such things as diarrhea or vomiting, coughing or sneezing. runny eyes or a runny nose, difficulty urinating or defecating, difficulty chewing food, difficulty going up and down stairs or rising from a sitting position.
It may also include acting more sluggish or lethargic than normal, not eating as much as normal, drinking less than normal or drinking more than normal.
If your dog is having accidents, such as urinating or defecating in the house, or your cat is urinating or defecating outside of his/her litter box or in abnormal places, you should inform your veterinarian.
Likewise, if your pet is urinating involuntarily and leaving pools of urine where he/she sleeps or rests, your veterinarian will need to be informed.
This information will allow your veterinarian to focus on specific body systems in order to reach a diagnosis regarding the cause of the abnormalities. The physical examination is the place where any such diagnosis needs to start, although additional testing (blood tests, x-rays, etc) may be necessary to accurately diagnose some conditions.
In addition to helping your veterinarian determine what is wrong with your pet when he/she is not feeling well, regular physical examinations may also help detect early signs of disease in pets which are still acting normally. In this case, your veterinarian may be able to help you treat the problem before your pet begins to feel badly.
Physical examinations are important for pets of any age. However, as your pet starts to age, they become even more important. Our pets age much faster than we do, and regular physical examinations will help you and your veterinarian detect any abnormalities which may affect your pet's quality of life.
By finding these abnormalities early, it is often possible to make changes in your pet's routine which eliminate or slow the progress of diseases such as heart failure, kidney failure, arthritis pain, dental disease, and many more. Your veterinarian may even advise more frequent physical examinations for your pet as he/she ages.....
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.28-2007

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Hi Everyone...I'm Heather

and here is my Cat ... Sarah

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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

How did a cat take first prize at the bird show?

He just jumped up to the cage, reached in, and took it.

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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Caring For Your Cat's Claws )

Trimming Claws: All cats need their claws trimmed on a regular basis unless they have been declawed, and, in fact, keeping your cats nails trimmed on a regular basis may eliminate the need for declawing. If your cat’s claws start snagging - on fabric or on you -it’s a good indication that they need clipping. A pair of clippers designed especially for cats should be used and are available at pet stores. Never use regular scissors as they can crush and injure your cat’s claw. Since most cats will struggle when you clip their claws, it is wise to wear long sleeves and pants and wait until the cat is sleepy. If your cat is especially reluctant to have its claws clipped, you might need someone to hold it for you, while you do the clipping.
Otherwise, begin by holding your cat in your lap or on the floor between your knees. Make sure there is sufficient lighting and that you are familiar with the way the claws look. Pin the cat to your side with your arm and hold one of its front paws in your hand. Gently press on one toe until the claw pops into full view. Clip it, being careful not to cut into the quick, the slightly pinkish area containing nerves and blood vessels. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. Repeat with the next toe and so on. Don’t forget the dewclaws - found only on the front paws - located right about where humans would have their thumbs.
Declawing: Careful consideration should be given to whether or not you declaw your cat. Declawing is the surgical removal of the claw and the surrounding tissue that it retracts into. Usually, only the front claws are removed, but sometimes the digits are removed as well. Declawing is often the last resort for cats who have become veteran scratchers of furnishings. Most cats can be trained from kittenhood not to scratch the furniture or to scratch a scratching post when they want exercise, butall cats will continue to scratch, with or without claws, as scratching is one way of marking their territory.
Before declawing, you might want to consider soft plastic covers for your cat’s paws. In general, these should be put on by a vet and will last about a month, despite your cat’s efforts to remove them. Used in conjunction with techniques to redirect clawing and scratching, covers for your cat’s paws may serve as an alternative to declawing.
If your cat is consistently destroying your home furnishings and all other efforts have failed, you might want to have it declawed, but first there are a few things of which you should be aware. Declawed cats often compensate with their rear claws. They can still climb well, but their ability to defend themselves will be impaired. Declawed cats should not be allowed outside without supervision. Some declawed cats will become biters when they discover that their claws no longer work. Others may begin to growl.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.27-2007

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Hi Everyone...I'm Elaine M.
and here is my lovely Cat.
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's way of keeping law & order? Claw Enforcement.
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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Dangerous House Plants )

