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NewYork...NewYork

What' Going on ?

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I'm a Queen !

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Mom and Baby !

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Little Red !

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Sweet Cuty Cat !

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Flower Pot Cats !

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The Gentle Art of Bathing a Cat
written by Marty Rudolph


The cat should witness no frightening preparations and he is in and out-- so soon being hugged in generous wrappings of dry towels and placed on the floor in a closed room; soon to begin grooming himself. This results in far less mess, less cleanup and a happier cat, I promise you. I hope you will use this with your fine research.

Here are the IMPORTANT KEYS :

- The room is quiet. Running water need not be turned on causing a struggle.
- The water is body temp and the animal isn't startled.
- Use only diluted soap for efficient faster bathing and thorough rinsing!!!
- Have many clean dry towels or blankets unfolded within reach to wrap around the dripping cat immediately upon rinsing, and to continue drying again and again. Don't skimp here--use your good towels and lots of them.
- Purchase a nylon mesh laundry bag with a drawstring top about 20" x 30" in size, to use to contain the cat. He is far safer and not terrified as when he could thrash around. Insert the animal into the bag firmly and carefully, tightening the drawstring above the cat's shoulders only enough to prevent his front legs from getting out. NOTE: become familiar with how to slide the top open and closed, thereby avoiding an undue struggle to remove cat from a wet bag as soon as he is wrapped in drying towels. This entire procedure can be done alone, but an assistant standing by who is not unknown to cat and speaks little, could be a fine help!
- Find big jugs to hold water for rinsing. They must have handles and large openings. Save the ones from bird seed or kitty litter perhaps.
- Don't wash cat's head until he is out of tub, and then use warm washcloths.

1. Secure cat alone in nearby pleasant room.

2. Place a container or waste basket, just large enough to dip the cat into, in one end of the bathtub and fill it deep with tepid water. Stir into the water approximately 1/4 cup of baby-type (no tears) shampoo, mixing well. Fill the remaining bathtub with about 12" of tepid water. Place two 2-gallon big-mouth jugs, or 4 gallon milk type jugs full of tepid water within arms' reach.

3. Stack by bathtub, many unfolded absorbent towels, (use flannel sheets, cotton rug, bathrobe. Have 2-3 washcloths within hands' reach for covering eyes, drying eyes and face washing.

4. When bath is prepared, join cat in the holding room and swiftly and purposely place mesh laundry bag (folded bag back on itself) over bottom half of cat and pull bag up to his shoulders. Carefully tighten drawstring just so feet cannot escape. Your manner and soothing sounds will reassure throughout. Hug cat gently, and proceed to bathroom, closing the room.

5. Holding cat with your two hands on his mid-section, gently lower the bagged cat into soapy water up to neck. Massage smoothly squeezing his entire body to clean rapidly for a minute or so. Lift from soapy water, squeezing water off a bit, and lower into clean water in main body of bathtub. Holding firmly, pull cat gently through water; rinsing cat by massaging all the while. (You may release drain in tub now.) Holding cat under front legs with one hand while letting him "stand" in water, begin to pour jugs of clean water over him getting thoroughly clean and rinsed. When all clean water is poured, grab an extra large towel and while holding cat over tub, wrap cat in it fast. Now you are done and can remove cat from bag while wrapping and drying him with one towel after another. Listen! He will be purring before you expect to hear it.

Source: XMission

Basil's Baby" watercolor © Drew Strouble
http://www.catmandrew.com/

Cat House - Your Ticket

To A Good Night's Sleep

It happens every night, you are woken up by your cat climbing up on your bed and nine, times out of ten, he crawls right up next to you and falls asleep. Sometimes this is okay with you, but most of the time you can't sleep with him there and thus begins another night of tossing and turning. This doesn't have to be you and in fact, there is a pretty simple solution to the problem, just purchase a cat house for your cat.

What is a cat house you're wondering? Well, it is a cylindrical unit with enclosed compartments made out of wood and carpeting. It is designed to provide your cat with a cozy, safe place to take a snooze, which would be a great alternative to your bed. This fixture can be just one level with one compartment if you just have one cat or you can get one that has two, even three or four levels and compartments, providing all the cats in your family with their very own place to get away from it all.

Another multiple cat house option in addition to the one that is tall and has different compartments is one that actually has those different compartments, but sits flat on the floor. So, if you have a lot of cats and they have a hard time jumping, they can just walk right into it without much trouble. This is a nice choice for getting for elderly cats.

If you don't have the room for a cat house in your home, yet still want to give your pet a personal spot to take a snooze, don't worry, you can just purchase him a nice cat bed. Much like a dog bed, it will be made out of some sort of plush padding that is covered in a soft fabric. There are many different versions available from ones that have bumper sides, to others that lie flat on the floor, and you can even get one that looks just like real furniture, but is just scaled down to match your cat's size.

Feel like a cat house or a cat bed might be a good sleeping option for your furry companion? If so, a great way to shop for one is by hitting the Internet, which is just like having a pet store at your finger tips. You can just click through all the sleeping options that you want for your pet in a matter of minutes. Plus, it is also a great way to look into other things for your cat too like cat supplies, food, toys, and other cat furniture like kitty gyms, cat trees, steps, and scratching posts. After you make your purchase, it will be shipped right to you, something that is pretty convenient if you lead a busy life and don't have time drive anywhere.

Okay, now what are you waiting for? Purchase a cat house today so you can enjoy a good night's sleep tomorrow, and the next night, and that night after that, and well, you get the point.


Jennifer Akre, owner of numerous online specialty shops, shares her insight on how to create more pet friendly space in your home by using decorative cat furniture, cozy cat houses and fun cat trees.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_Akre

Give Your Cat A Longer

And Healthier Life

It does not matter what kind of cat you own, there is a few things you should be aware of to better the quality of life for your cat. You need to understand that your cats everyday lifestyle is directly related to his/her overall happiness, behavior and vitality.

Many people (I didn't say you) see cats as the perfect 'low maintenance' companion. Just refill that bowl of kittle, and clean a litter box once a week... done. What many people don't realize is even though their cat can get used to a life of free feeding and couch sitting all day, that lifestyle is opposite what nature intended for this creature.

For that reason it is no surprise most indoor cats in the U.S are overweight and have health problems when they get old. We all usually rather not think of the far future, but if you really care about your pet don't you want it to live long and strong?

In nature, a cat eats mostly protein in the form of meat, a bit of fat and almost no carbohydrates. Imagine for a minute of your cat having to survive in the wild, how active it would be, protecting itself and finding prey. I'm not saying you need to simulate a tigers life for your indoor cat, but just open your eyes to the natural needs of your cat.

To keep your cat healthy and fit for a longer life your cat needs less dry food, less boredom and sitting around, more meat, more action, interaction and attention from their owner. I know not everyone has enough time to play with the cat all day, but just a few minutes a day can make the difference.

For example, make the decision to stop filling up the bowl of dry food and try to have meal times. It's OK if your cats bowl is empty, your cat doesn't NEED to be fed every time it feels like it. You might think your cat knows how much it needs to eat for its own good, but it is just a fact that your cat will eat from boredom just like you!

Once you decide to have meal times for your cat/s, you can easily fit that schedule to yours. For example, give out a meal in the morning before going to work and then again during your own dinner time. It might take a little while for you and your cat to adjust, but doing this will benefit your cat in the following ways:




Your cat will appreciate, anticipate and enjoy the meals more than ever, because it will actually be HUNGRY for it.


Since you are the one giving those meals, your cat will love you more.


Your cat will lose weight and reach old age happier and healthier.


You'll end up spending less money on food (oh, that's your benefit).

These benefits will become the foundation of your cats better life, better health and better relationship with you , IF you go a step further and give the right food during those meal times. This is not hard, just read labels and give your cat more protein. Instead of only dry food, focus more on what kind of meat your cat likes. Find that type of meat product for cats, with minimal moisture and rich in protein. Mix it up for your cat with a bit of kittle or none at all.

Other than meal schedules, interaction with your cat is very important. If you're not home a lot, leave your cat with toys and things to explore. This is a challenge, especially for city apartment cats but why not make your cat happier if you could easily do so. Of course a happier cat means much less behavior problems that usually arouse from boredom and lack of attention.

Something fairly new that I'm doing for interaction time with my cats is clicker training. I know it sounds a bit crazy, like you could train a cat... You'll be surprised! I've already taught both of them to do a few tricks. Anyone could do this, with the right instructions, and this type of interaction really transforms your relationship with your cat.

Cat clicker training is based only on positive reinforcements, so it's pretty much a game for the cat and you'll be amazed how smart your cat really is. Opening up this channel of communication is not hard and could help you build good behavior patterns. After only two weeks of cat clicker training, I noticed both of my cats are much happier. I really feel they are thanking me... it's weird, but amazing.

Come learn more about that and everything else with Sammi and Isla at cat-love-story.com

Thanks for reading,
Eyal.

Sammi and Isla
http://www.cat-love-story.com/ or more on health
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eyal_Barta

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Cat Resource Corner

Cat Obesity

Obesity in cats is a growing concern. In fact, 25 to 30 percent of pet cats seen by veterinarians these days are overweight. The condition seems to be more prevalent today than it was 20 years ago, primarily because of differences in lifestyle and feeding. A large number of cats are exclusively indoor pets who are rarely called upon to defend their territory, stalk their prey or do little more than beg for their next meal.Boredom is also a culprit, and good-tasting cat food is a never-ending temptation to a cat with little else to do. And the higher the fat and calorie content of the food, the greater the risk for obesity.All cats have the potential to become overweight, but the problem appears to be more prevalent in mixed-breed cats. The highest incidence appears in neutered, middle-aged, six-to-eleven-year-old male cats.There are a number of theories why neutered cats are more prone to obesity than intact ones. The removal of reproductive organs alters the hormonal balance and causes metabolic changes. Also, cats are usually neutered in late kittenhood or early adulthooda time when energy requirements are declining but owners may fail to make appropriate dietary adjustments. Finally, neutering tends to curb certain cat behaviors, such as roaming and fighting, resulting in yet another decline in activity. In fact, surveys of overweight cats show they tend to be very inactive and sleep up to 18 hours a day.What are the dangers of obesity? Preliminary studies indicate that overweight cats are more likely to develop diabetes mellitus, skin problems, lameness due to arthritis and feline hepatic lipidosis (an accumulation of fat cells that impairs liver function).How do I diagnose an obese cat?Obesity is typically defined as 20 to 25 percent over the cats ideal body weight (for example, an extra 2.5 pounds may not sound like much, but it can be an enormous burden to a cat whose ideal weight is 10 pounds). To determine whether your cat is obese, you first have to determine your cats ideal body condition. The best method is to look at his profile and feel his body.Overfed: Ribs are difficult to feel. Waist and abdominal tuck is absent or barely visible.Underfed: Ribs are easily felt and pelvic bones may be prominent. Obvious waist and abdominal tuck.Ideal: You should be able to feel your cats ribs, but not see them. The view from above should reveal an hourglass figure. The cat has a slight indentation at the waist beginning at the back of the ribs to just before the hips. In profile, the cat should have a slight tummy tuck beginning just behind the last ribs and going up into the hind legs.What you can do about feline obesityAlways consult your veterinarian before placing your cat on a diet. Weight loss should be done slowly and with great care, or you could be putting your cats health in jeopardy.Try eliminating treats and slightly reducing the amount of your cats regular food. Then, divide his new, reduced daily food allotment into four or five small meals to keep him from feeling deprived. Multiple small meals also tend to increase his metabolic rate, which can help your tubby tabby slim down. Switching your cat to a lower-calorie, lower-fat diet is another option.If you want to add this cat article to your website, you must include the following author information with the cat article - including the links:

Cat Article courtesy of AwesomeCats.com

Article Proposed by... Pictures-of-Cats...Lovers

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7 Easy Home Pet Remedies

Anyone Can Do For A Dog Or Cat

Submitted By: Keisha Seaton


This article will help you to find simple home pet remedies. These home pet remedies can be used either for dogs or cats, unless otherwise stated.

Anemia: To help get rid of anemia in your pet increase the amount of iron, and vitamin B intake. A recommended serving of liver in the amounts of an ounce for cats, two ounces for small dogs, three ounces for medium dogs, and four ounces for larger dogs.

Arthritis: First things first, if your pet is overweight, then you will need to get him/her on a weight loss plan. Loosing weight will take the pressure off of those painful joints. Several 20 minute walks a day can be very helpful as well. Avoid having your pet sleep outside when it is cold. The cold air is not helping as it inflames the joints, and triggers the arthritis. Finally a moist heating pad around the joints can be applied for about 20 minutes twice a day.

Bad Breath: If your pet has bad breath it is sign of plaque. Simply brushing your pets' teeth will help reduce the bad breath odor, and help to eliminate the plaque. Raw carrots have been known to help with the cause of bad breaths in pets as well. To prevent bad breath try giving them a rope to play with, don't feed can foods, and as bad as it is try not to give them table scraps.

Diarrhea: One of the easiest home pet remedies for diarrhea is to make sure that your pet is well hydrated. Adding Gatorade to their water will also help the diarrhea. The Gatorade will help them to stay hydrated, and retain some electrolytes. It is best to stop regular routine feedings, when you are aware of this problem. If the diarrhea does not stop with this basic home remedy please seek professional advice from your veterinarian, as it could be a more serious problem.

Fever: Warning - If your pet has had a fever more than 24 hours please consult your veterinarian. A fever that cannot be broken is a sign that something is severely wrong with your pet. If you have just discovered that your beloved pet has a fever, then use a cool compress on their belly. If that is not possible, a cool bath will also help. Normal temperatures for dogs and cats run usually from 1000.5 to 102.5 anything over that is considered a fever.

Fleas: One of the best home pet remedies for fleas is to mix in some Brewer's Yeast. In addition to the yeast adding about 3 cloves of garlic cut up will keep the fleas away from your pet.

Smelly Kitty Litter: To keep your kitty litter smelling nice, and fresh, use about 2 parts baby powder to one part baking soda in your kitty litter.

Hope you have enjoyed this article about home pet remedies. Please note that these home pet remedies are not professional veterinarian advice. If serious problems persist with your pet please seek the care of a trusted veterinarian.


About the Author:

If you enjoyed this home pet remedy article please do not leave until you have claimed your free ecourse "7 Secrets To Healing Your Pet" & FREE e-book, "Healing Your Pets At Home"
http://www.my-articles.com/recommends/home_pet_remedy.html

For more free-reprint articles by Keisha Seaton please visit:
http://www.isnare.com/?s=author&a=Keisha+Seaton

Make your Home Cat Friendly

10 Things to do to make your home cat friendly

Written by Dr.Laxmi Iyer
1.
No smoking!Make your home a no smoking zone. This is vital for you and your cat's health. Recent research indicates that your pets are like canaries in a coal mine. When they fall ill with cancer, then it's a warning sign to tell you that your home environment is not right.
Cigarette smoke is a big killer. Watch out! A simple thing as making sure that no one in the family smokes can do wonders to your cat's health and of course to the health of your family too. There are more than 3000 cancer causing chemicals in cigarette smoke! Be careful!
2.
Fix the windows and the upholsteryMake sure that there are no broken window panes, broken grills, sharp edges and sharp nails on the window panes etc. and other parts of the house. That can hurt your cats. When your cats rush in and out through the windows, the chances of them injuring themselves is very high.Worn out upholstery can be very dangerous if your cats are still in their kitten days. Kittens until the age of up to 2-3 months have the habit of experimenting with non food materials. They may swallow sand, paper, strings, beads etc. Take care!
3.
Litter box care The litter box should be placed in a quiet, well ventilated private place of the home. It should be kept clean and emptied frequently. Try to make sure that you have at least one litter box more than the number of cats in your home.
4.
Stay cool! Get some sun!Sunshine warms, comforts and heals. Of course, sunshine does not mean leaving your cats out in the terrace in the blazing hot, afternoon sun. It means letting the sun rays warm up your room, not heat it up like a geyser. You do know how much cats love basking in the sun. Make sure you create a special corner for yourself and your cat in the sunniest part of your house.
In case, you live in a place where there's not too much sun, then there's still a way to go about having something like the feel of the sun. Have central heating, a good fireplace and a huge glass windows all over the house to let some light and warmth inside.
5.
Do a quick check on your plant list for safetyMake sure that you have no plants that are poisonous for your cats. Many cats love chewing grass and get a high with catnip. They are often adventurous and love trying out the taste of new plants. Take care to make sure that you don't buy ornamental plants which can be toxic to your cat if eaten.
6.
Insecticides hurt cats too! Don't use organo-chlorine insecticides. That means avoid using any compounds which have active ingredients written like lindane, gamma BHC etc. These compounds are especially dangerous as they are easily absorbed and stored in the body of both animals and humans for decades.An effective way to keep insects away is to use dried tobacco leaves, neem oil and powder and boric acid. Growing plants like chrysanthemum can also help! Having wire gauze on all the windows of the home is another way to keep the home insect free.
7.
Watch out for Peeled off Plaster and PaintMake sure that the plaster is not peeling off in any part of your house. Peeling plaster, paint and wall paper may mean an open invitation to your cat to try out the taste!Cats are naturally curious creatures. And if your cat happens to be a chronic woolsucker then you need to be doubly careful, because all that peeling paint, crumbs of wall paper and plaster are going to be swallowed.
8.
Avoid using room freshenersRoom fresheners may be a great way to get the room freshened up but it can also cause your cat to have a runny nose, wheezing, cough and a bad bout of asthma. Cats are very sensitive to fragrances. Not everything used in conventional room fresheners are all that safe. In susceptible cats - allergies and respiratory infections may come as a free gift!A safe way to freshen up the room is to use a pot-pourri of dried orange peel, rose petals, dried flowers and sandalwood.
9.
Use cat friendly doorsCat friendly doors are those that have been designed to let your cat enter and leave rooms easily. Use your imagination and check out with some good architects and interior designers on how to go about getting those doors, hinges and door knobs in place.
10.
Keep your house cleanIt is essential to vacuum the interiors regularly. A simple thing...but needs to be done regularly. It's amazing what a difference regular cleaning can do to the dust quotient in the home.

Source: Pure Cat Articles

Is Your Cat TOO Fat?

Tips to Help You Know!‏

They phrase "fat cat" has been around for as long as there have been cats. Generally it means wealthy and living the high life. However if your cat is fat, that wealthy life may be shortened. Being a fat cat is not a good thing!Diet and nutritional status are crucial to your cat's general health. Unfortunately, many pets are overweight - much like their owners. And - like their owners - pets are not as healthy when they are carrying too much weight. Chubby kitties often suffer from arthritis, heart disease and liver problems. If you are concerned that your pet is overweight we have listed some ways that you can evaluate your pet's body condition.* Body fat. Stand behind your cat and place your thumbs on the spine midway down the back. Fan out your fingers and spread them over the ribs. With your thumbs lightly pressing on the spine and fingers on the ribs, slide your hands gently up and down.For normal cats, you should feel a thin layer of fat. You should feel the ribs, although you won't readily see them. If your cat is overweight, you will not be able to feel the ribs, and the tissue over the ribs may feel smooth and wavy.* Appearance. Normal cats have an hourglass appearance. Fat cats have an abdomen protruding from the sides and a noticeable paunch. There may be enlarged fatty areas on either side of the tail base and over the hips. There may also be a fatty area on the neck and front of the chest. When obese cats walk, they usually have a classic waddle.If you feel that your cat is overweight, contact your veterinarian. Tests may need to be performed to eliminate underlying disease as a cause of the obesity. In addition, your veterinarian can help you improve your cat's body condition and overall health.Until next time...