Dangerous House Plants: Although we think of cats as carnivores, in fact many are fond of vegetables and other plant material. Although food preferences vary with individual cats, many will sample a plot of grass outdoors, the leaves of a potted houseplant indoors, or other common items like shoelaces.
Cats confuse their owners by ending grass-grazing with regurgitation or vomiting. The reason for this predictable behavior is unclear, but it has been suggested that our pets eat grass, at least sometimes, in order to stimulate vomiting. Relief from hairball indigestion may be one motive for plant eating in cats. However, not all plant-eating leads to getting "sick", so it is a good idea to consult with your vet if the pattern continues.
Because of this tendency to seek and ingest vegetation, cats may naturally experiment with the taste of houseplants. Such behavior can be undesirable, at best, or dangerous when leaves or other plant parts are toxic.
To keep your cat safe, be sure all plants in your home are safe in case of ingestion, or place them out of reach. Hanging pots, for example, usually lose their appeal even to curious cats. Non-toxic, valued plants can be protected with a small amount of sprayed vinegar or black pepper solution on leaves.
As a gift to those cats that seem determined to eat plants, owners can offer treats of herbicide- and pesticide-free potted grass. Grass seeds or even parakeet seeds can be sprouted in seedling pots and offered occasionally, the empty pot then re-seeded for a new batch. In small amounts, grass can be a welcome treat for any house cat.
Listed here are plants poisonous to cats that must be avoided if there are cats in your home. While in some cases just parts of a plant bark, leaves, seeds, berries, roots, tubers, spouts, green shells might be poisonous, this list rules out the whole plant. If you must have any of them, keep them safely out of reach. Should your feline friend eat part of a poisonous plant, rush the cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you can, take the plant with you for ease of identification.
Plants Poisonous To Cats
• Alfalfa• Almond (Pits of)• Alocasia• Amaryllis• Apple (seeds)• Apricot (Pits of)• Arrowgrass• Avocado• Azalea• Baneberry• Bayonet• Beargrass• Beech• Belladonna• Bird of Paradise• Bittersweet• Black-eyed Susan• Black Locust• Bleeding Heart• Bloodroot• Bluebonnet• Box• Boxwood• Buckeyes• Burning Bush• Buttercup• Cactus• Candelabra• Caladium• Castor Bean• Cherry (pits)• Cherry, wild varieties• Cherry, ground• Cherry, Laurel• Chinaberry• Christmas Rose• Chrysanthemum• Clematis• Coriaria• Cornflower• Corn Plant• Cornstalk Plant• Croton• Corydalis• Crocus, Autumn• Crown of Thorns• Cuban Laurel• Cutleaf Philodendron• Cycads• Cyclamen• Daffodil Daphne• Datura• Deadly Nightshade• Death Camas• Delphinium• Decentrea• Dieffenbachia• Dumb Cane• Easter Lily• Eggplant• Elderberry• Elephant Ear• English Ivy• Euonymus• Evergreen• Ferns• Flax• Four O’Clock• Foxglove• Golden Chain• Golden Glow• Gopher Purge• Hellebore• Hemlock, Poison• Hemlock, Water• Henbane• Holly• Honeysuckle• Horsebeans• Horsebrush• Horse Chestnuts• Hyacinth• Hydrangea• Indian Tobacco• Iris• Iris Ivy• Jack in the Pulpit• Java Beans• Jessamine• Jerusalem Cherry• Jimson Weed• Jonquil• Jungle Trumpets• Lantana• Larkspur• Laurel• Lily• Lily Spider• Lily of the Valley• Locoweed• Lupine• Marigold• Marijuana• Mescal Bean• Mistletoe• Mock Orange• Monkshood• Moonseed• Morning Glory• Mountain Laurel• Mushrooms• Narcissus• Nightshade• Oleander• Peach (pits of)• Pencil Cactus• Peony• Periwinkle• Philodendron• Pimpernel• Poinciana• Poinsettia• Poison Hemlock• Poison Ivy• Poison Oak• Pokeweed• Poppy• Potato Plant• Precatory Bean• Primrose• Privet, Common• Rhododendron• Rhubarb• Ribbon Plant• Rosemary Pea• Rubber Plant• Scotch Broom• Skunk Cabbage• Snowdrops• Snow on the Mountain• Staggerweed• Star of Bethlehem• Sweetpea• Tansy Mustard• Tobacco• Tomato Plant• Tulip• Tung Tree• Virginia Creeper• Water Hemlock• Weeping Fig• Wild Call• Wisteria• Yews --• e.g. Japanese Yew• English Yew• Western Yew• American Yew
If you want to add this cat article to your website, you must include the following author information with the cat article - including the links:

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.26-2007

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Hi Everyone...I'm Shirly K.

and here is my lovely Cat.

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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's favourite song? Three Blind Mice.

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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( About Cat Veterinarians )

Consulting a Veterinarian: Unfortunately, your cat can’t tell you how it feels, but as you become familiar with its normal behavior, appetite, body weight and level of activity, you’ll be able to instantly detect if something is wrong. Significant changes to any of the above serve as a warning sign that your cat is not feeling well. If your cat appears ill, you need to consult a veterinarian immediately.
Finding a Vet: If you’ve just moved to a new town, or have just gotten a cat for the first time, there are various ways to find a good vet in your area. First, ask around. Often you’ll get an excellent referral. Next, call the local humane society and ask the names of any vets who volunteer their time. Call the local breed associations and see who their members use. Or, ask the owners of well-cared-for cats - you’re bound to get some names that way.
Choosing a Vet: Choosing a vet is a lot like choosing a pediatrician. If you’ve never done that before, choose a vet with whom you are comfortable and who will be available to answer your questions. A good vet will be associated with a 24-hour emergency care plan or be able to put you in touch with one in your area. You might ask yourself some of these questions when choosing a vet: Do the animals visiting the office seem nervous, but comfortable? Does the vet specialize in small domestic animals? Does this vet come recommended by people who take good care of their pets? If the answer to these three questions is "yes," you have probably made a good choice.
Going to the Vet: Cats do not, in general, like going to the vet. They become anxious and fearful and do not like riding in cars. Using a pet carrier will help control your cat’s anxiety. It will also help to keep your cat under control in the waiting room at the vet’s office and prevent accidents in the car on the way there. You might want to find a "cats only" vet or a vet that makes house calls. If neither of these is possible, try getting your cat used to the car by taking short, frequent drives and avoiding dogs in the waiting room.
What to Expect on a Standard Visit: On a standard annual visit, you can expect your vet to weigh your cat, and check its heart rate and temperature. They will also check your cat’s teeth for tartar or gum swelling, ears for ear mites and other fungus problems, eyes for normal pupil response and retinal appearance, body for ringworm using a black light, perform standard blood work and check fecal matter for worms, give booster shots for rabies, FeLV, panleukopenia, rhinoco, and whatever other shots may be due.
If you want to add this cat article to your website, you must include the following author information with the cat article - including the links:

Cat Article courtesy of AwesomeCats.com

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