Source: Pet Place

Arthritis

The most common signs of arthritis and joint disease in cats include stiffness, limping, or favoring a limb --particularly after sleep or resting, reluctance to jump or even climb stairs, and noticeable pain.
As in dogs, there are many causes of arthritis and joint disease in cats. These include trauma, infections, immune system disorders and developmental disorders such as hip dysplasia (yes, cats can get hip dysplasia).
In the following article we will discuss some of these causes or conditions which are more common or unique to cats. Before you read on, you may want to check out the articles Joint Anatomy and Veterinary Procedures Used to Diagnose Joint Disease for some background information. Information on how to manage cats with arthritis and other joint problems, including the use of Glucosamine and Chondroitin is discussed in Treatment of Osteoarthritis in Cats.
Progressive polyarthritis
Feline progressive polyarthritis, as the name suggests, affects multiple joints in a cat and worsens over time. There are generally two types of this disease.
In the first type of progressive polyarthritis, the cartilage is eroded from the ends of the bones making up the joint and bony spurs and bone thickening occur in bone adjacent to the joint. These kinds of changes are similar to those seen in hip dysplasia and other degenerative joint disease. The most commonly affected joints are those of the feet, the carpus (wrist) and hock.
In the second type of progressive polyarthritis, the erosion of the cartilage is severe such that the bone under the cartilage is exposed which causes severe pain. This is similar to rheumatoid arthritis in dogs and people.
Regardless of type, progressive polyarthritis in cats generally affects young and middle-aged male cats (neutering appears to make no difference). The cats show a reluctance to walk, the joints are swollen, the range of motion is reduced, and in some cases the cats experience recurring episodes of fever, loss of appetite and swollen lymph nodes.
Even with strong combinations of pain relievers, anti-inflammatories such as prednisone, and more potent medications, there is no cure for either type of progressive polyarthritis.
Arthritis caused by calicivirus infection
Calicivirus is a virus that is most well-known for the respiratory disease (usually runny eyes and nose) it causes. Calicivirus is often included in the distemper-rhinotracheitis-chlamydia vaccine which is given to kittens and cats.
In addition to respiratory disease, calicivirus can cause inflammation in the joints which results in lameness. This condition has been associated with both the field strain (the strain which generally causes disease) and, rarely, the vaccine strain. Respiratory symptoms may or may not be present along with the lameness. The cats with calicivirus-associated lameness often develop a fever and may be reluctant to eat.
It is generally a self-limiting disease, which means it usually resolves on its own. Supportive therapy such as pain relievers and anti-inflammatory medication is sometimes given. The vast majority of cats fully recover.
Diabetes mellitus
Rarely, cats with diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes) develop an unusual gait in which the hocks touch the ground when the cat walks. This is thought to be related to a disorder of the nerves, but can be mistaken for a joint problem.
Bacterial arthritis
In cats, joints most often become infected as a result of bite wounds. The joint becomes swollen, painful, warm to the touch, and the cat will often not want to bear any weight on the affected leg. The cat often has a fever and will not eat. At times the infection can spread from the joint to the bone (bone infection is termed "osteomyelitis").
Treatment involves draining the infected joint fluid from the joint, flushing the joint, and placing the cat on antibiotics. Because bacterial infections of the joint can rapidly produce permanent injury to the joint, infectious arthritis must be treated as soon as it is detected.
Other joint diseases
Several other joint conditions which are more common in dogs do occur rarely in cats. These include degenerative joint disease (osteoarthritis), ruptured anterior cruciate ligament , luxating patella, hip dysplasia, (intervertebral) disc disease, and hyperparathyroidism.Article courtesy of Drs. Foster & Smith's

Source. PetEducation.com

Cats As Individuals

Written by Anne Moss

In an interview to a local newspaper, I was once asked what was the one thing I would define cat behavior by. My reply was "individuality". Each cat has his or her own particular characteristics and peculiarities.
As a cat behaviorist, the issue of cat individuality was always prominent in my mind. Whatever the "rules" for cats are, there will always be the odd cat that will break the rules and display a different behavior pattern. That said, when discussing feline individuality, it is also crucial to avoid thinking of cats as "little humans". They are certainly not that. They are cats, with their own unique abilities and limitations. The individuality comes across in a multitude of characteristics that are all cat.
Taking into account the amazing diversity of behavioural patterns in cats, researching and classifying them into various types is a monumental task. Scientists are trying to do just that, by observing feline behavior and looking into parameters such as activity levels, playfulness, hostility towards people, aggressive behavior in general, levels of vocalization and sociability. Researchers use observations done in behavioral laboratories and feral cat colonies. Some researchers even turn to cat owners, collecting data using questionnaires and interviews.
One question that researchers have been wondering about is to what extent personality types are genetically inherited. In fact, with separate lines of purebred cats, and well documented ones at that, researching separate genetic groups is relatively easy. So far, findings do support the notion that purebred cats tend to display certain behavioral traits more than others. Persian cats have been shown to be more docile, while Siamese are more active. While individuality still rules, and you can certainly find active Persian cats and sleepy Siamese, researchers do believe that genetics plays a strong roll in the shaping of the individual cat's personality.
So, how does this discussion help us as cat owners? Hopefully, the understanding that our cat truly is a unique individual in its own right. It should also help us accept our cat as it is and not try to fight its innate behavioral tendencies.
We tend to expect things from our cats, hoping that they will conform to some kind of cat image that we have in our minds. But it doesn't always happen this way. You may have been dreaming of an active, playful feline rascal, but your cat may turn out to be a couch potato; or, perhaps, you were hoping for a very friendly kitty, the kind that is always rubbing against your legs, but instead your cat is aloof and solitary by nature.
You need to accept your cat for what she or he is. Trying to fix behavior problems is one thing. Trying to make a cat change its nature to suit our own expectations, is a totally different thing that will stress your cat and could, in itself, lead to behavioral problems.
Source: The Cat Site

Do you have a healthy cat?

Are you sure? What do you look for to be certain that your cat is as healthy as he can be? A healthy cat can be described as having bright shiny eyes, a healthy shiny hair coat, good appetite, is able to maintain an ideal body weight, is playful and generally seems "happy".However, cats can acquire a variety of diseases and conditions and the symptoms may not be extremely obvious. Cats are very good at hiding their illness just by their nature of survival. They want to appear healthy so they are less vulnerable to predators. So take a look at our list of signs to look out for in your cat. This way you can be certain that your cat is healthy!Common signs of illness include:* Lack of appetite* Less active* Weakness* Lethargy* Weight loss* Increased water consumption* Not grooming* Bad breath* Inappropriate elimination* Sleeping more* Less involved in social interaction with you or your other cats* Drooling* Vomiting* Difficulty breathing* Diarrhea* Coughing* Bloody urineA healthy cat has a good appetite and normal urinations and normal soft form bowel movements. When you run your hand across her or his body, you should feel muscles and healthy skin - not boney protuberances.Is your cat healthy? If you are not sure or you cat has some of the above symptoms, play it safe and have him or her checked out by your veterinarian.

Source: The Pet Place

10 Signs that Your Cat is Sick‏

Your cat cannot explain his symptoms, so it's the responsibility of you and your veterinarian to keep him healthy. Cats are very good at hiding their illness so it is up to you to observe your cat for abnormalities. If you know your cat very well and also understand what to look for, recognizing illness early might save her life.Nobody wants to run to the vet over every little thing, but if you have some idea what symptoms might mean trouble, you'll know when to take your cat in just to be sure.Common indications of a "sick pet" include: lethargy, disorientation, weakness, weight loss, seizure, lack of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, unproductive retching, straining to urinate, bloody urine, difficulty or inability to walk, bleeding, pale mucous membranes, difficulty breathing and persistent cough. You know your pet best and can often notice subtle early warning signs that someone else may not detect. If you observe any of the mentioned symptoms or other signs that concern you, call your veterinary hospital. The safest approach would be to have your pet examined.Once your pet is at the hospital, your veterinarian may ask additional questions to help localize or diagnose the problem.

Source: Pet Place

Breaking up Cat Fights

Written by Mary Anne Miller

In a mulit-cat household, skirmishes tend to erupt. One cat establishes himself as the Alpha cat. The Alpha cat is the cat that automatically seeks the highest spot in the house, demands to be fed first and will at times spray his mark (urine) on the home.
As the other cats grow and mature, their own alpha tendencies come into play. Gradually they challenge the alpha attempting to take over. The Alpha cat will engage any other cat that challenges even kittens. Kittens learn early from mom cat and littermates how to wrestle and roll together, rabbit -kicking each other as instinct kicks into gear and the survival mode engages.
You should never step in between two cats that are fighting. They are not focused on you. Their stress pheromones are at maximum level. You stand a good chance of getting scratched or bit. Even after the cats separate, you should leave them alone for a few hours. Never pick up a cat that has been fighting!
Use a broom to guide one cat into a room, and shut the door. Go in later; ignoring the cat leaving food, water and litter pan. Then leave, because your cat is still in the moment of the battle fully aroused and angry. You will know it is safe to approach your cat once he begins to start grooming or eating.
Here are some tips to stop cat fights:
Spay and neuter! Spaying and neutering goes a long way to stopping aggression.
Keep claws trimmed.
Don’t have to many cats. Cats need their individual space. If you have multiple cats, be sure you have places where these cats can get away from the others.
Startle them out of their behavior by taking a heavy blanket and tossing it over them.
Use a wooden kitchen chair and gently set it between the two cats without hurting the cats. This takes patience and a gentle touch. But it will startle the two cats and they will back away. Use a broom to guide one cat into another room for a break. Remember to close the door, isolating the cat temporarily.
Turn on the vacuum cleaner.
Spray bottles do not work to stop fighting cats. The cats are so engrossed in their battle, that a tiny stream of water will not even bother them.
Yelling and screaming to break up a cat fight is not recommended. Cats react to our stress level. If you are upset and anxious, making a lot of noise, look for the cat fight to accelerate not diminish. Staying calm tends to work the best.
That can of compressed air by your computer? Spray it near the fighting cats, but NOT at them.
Most battles between cats are mock battles. You can tell the mock battles from the real conflicts by learning about the body language of cats. Your key points to watch are the tail, the ears and the eyes and where the body is in relation to the ground. Understanding the true body language of cats goes a long way toward knowing when cats are playing and when they are fighting.

Source: The Cat Site

How to Discourage Your Cat

from Jumping on Counters

Written by Anne Moss

If you have been reading a bit about feline behavior, then you should know by now that cats and discipline don't mix; in other words, you should never punish your cat. Cats are not dogs and you simply can't take your cat to obedience class… That said, sometimes you need to lay down some rules in the house and get an educational point across to your cat. While I still hold that punishment, in the human ethical and moral sense of the word, does not work with cats, I wish to show you how to employ behavioral techniques based on negative reinforcement to teach your cat to stay away from certain places. This article will teach you how to discourage your cat from jumping on kitchen counters and any other high surfaces.
Before you even begin teaching your cat to stay away from certain places, let's look at the causes for this type of behavior. Cats require a sufficient amount of living space, including enough vertical space. Before restricting your cat from accessing some areas, make sure that your kitty has plenty of roaming and climbing space within your home. Invest in cat trees, cat gyms and designated cat shelves. This stage is crucial! Not allowing your cat almost any climbing space will result in a stressed and frustrated kitty and even more behavioral issues down the road.
Once you've made sure that your cat has enough space (vertical space included), it's time to learn how to teach your cat right from wrong and "explain" to her which surfaces are off-limits. Since we are trying to prevent a certain type of behavior, rather than encourage one, we'll have to use Negative Reinforcement. We are trying to create a certain connection in the cat's mind, associating the type of behavior which we're trying to prevent with a negative outcome. Before I review the various methods for achieving this, there are three principles to keep in mind whenever attempting any kind of negative reinforcement with your cat –
Keep the human out of the loop - We want to make sure that the cat associates the negative result directly with the action we want to prevent – never with you, the cat owner.
Keep the reinforcement consistent – This is true of any behavioral learning process and is crucial when it comes to negative reinforcement. It means the cat has to receive a negative reaction every single time it attempts the behavior which we wish to discourage.
Keep stress levels down – Remember that cats are individuals and may have different reactions to sudden sounds, or any other type of sensory stimulation you may opt to use. You aim at making the unwanted behavior result in something unpleasant, but make sure it's not too frightening and doesn't cause your cat unnecessary stress.
So, now that we know our principles, let's review the commonly used negative reinforcement techniques and see which ones are best suitable for you and your cat.
The Water Squirter/Can Shaking
This is probably one of the best-known techniques of negative reinforcement. The idea here is for the cat owner to always be on guard, ready with a squirt bottle, an empty soda can with some coins in it, or even a compressed air can. As soon as the cat performs the forbidden act, you're supposed to apply the instrument of choice and either spray the cat with some water (never directly on its face), or simply "blow the horn" and create some loud sudden noise, hopefully without kitty seeing it was you who operated the nasty thing.
While this method can be very effective with some cats, I usually don't recommend using it, for several reasons. First, it could possibly associate you, the cat owner, with the punishment. Ideally, anyone using this method should try to attract as little attention to herself or himself as possible, and make the squirt bottle or "noise can" as disassociated from themselves as possible. In reality, this is extremely difficult to achieve, as most owners project their own nervousness and agitation into the process. Secondly, in terms of consistency, this method is far from perfect. It's difficult to be on the alert at all times, or even to be around at all times, and you end up with having a non-consistent pattern. Thirdly, and not less important, the water spray and loud noises can be too stressful for some cats.

Source: TheCat Site

Purrs, chirps, hisses and snarls…

What exactly is your cat trying to tell you?

A stray tabby gives birth to a litter of three kittens under the lilac bush in a backyard. As she nurses them, she purrs; as they suckle, the kittens purr, too. When the queen shifts her weight to try to find a more comfortable nursing position, one of the kittens lets out a distress call, indicating he's trapped under his mother's weight. She readjusts herself, and the purring party continues. One morning, the mother cat decides to move her litter to a safer spot. She deposits the first one inside the garden shed, and goes to retrieve the next one. Detecting the absence of his mother via his sense of smell, the kitten in the shed lets out a loud distress call, distinctly meant to reunite mothers and wayward kittens.As the kittens mature, the queen spends more time away from the nest, hunting for prey to ensure enough milk for her growing crew. Each time she returns, she gives out a "burp" to her kittens. When the kittens enter the weaning stage, the queen brings prey home to them, calling them over to it with a chirp. The kittens also begin to make chirping noises in anticipation for what they are about to receive. However, one night's dinner is interrupted when Mom lets out a long, low-pitched grow. The kittens scatter and retreat to safety inside the shed before the owl overhead can snatch one for his own evening meal.
As independent hunters, cats have limited need for an extensive vocal repertory. Cat-to-cat vocalizations are generally limited to communicating with one's kittens, one's sexual partners and one's potential enemies. There is also an array of vocalizations used by our furry friends when they attempt to communicate with us.
By changing volume, intensity and number of repetitions of the vocalizations and backing them up with expressive body language and olfactory signaling, cats ensure their messages are received and that their needs are met.
Purring 101The purr is the most common sound issued by cats—and yet one of the least understood. Kittens just a few hours old begin purring as they knead their mother’s chest and nurse. The purr sound is made both on the inhale and the exhale, with an instantaneous break between breaths. Built-up pressure created by the opening and closing of the glottis results in a sudden separation of the vocal folds, creating the purr. While purring is often heard when the cat seems content, those familiar with handling cats in pain or near death know that they also purr when under duress, the reason for which is yet unknown.
The Meaning of MeowThe second most common vocalization is the meow. Rarely heard between cats, this vocalization seems tailor-made for communication between cats and humans. Early on, cats notice that meowing brings attention, contact, food and play from their human companions. Some behaviorists suggest that certain cats seem to alter their meows to suit different purposes, and that some guardians can differentiate between, say, the “I’m Hungry!” meow” from the "Let Me Out!" meow.
The meow is the most often used of the vowel patterns—vocalizations produced with the mouth first open and then gradually closing. - The sound cats make when highly aroused by the sight of prey is called chirping. - When a cat is frustrated (such as when an indoor cat finds he is unable to get to the birds at the feeder), you may hear him chatter. - When a neonate kitten is cold, isolated from his mother or trapped, he issues a distress call—also sometimes called an anger wail. As the kitten matures, the distress call is used when play is too rough or the cat finds something else to protest.
A Hiss Is Just a Hiss?All threat vocalizations are produced with the mouth held open. These sounds mirror the cat's intense emotional state. A hiss is uttered when a cat is surprised by an enemy. A high-pitched shriek or scream is expressed when the cat is in pain or fearful and aggressive. Snarling is often heard when two toms are in the midst of a fight over territory or female attention. And a long, low-pitched growl warns of danger.

Source: ASPCA

Feline panleukopenia

Q: What is Feline Panleukopenia?A: Feline Panleukopenia (FP) is a highly contagious viral disease of cats caused by the feline parvovirus. Over the years FP has been known by a variety of names including feline distemper, infectious enteritis, cat fever and cat typhoid. Feline distemper should not be confused with canine distemper. Though sharing the same name, they are different diseases caused by different viruses; neither of the viruses is transmissible to man. FP virus kills rapidly dividing body cells. This cell loss makes the cat more susceptible to other complications and bacterial infections.Q: How Can You Tell if a Cat Has FP?A: The signs of FP are variable and can mimic other disorders. Many owners may even believe that their cat has been poisoned or has swallowed a foreign object.The first signs an owner might notice are generalized depression, loss of appetite, high fever, lethargy, vomiting, severe diarrhea, dehydration or hanging over the water dish. Normally, the sickness may go on for three or four days after the first elevation of body temperature. Fever will fluctuate during the illness in some cats and abruptly fall to subnormal levels shortly before death.Q: How Do Cats Become Infected With The FP Virus?A: Infection occurs when cats come in contact with the blood, urine, fecal material, nasal secretions, and even fleas of infected cats. Pregnant females that contract the disease, even in its mildest form, may give birth to kittens with severe brain damage. In most cases, recovered cats do not transmit the infection.A cat can become infected without ever coming in direct contact with an infected cat. Bedding, cages, food dishes and the hands or clothing of handlers may harbor and transmit the virus.The FP virus is very stable and resistant to many disinfectants. It may remain infectious at room temperature for as long as one year.Q: Which Cats Are Susceptible to The Virus?A: While cats of any age may be infected, young kittens, sick cats and indoor cats that have not been vaccinated are most susceptible. Young cats are much more likely than adults to become ill when infected with FP virus. Kittens less than 16 weeks of age may die at a rate of about 75%, whereas adult cats may show no signs of disease at all. In the past, FP was a leading cause of death in cats. Today, FP is an uncommon disease in large part to the use of highly effective vaccines.Urban areas are most likely to see outbreaks of FP during the warmer months. The virus has appeared in all parts of the United States and most countries of the world. Kennels, pet shops, humane shelters, and other areas where groups of cats are quartered appear to be the main reservoirs of FP today.Q:How is FP Treated?A: The prognosis for infected kittens less than eight weeks old is poor. Older cats have a greater chance of survival if adequate treatment is provided early in the course of the disease. Treatment is limited to supportive therapy to help the patient gain and retain sufficient strength to combat the virus with its own immune system. There are no medications capable of killing the virus; strict isolation is essential. The veterinarian will attempt to combat dehydration, provide nutrients, and prevent secondary infection with antibiotics. If the cat survives for 48 hours, its chances for recovery are much better. The area where the cat is kept should be warm, free of drafts, and very clean. Plenty of "tender loving care" is very important. Cats may lose the will to live, so frequent petting, hand feeding, and good nursing care by the owner are essential.Other cats that may have been in close association with the infected animal should be carefully examined.Q: What About Prevention & Protection?A: FP is controlled in several ways. Cats that survive a natural infection develop sufficient active immunity to protect them for the rest of their lives. Mild cases may go unnoticed and also produce immunity. It is also possible for kittens to receive immunity through the transfer of antibody via the colostrum, the first milk produced by the mother. This passive immunity is temporary; its duration of effect varies in proportion to the level of antibody in the mother's body. Rarely is it effective in kittens older than 12 weeks.Vaccines offer the safest protection. Most vaccines are made from live viruses treated to destroy their ability to cause disease. They stimulate the cat's body to produce protective antibodies to prevent infection by natural disease-causing viruses. The vaccines are effective but are preventive, not curative. They must be administered before the cat is exposed and infected. Most young kittens receive their first vaccination between six and eight weeks of age and with follow-up vaccines given until the kitten is more than 12 weeks of age. Specific vaccination schedules vary dependent on many factors, such as the disease incidence in the area, age and health of cat. The pet owner should consult a veterinarian for advice on the correct schedule for each cat.And Now A Note On Your Pet's General Good HealthA healthy pet is a happy companion. Your pet's daily well being requires regular care and close attention to any hint of ill health. The American Veterinary Medical Association suggests that you consult your veterinarian if your pet shows any of the following signs:Abnormal discharges from the nose, eyes or other body openings.Abnormal behavior, such as sudden viciousness or excessive sleepiness.Abnormal lumps, limping or difficulty getting up or lying down.Loss of appetite, marked weight loss or gain or excessive water consumption.Difficult, abnormal or uncontrolled waste elimination.Excessive head shaking, scratching, and licking or biting any part of the body.Dandruff, loss of hair, open sores or a ragged or dull coat.Foul breath or excessive tartar deposits on teeth.

Source: The American Veterinary Medical Association

Playtime Aggression

Owners of new kittens can be easily identified all too often – all you have to do is look at their hands. Kittens are notorious for attacking hands during playtime, and those tiny teeth and claws can and do leave marks on delicate human skin.
Some owners take pleasure in this form of play, at least while the kitten is young and the game is still relatively painless. As kitty grows, in a matter of weeks, many owners find that the cute game is becoming too painful. It's time to teach the kitten to stop…
It should be stated at this point, that as with any behavior trait, consistency is the key. Therefore, you would be advised to avoid any aggressive interaction between your hands and your kitten, as young as she may be. It may look cute now, but soon enough it will get nasty and you'll have a bad habit to deal with.
The Reasons for Feline Playtime Aggression
Your kitten is not being "bad". When playing, all young mammals imitate some form of adult behavior that will be useful for them as they grow up. With kittens it is either hunting or fighting. Watch a litter of kittens tumble around on the rug and you will see the same type of playful aggression displayed between them. It is their way to practice hunting and fighting routines which nature intended them to use as adult cats.
Clearly, there is nothing wrong with aggressive play itself. The problem begins when the target is delicate human hands. The solution lies with redirecting the aggression to more suitable targets.
Adding a Playmate for Your Kitten
Another kitten can make the perfect target, or rather partner, for aggressive play. Protected by their furry coat, kittens seem to know their own boundaries and thresholds and there is usually no need to intervene in their aggressive play.
Obviously, the decision to take in a second kitten is more complex than that. You are not getting a toy for your kitten, but rather committing yourself to taking care of another feline, for decades to come. However, if you can provide a home for another kitten, remember that in terms of kitten behavior, raising two kittens is actually easier than raising one. They keep each other occupied and make the best playmates for any kind of kitty play, aggressive types included.
Redirecting Playtime Aggression to a Toy
A cat toy makes a perfect outlet for all that pent-up playful aggression. Use fish-rod like toys to initiate interactive play sessions with your kitten. This is a great way to interact with your cat while keeping your hands out of reach.
Use a variety of toys, whether bought or homemade, but make sure that they create enough distance between kitty and your hands. Rotate the toys and keep them out of reach when you are not playing with your kitten. This will keep them fresh and enticing when you do bring them out (and it may prevent your kitten from getting entangled in any strings while you're away).
How to Release Your Hands
Your fingers are indeed tempting. With a vibrant kitten, or even a cat, it's sometimes too easy to find your hand held tight by teeth and claws. Often, they will not be penetrating the skin, but painfully close to that point. Your cat is likely to be extremely excited at this point and hold tight, not letting go of his coveted prize.
Here's what you should NOT do:
Do not try to pull your hand away by force. When prey tries to escape, a feline's instinctive response is to tighten its hold. You could end up with painful scratches and even bites.
Do not shout or yell at your cat. They are not thinking clearly at this point, and you may aggravate the situation and turn this into fear induced aggressive behavior.
Never ever hit your cat. Not in this situation or any other. If you do, you will end up with an even more aggressive cat, and a stressful episode for both cat and owner. Next time, your cat is even more likely to bite and scratch - this time out of fear as well.
Here's what you should do. Relax the hand that is held by the cat's teeth and claws. Stay calm and avoid direct eye contact with your cat. With your other hand try to grab a toy or some other object and distract your cat's attention with it. If possible, make some playing moves with it, in an attempt to make the cat let go of your hand and move on to chase its "new prey".
If you are unable to reach any suitable object, use your free hand to create a diversion. Tap on something, or make some scratching noises on some fabric. Make the cat lose interest in its "current prey" (your caught up hand) and focus on the new attraction.
Wait for your cat to at least loosen its grip on your hand, preferably let go of it entirely. Once you are sure you can remove your hand, move it out of reach in a swift movement.
Break away from your cat at this point and allow for some cooling off time before you engage in any form of play again.
Be Consistent
Do not allow playful aggression in any form. Whenever your kitten directs her aggression towards you, be it your hands, ankles, or any other body part, use the method described above to break away. Do not allow aggression play when your hands or feet are under the covers either.
Remember to provide your kitten with alternatives – either by bringing in a second cat into your home, or by using cat toys. Keep in mind that this is natural behavior for kittens and young cats. They are more than likely to outgrow this phase at some point. Handle this correctly, without ever shouting at or punishing your cat and you should be able to make it across kittenhood with your skin intact.

Source: The Cat Site

Pet Insurance Helps Misty Live a Longer Life‏

As your cat gets older, you may worry more about her health. Maybe you've had more than a dozen wonderful years with her, but you really hope to share your life with her for as long as possible. Getting the best possible care for her can help.I often recommend that people look into pet insurance early on in their cat's lives. It might not seem like that big of a deal while your cat is young and healthy, but having pet insurance before any illnesses arise that can be considered pre-existing can really make a difference. Pet insurance could help your best feline pal stay in the family for years to come, without you ever having to worry about the money it might cost you to go to the vet.I just read a story from Julie Marshall in Wilmington, Delaware about her cat Mitsy and how glad she was to have pet insurance. Mitsy had lived fourteen years without any major health problems, but Julie had always had a pet insurance policy on her. Mitsy still seemed in great health, every now and then getting a burst of energy and tearing through the house like a kitten. Julie did notice that she seemed to be losing a little bit of weight, but thought that losing a pound or so wouldn't hurt her. She seemed to be eating and drinking just fine.However, Mitsy seemed to keep losing weight and Julie became a little worried. So she took her to the vet. During the evaluation, Julie was shocked to discover that Mitsy who had weighed 16 pounds, now only weighed 10. Something was definitely wrong. Her vet did a battery of tests and diagnosed Mitsy with hyperthyroidism.The thyroid gland acts as the thermostat for the metabolic rate of the body, controlling how fast or slow the body functions. So Mitsy's body was burning up food too quickly. Mitsy is not treated with Tapazole, a drug that interferes with the production of thyroid hormone by the thyroid gland. She has to remain on the drug indefinitely, but is sure to live a longer life for it. Julie is just happy that Mitsy is going to be fine and that she has pet insurance to help her pay for the expense. Julie hopes that everyone will consider getting pet insurance for their beloved kitties as well!

Source: PetPlace

How to Give Your Cat a Pill

Your Veterinarian as
prescribed pills for your cat and it's your job to see that your cat takes them. What now? Here's how to get the job done without turning your cat into a hissing, spitting pill-hating nightmare:
First, trying hiding the pill in food such as tuna, peanut butter or cream cheese – provided that your veterinarian has said that the medication can be given with food. But watch to be sure that your cat actually takes the pill. Some cats will eat the food and spit out the medicine.
If hiding the pill in food doesn't work, you are going to have to administer it physically. Unless you have a wonderfully accommodating cat, start by having a friend hold your cat's front legs and chest to keep her still. You can also try wrapping her snugly in a blanket or towel.
Firmly grasp your cat's head. If you are right-handed use your left hand; if you are a lefty, use your right hand.Put your thumb on one side of your cat's face and your fingers on the other. Avoid holding the lower jaw and make sure you don't squeeze the throat. Otherwise, you'll choke the cat.Once your cat's head is held in place, raise her nose to point toward the ceiling. Her mouth should start to open. Place the pill between the thumb and forefingers of your other hand. Use your little finger, ring finger or middle finger to open your cat's mouth further by applying pressure on her lower front teeth. After the mouth is fully open, place the pill as far back in the mouth as possible. Avoid placing your hand too far into your cat's mouth or she might gag. If this happens she may spit the pill back out. Close your cat's mouth and hold it closed. Gently and briefly rub your cat's nose, or blow on it. This should stimulate her to lick her nose, causing her to swallow. You can also try to stimulate swallowing by rubbing your cat's throat. If none of that works, tilt your cat's head back a little and try again. Always remember to praise your cat and maybe give her a treat. This will make future medicine times less traumatic.Final tip, if your vet approves, it may be a good idea to try this process after yourcat has eaten. She may well be calmer and more receptive then.
Source: PetPlace

From Stray to Pet

How do you help a cat move from stray to pet?

Cats that had previously been pets make the transition most easily. Once a cat has indicated her willingness to interact with people, a little food and a lot of patience can induce all but the most wary to become friends and, even better, grateful and loving owned pets. Stories abound of cats marching into a home they have chosen, and announcing by their actions that they are there to stay.Common sense dictates that both the cat and the neighborhood benefit from a trip to the veterinarian. The cat should be neutered or spayed quickly in order to avoid unwanted litters. In the case of a male cat, neutering will discourage him from participating in the noisy nocturnal battles under your bedroom window and from sharing his "eau de tom cat" – a pungent spray of urine. Before you do anything else, do a little investigative work to make sure that the cat does not belong to neighbors. If the cat has been taking regular meals at your house, chances are good that no other owner will be found. Once that hurdle is cleared, a telephone call to a local humane organization or to the community's animal control department should help locate a low-cost or free neuter/spay and vaccination clinic. If you intend to accept the wandering vagrant into your household, your own veterinarian should be the one to establish a health file and perform the initial work. In either event, make an appointment, and inform the clinic that they might be seeing a somewhat difficult patient.VaccinationsObtaining vaccinations – particularly against rabies – will protect the health of the neighborhood and your own family and other pets. Resident pet cats should be protected from possible transmission of viral diseases fatal to cats, such as the feline leukemia virus (FeLV). There are blood tests to screen for the presence of these viruses in seemingly healthy cats, and vaccinations to provide some level of protection for FeLV. There is no vaccination for feline immunodeficiency virus, also called feline AIDS.Transporting the CatYou'll need some kind of carrier to transport a panic-stricken cat to the veterinarian's office. Even a cat that will readily approach people for stroking could well panic if confined. A frightened cat, trying to escape, can distract a driver or inflict serious wounds with claws or teeth.If the cat has been accustomed to handling, a regular cat carrier can be purchased inexpensively from any pet supply store and even many grocery stores. A second choice would be a pillowcase, which is more difficult for the cat to escape than a cardboard box.If you're using a carrier, place some food into it for several days. Then, when the cat is accustomed to entering it, take the next step of latching the door. And finally, spend a little time accustoming the cat to being carried in it.If the cat resists all efforts to accustom her to your form of transport, then a trap obtained on loan (usually at no cost) from a humane organization or Animal Control, is easier on all involved. These traps are made of wire, so the cat's resistance to entering an enclosed container is lessened. Once trapped, a blanket can be put over the wire, and the cat can be transported without removing it.After the visit to the veterinarian, the cat needs a quiet place to recover, particularly if the cat is female. The spaying surgery is more invasive than neutering a male, and a longer recovery time is needed. Once accomplished, this veterinary visit will provide peace of mind that family and pets are protected from disease, and that the cat is protected not only from disease but from the reproductive drives that people find so annoying. You will have provided the cat with a giant step in the transition from panhandler to pet. And likely, without your even realizing it, the cat will have well and surely adopted you.

Source: Pet Place

Huge Amount of Cat Care

Articles on this Blog...

Cat Bad Breath

Cat bad breath is not so different from human bad breath: it tends to be caused by the activities of bacteria in the mouth that break down proteins and release sulfur compounds into the air. Sulfur smells bad, so breath that contains sulfur compounds smells bad also. In cats, the bacteria that cause the problem tend to be associated with a buildup of tartar on the teeth. Tartar is a coating composed of food particles, bacteria, and minerals.
To cure cat bad breath, it's helpful to try to remove the tartar that has built up on the cat's teeth. Some pet foods are formulated to help reduce tartar by producing mechanical friction that scrapes tartar off, or by including an enzyme that helps to dissolve it. Pet treats are also commonly marketed as tartar fighters in one way or another. If the buildup of tartar on the cat's teeth is extensive, it might be necessary to pay to have a professional cleaning. When the tartar is removed, the cat bad breath should go away.
Some people are able to clean their cat's teeth at home. Animal toothpastes are available in meat flavors - the mechanical brushing is important for removing tartar, but some of these toothpastes also contain enzymes that dissolve the tartar, so just getting it on the teeth regularly will help a bit to cure cat bad breath. Toothbrushes and tooth scrapers are also available. It is a fortunate cat owner whose cat will tolerate this kind of attention: start early with your cat to prevent the buildup of tartar in the first place, and avoid cat bad breath later.
Another approach is to try to decrease the number of bacteria in the cat's mouth that are producing the bad smell. Just as chlorhexidine and other antibacterials are helpful for humans, these substances can be added to a pet's water or sprayed directly on the teeth to combat cat bad breath. Alternative products are also available that treat the problem by fighting the bacteria. These remedies don't remove the tartar however, so they won't permanently cure cat bad breath - a combination of a bacteria-fighting product, with a mechanical means of tartar removal might be the best approach.
Keep in mind that, like people, cats sometimes have an odor in the mouth that is not coming from the mouth: kidney and liver disease are two things that cause cat bad breath. Take you cat to your veterinarian if your cat has a consistent problem, so that a complete examination can be done. Even if the problem does originate in the mouth, treatment under the watchful eye of a veterinarian is important because problems in the mouth can lead to other serious health problems later. If you cure cat bad breath now, you may avoid trouble in the future.
R. Drysdale is a freelance writer with more than 25 years experience as a health care professional. She is a contributing editor to Bad Breath Cure, a blog dedicated to the treatment of bad breath.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=R._Drysdale

Plenty of Cat Care Tips + ... Below !


-- Cat Arthritis ?

The most common signs of arthritis and joint disease in cats include stiffness, limping, or favoring a limb --particularly after sleep or resting, reluctance to jump or even climb stairs, and noticeable pain.
As in dogs, there are many causes of arthritis and joint disease in cats. These include trauma, infections, immune system disorders and developmental disorders such as hip dysplasia (yes, cats can get hip dysplasia).
In the following article we will discuss some of these causes or conditions which are more common or unique to cats. Before you read on, you may want to check out the articles Joint Anatomy and Veterinary Procedures Used to Diagnose Joint Disease for some background information. Information on how to manage cats with arthritis and other joint problems, including the use of Glucosamine and Chondroitin is discussed in Treatment of Osteoarthritis in Cats.
Progressive polyarthritis
Feline progressive polyarthritis, as the name suggests, affects multiple joints in a cat and worsens over time. There are generally two types of this disease.
In the first type of progressive polyarthritis, the cartilage is eroded from the ends of the bones making up the joint and bony spurs and bone thickening occur in bone adjacent to the joint. These kinds of changes are similar to those seen in hip dysplasia and other degenerative joint disease. The most commonly affected joints are those of the feet, the carpus (wrist) and hock.
In the second type of progressive polyarthritis, the erosion of the cartilage is severe such that the bone under the cartilage is exposed which causes severe pain. This is similar to rheumatoid arthritis in dogs and people.
Regardless of type, progressive polyarthritis in cats generally affects young and middle-aged male cats (neutering appears to make no difference). The cats show a reluctance to walk, the joints are swollen, the range of motion is reduced, and in some cases the cats experience recurring episodes of fever, loss of appetite and swollen lymph nodes.
Even with strong combinations of pain relievers, anti-inflammatories such as prednisone, and more potent medications, there is no cure for either type of progressive polyarthritis.
Arthritis caused by calicivirus infection
Calicivirus is a virus that is most well-known for the respiratory disease (usually runny eyes and nose) it causes. Calicivirus is often included in the distemper-rhinotracheitis-chlamydia vaccine which is given to kittens and cats.
In addition to respiratory disease, calicivirus can cause inflammation in the joints which results in lameness. This condition has been associated with both the field strain (the strain which generally causes disease) and, rarely, the vaccine strain. Respiratory symptoms may or may not be present along with the lameness. The cats with calicivirus-associated lameness often develop a fever and may be reluctant to eat.
It is generally a self-limiting disease, which means it usually resolves on its own. Supportive therapy such as pain relievers and anti-inflammatory medication is sometimes given. The vast majority of cats fully recover.
Diabetes mellitus
Rarely, cats with diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes) develop an unusual gait in which the hocks touch the ground when the cat walks. This is thought to be related to a disorder of the nerves, but can be mistaken for a joint problem.
Bacterial arthritis
In cats, joints most often become infected as a result of bite wounds. The joint becomes swollen, painful, warm to the touch, and the cat will often not want to bear any weight on the affected leg. The cat often has a fever and will not eat. At times the infection can spread from the joint to the bone (bone infection is termed "osteomyelitis").
Treatment involves draining the infected joint fluid from the joint, flushing the joint, and placing the cat on antibiotics. Because bacterial infections of the joint can rapidly produce permanent injury to the joint, infectious arthritis must be treated as soon as it is detected.
Other joint diseases
Several other joint conditions which are more common in dogs do occur rarely in cats. These include degenerative joint disease (osteoarthritis), ruptured anterior cruciate ligament , luxating patella, hip dysplasia, (intervertebral) disc disease, and hyperparathyroidism.

Article courtesy of Drs. Foster & Smith's

SOURCE. PetEducation.com

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Dealing With Cat ...

Internal Parasites ??


Be alert to the hidden health threat. Most internal parasites, commonly called worms, live in a cats intestines where they feed and reproduce. All kittens should be examined by a veterinarian for internal parasites. Your veterinarian can detect the presence of most worms by examining your kittens feces.
Some parasites, such as hookworms and roundworms, can be transmitted from the mother to her kittens before birth or during nursing. Hookworms are among the most dangerous of all internal parasites, especially in kittens who can be infected from their mother during nursing. Hookworms attach themselves to the intestinal wall and suck blood, causing severe anemia which can be fatal. Kittens with a heavy hookworm infection can die from blood loss within a few weeks. Their presence is less severe in older cats, but may lead to chronic anemia. Regular fecal examinations for the presence of hookworms minimizes the risk of infection.
Roundworms are a common parasite among young kittens. They are infected by way of the placenta during birth. After birth, kittens can become infected by larvae in the mothers milk. In the small intestine, roundworms compete with the kitten for nutrients, resulting in stunted growth and poor health. Roundworms often make a kitten look potbellied. Other signs include diarrhea, poor coat, listlessness and poor growth.Whipworms are passed in the feces and are difficult to eliminate. Generalized symptoms include weight loss, nervousness, diarrhea with blood and mucus, and dehydration. Treatment with anti-whipworm medication must be repeated at regular intervals until the cat is completely cleared of whipworms.
Tapeworms can be contracted by a kittens or cats swallowing tapeworm-carrying fleas, or by eating an infested rodent or raw fish or meat. The most common symptom is a ravenous appetite with no weight gain and, possibly, weight loss. Tapeworms are treated by medicine prescribed by a veterinarian.
Coccidia is a common parasite of cats, especially kittens. Eggs passed in the feces of infected animals become infective to other animals within one to several days, depending upon the temperature. The most common symptoms include diarrhea, abdominal pain, dehydration, weight and appetite loss. However, coccidia may present no symptoms. Veterinary diagnosis is made by examining the feces. Several effective medications are available, but the general health of the cat and the function of its immune system appear to be very important in preventing and treating coccidia.
Giardia is one of the most common parasites infecting cats. Young cats are more likely to have severe infections. Infections can be acquired by direct contact with fecal matter containing the parasites as well as from contaminated food and water. Symptoms can be intermittent or continuous and include foul-smelling feces which may contain mucus, loss of appetite and weight loss. Your veterinarian must perform fecal examinations by procedures designed to reveal this type of parasite. Once the diagnosis is established, specific treatment is available.
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All About Traveling ...

With Cats !

If you are planning to travel with your cat, first ask yourself these questions: Are cats allowed at my destination? If so, will my cat adjust to conforming to regulations concerning pets and really be happy away from home? Cats tend to be creatures of habit and it is important that your cat can adapt to change.
The pets who travel best are those who have been trained to ride in a car. If you would like to include your cat in your travel plans, accustom it to riding in the car. Ideally this training begins in kittenhood and it should be a happy experience for the kitten. Dont make the kittens first car ride a trip to the veterinarian. Begin by allowing the kitten to sit in the car to become familiar with the surroundings. Then take it for a short drive each day, even if it is only around the block.
If your cat seems unable to adjust to travel, you may decide that you and your cat will be happier if it stays home. Search out a responsible sitter or a boarding facility. If you choose to board your cat, make reservations well in advance of the trip, particularly during summer months and around major holidays.
The policy regarding cats varies with motels and hotels. Contact the reservations department in advance of your trip to determine if your cat will be welcome. Do not leave a cat unattended in a room. If a maid were to enter, the cat could become frightened and might run from the room. If, for any reason, you must leave the cat alone in the room for a short period of time, place it in its carrier or post a do not disturb sign on the door. If your cat is not in a carrier or in a secure location at your travel destination, keeping it on a leash is recommended.
When you travel with a cat, a change in its environment and routine may be a jolt to its feeling of security. Your love and understanding are needed to reassure your cat and to help it become a good travel companion.
Preparing for the Trip: If you plan to take your cat with you, be certain its vaccination shots are up-to-date. Your veterinarian will also issue health and rabies certificates which may be needed if you fly and will certainly be needed if you cross international borders. Carrying these certificate with you is a good idea. If you should have to board your cat during the trip, the kennel may require proof of immunization.
Your cat will also need its grooming equipment and its regular grooming schedule should be maintained. This is particularly true for longhaired cats to avoid tangled and matted hair which can lead to skin infections.
Do not feed your cat for at least three hours before leaving on a trip. Feed it shortly after arriving at your destination unless the trip is a long one. In that case, provide a snack and water during the trip. If the cats usual diet is not available at your destination, take a supply with you so no digestive upsets will be caused by a sudden diet change.
If your cat is accustomed to wearing a collar (a stretch collar designed for cats) be certain an identification tag is attached to the collar. The ID tag should give the cats name, your name, home address and telephone number including the area code, and, if possible, your vacation address and telephone number. Take pictures of your cat and write a description of your cat, including its height, weight, color, and any distinguishing marks to take with you. If your cat should become lost, these identification aids could make the difference in finding it.
Traveling By Air With Your Cat: If you are traveling by air with your cat, ask about what health certificates are needed. They vary with airline and your destination. There are usually two basic options for air travel. Some airlines allow cats to travel (generally for a fee) with their owners if a carry-on carrier fits under the passenger seat. The other option is to rent or purchase a flight crate which meets airline regulations and the cat is transported in the crate in the baggage compartment.
Because some airlines have limited space to accommodate pets, always make reservation well in advance.
On the day of the flight bring a cushion or blanket to put on the crate floor. Check to see if the water cup is attached to the crate door. The cup should be deep and not too full of water to avoid spilling. On a short flight, you may wish to detach the cup and store it with your luggage and provide water for drinking at the end of the flight.
To reduce the risk of air travel for your cat, try to avoid peak travel periods when delays and stopovers are longer. Traveling in extreme cold or hot weather could be dangerous if your cat must wait very long before loading and unloading. Plan the trip with as few stops and transfers as possible. Pets in transit tend to sleep the hours away, but during stops and transfers they may become frightened. Airport facilities vary and, as a result, pets may be left in the sun or rain without adequate protection or inadequate food or water during long waits between flights. At the end of your trip, pick up your cat promptly.
Plane travel is the fastest way to reach your destination, but some risk is involved for kittens, older cats or cats with health problems. If you have doubts, consult your veterinarian.
International Travel: If you are planning on international travel or relocation or a trip to Hawaii, keep in mind that certain countries require a quarantine at the owner’s expense. When you return, a quarantine office at customs will check documents and inspect your pet. The official may require confinement of any pet you have purchased abroad. Normally this is in your home rather than in official quarantine. Pets purchased abroad all require proof of immunization, certificates of good health, and payment of import duty.
Traveling By Car With Your Cat: If you are traveling by car, a carrier is a must. It should be strong, well-ventilated and one the cat cannot escape from. Before traveling, place the carrier where the cat can become acquainted with it. Placing a favorite toy or blanket in the carrier may help accustom the cat to the carrier. Take the cat for several rides around town in the carrier before attempting a longer trip.
While you are driving, always keep the cat confined in the carrier. This ensures safe, comfortable driving for you and your cat. Place a soft mat or cushion on the carrier floor. During hot weather never put the carrier on the sunny side of the car where it will become overheated.
One of the greatest dangers to a cat is leaving it in a closed car, even for a few minutes during hot weather. Cars heat quickly and leaving windows open a few inches does not always provide sufficient circulating air to keep you cat cool and comfortable. Insufficient air can lead to heat stress, suffocation and death.
If it is necessary to leave your cat in the car for a short period of time, choose a shaded area. Leave the windows open as far as safely possible to provide air circulation. Keep the cat in the carrier. Check the car frequently and never leave your cat for an extended time. Motion sickness may be a problem with your cat. If this occurs and if taking your cat with you is essential, discuss preventive measures with your veterinarian.
If the drive is eight hours or longer, give the cat an opportunity to use a litter pan every three or four hours. If the cat is inclined to have accidents along the way, put newspapers on the bottom of the carrier and sprinkle cat litter on them. The newspaper and soiled litter can be removed as needed.
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--- What To Do About Underweight Cats ? ?


Some older cats may be at risk for becoming underweight. In fact, a greater proportion of older cats is underweight than for any other age group. Older cats may eat less because they lack the desire to eat or because of a decrease in their sense of smell or taste. Dental problems or chronic disease conditions also may contribute. Some older cats may consume the same amount of food but are less efficient at digesting or absorbing nutrients, perhaps due to disease. If poor appetite is a problem, intake may be encouraged by:choosing a palatable super-premium diet;moistening dry food; warming food to body temperature; offering fresh food frequently; encouraging the cat during feeding; minimizing noise and stress during feeding.

Another cause for weight loss could be a change to a lower-calorie diet recommended for older cats. If an individual cat is not inactive, consumption of a lower-calorie diet may lead to inappropriate weight loss. For underweight cats, it is important to be sure they receive adequate calories to support their nutritional needs. If weight loss is not attributed to a specific diagnosis, a high-calorie, nutrient-dense food should be recommended. Most geriatric diets are designed for low-calorie density and are not appropriate for these cats.
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Cats Home Alone...Sept.12---2007

Cats Home Alone

By: Dr. Nicholas Dodman


Americans have grown much closer to their pets in the last 20 years or so, coming to regard them more as fellow family members rather than simply keeping them for some utilitarian function (such as rodent control). As part of this “warming” trend, cats now tend to be kept indoors to keep them safe from the risks of outdoor living. An indoor-outdoor cat has hazards of traffic, dogs, other cats and wild animals with which to contend. If an outdoor cat is not killed or injured on the roads, shaken to death by a neighborhood dog, or injured by another cat or wild animal, there is still the risk of contracting some debilitating disease. Basically, it's not a safe existence out there and most owners now know that. But indoor life can be tedious for some cats. They lack the all-important aspects of daily life in the wild, including the freedom to hunt, mark, protect and defend, and to interact with others of the same species.

It is our duty as cat owners to enrich our cats' indoor lives to make good some of these deficiencies. Without gainful employment cats merely exist within boring but luxurious homes. Also, without some species-specific entertainment, they may get into trouble, psychologically or physically, leading owners to seek behavioral modification advice … or not. Below is a list of suggested means by which a cat's environment may be made more user friendly. The underlying principal is “think cat.” If you do this you may even be able to add a few conceptions of your own.The Big E's (Environmental and Managemental Enrichment)
Climbing Frames. Cats really appreciate a three-dimensional environment, as evidenced by their constant attempts to climb up on top of things. To facilitate this innate compulsion, provide climbing frames in strategic locations so that your cat can elevate his position with ease and obtain a panoramic view of the outside world. This is the closet thing to a cat newspaper. From their perch they can survey their immediate environment in safety and catch up on the latest comings and goings.
Bird Feeders. The instinct to watch and stalk birds still courses through cats' veins even though it may have been generations since they relied on catching prey for a living. The provision of window feeders for birds can provide cats with a lot of viewing opportunities at no risk to the birds.
Fish Tanks. For similar reasons, a fish tank (with its lid firmly attached) can be another great pleasure for cats. Even though they never catch the fish, that failure does not detract from the thrill of “fishing.”
Food puzzles. In nature, cats had to work for their food. Hunting consumed a great deal of their time and energies. Yet we simply put their food down and leave them to scoff in as little as 5 minutes. What do they do then – sleep? If you get creative regarding your cat's feeding opportunities you can spin out those meals and make the process of eating more entertaining. Ideas include: 1. Putting your cat's kibble inside a Buster Cube, a plastic cube with various compartments for food that falls out as the cat bats it. 2. Feeding kibble via a toilet roll tube, with the ends taped over and holes drilled in the sides to release kibble intermittently. (The tube rolls around and is fun to chase.)3. Ping-pong balls with a hole drilled in the side to allow you to put a single piece of kibble inside.
Non-toxic grasses. Some cats respond well to fresh catnip or cat grass grown especially for them. Along the same theme, some cats also enjoy lettuce or green beans. Other cats can be redirected onto pieces of thin rawhide coated lightly with fish oil or cheese spread. Owners should offer the rawhide chews only when they will be directly supervising their cat.
Predatory games. It is almost mandatory to have various feather wands or fishing poles with string attached to entertain your cat. You should probably put aside several minutes a day for this activity. This will exercise and mentally stimulate the cat, and help to dissipate otherwise undirected predatory tendencies. Some predatory toys are automatic and allow activation by the cat even in your absence. For those of you who don't want to spend much cash there's always the old milk-bottle-seal-on-a-string trick or a bunch of table tennis balls that you leave around on a smooth floor. Laser mice are at the high tech end of the spectrum of toys and there are new electronic toys in the pipeline.
Sourcer: PetPlace

Cats Living with Dogs Sept 12---2007

Cats Living with Dogs

By: Dr. Nicholas Dodman

A lot of people ask, if I get another pet will it get along with my cat? The corollary to this question, if I get a cat will it get along with my existing pets, is also of interest to some folk. There is no simple answer to these two questions, but there are some facts to consider that might help forecast the results of such interspecies interactions:
The species of the housemate you intend for your cat (or proposed cat)
The temperaments of the individuals to be mixed
The early and later experiences of the individuals to be mixed
Which species is incumbent
Our own ability to monitor and manage the situation
The environmental setupWhile there can be some very harmonious marriages of species, sometimes the result of the mix can be damaging – or even lethal – to one or both animals.

Dogs and CatsPresident Clinton found out that bringing a dog (Buddy) into the White House where there was already a cat (Socks) was not as easy as balancing the U.S. budget. The two fought like, well, dog and cat. But do all dogs and cats hate each other? The answer is no. The relationship between these traditionally acrimonious species can range from good friends, to indifferent, to positively hostile. Dogs, by nature, are predators. Predators tend to chase rapidly moving and furry things smaller than they are, which is the job description of a cat. So, potentially there is a problem. But, dogs and cats, like humans, are not driven by nature alone. There is also a learned component to what they do. For a dog and cat, the most important time for learning who your friends are is the so-called sensitive period that spans the first two to three months of life. A puppy that is raised with cats during this time, and experiences no adverse consequences of the interaction, will likely grow up to regard cats as benevolent domestic fixtures. The reverse is also true. It may be slightly easier to introduce a new kitten to a resident dog than to introduce new puppies to a resident cat because of the highly territorial and antisocial nature of some cats. But you can also have your work cut out introducing kittens to a highly predatory species of dog. Both situations can sometimes be managed by proper chaperoning and protection of the most vulnerable species, and time can lead to mutual tolerance if not mutual admiration. If puppies and kittens are raised together, neither party should present a problem when integrating with the opposite species unless the incumbent is particularly mean. Cats should not be introduced to a home with dogs that have chased and tried to kill cats. These dogs will probably find it difficult to see cats as anything other than prey, and even if they do not actually manage to catch the cat they can make his life pretty miserable. Likewise, a puppy may have to be protected from a territorial bully of a cat that has, by virtue of his prior experiences, a lifelong hatred of dogs. Sometimes a dog in such a situation will learn to avoid a dangerous, unequable cat. In other instances, the cat may spend his life in trepidation of the dog. Neither of these situations is desirable or reasonable and they should, if possible, be avoided by prevention or rehoming of one or other of the feuding parties. That's what happened to Socks.If you are thinking of mixing species, ask whether they are predatory, aggressive, territorial, solitary, or gregarious. That will give you the genetic drift on what to expect. Then ask, how the species was raised, with whom, by whom, where, and when. Next you should probe for any information about prior interspecies interactions of the species in question (if that's not already moot). Finally, if you are still up for it, insist on a trial marriage before you commit to the newcomer. Not every creature gets along but then again, some do. Sometimes you just have to try putting future housemates together to find out how they interact together. But be safe. Their lives are in your hands. With the correct early socialization some seemingly miraculous unions can be achieved, like cats that allow birds to perch on their heads, cats that allow mice to run all over their bodies, even when they're nursing (there's another generation of mouse friendly cats in the making!), and cats who allow themselves to be groomed by non-human primates. It takes all kinds to make a world, and all kinds of (sometimes unlikely) unions to make it a happy place.
Source: PetPlace

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( -- FIRST AID CARE for Your CAT -- )

Table of Contents

Introduction................................................................
What is First Aid? ....................................................
Abscess.........................................................................
Bandaging .................................................................
Bee Stings / Insect Bites.......................................
Bleeding .....................................................................
Bloat ..........................................................................
Burns...........................................................................
Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR) ..............
Chemical Injuries ....................................................
Dehydration..............................................................
Diarrhea and Vomiting...........................................
Difficult Birth............................................................
Electrocution ...........................................................
Eye Injuries .............................................................
Fainting/Dizziness (Syncope) .............................
First Aid for Choking ............................................
First Aid for Poisoning...........................................
Fractures / Injuries................................................
How to Move the Injured Pet...............................
Hyperthermia (Heat Stroke, Heat Prostration)
Impalement Injuries ..............................................
Near Drowing..........................................................
Poisoning ..................................................................
Preventing a Health and Safety Crisis .............
Shock ........................................................................
Snakebite..................................................................
Straining ..................................................................
Sunburn ..................................................................
When Your Pet Cannot Breathe..........................
Wounds ...................................................................

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Nocturnal Cat Activity


Cats may be known for their propensity to sleep away a good portion of their lives but when they are awake, cats can be very active. These periods of activity often happen during the night. The cat may want to play, eat, or simply want company. Young cats in particular can drive their owners crazy from sleep deprivation!
Your cat’s ancestor, the African wildcat, is predominantly nocturnal. Domestication has shifted the cat’s activity patterns to be more diurnal (awake during the day), but they still tend to wake at least twice during the night. The good news is that your can retrain your cat to let you sleep in peace.
IMPORTANT: If you own a cat who has traditionally not bothered you, but is now restlessly wandering about the house and crying during the night, there may be an underlying medical problem. If your cat is also eating noticeably more, she may have an overactive thyroid (hyperthyroidism), which can be easily controlled with medication. To be on the safe side, have the cat checked by your veterinarian.
WHAT TO DO: - Schedule a few play sessions with your cat during the evening. Interactive play is best, using toys that mimic the movement of mice and birds, such as cat dancers and kitty teasers. Games with Ping-Pong balls, soft balls, and furry “mice” toys are great for kitties who like to fetch. Try to play until the cat is tired. - Feed the cat a main meal just before your bedtime. Cats tend to sleep after a big meal. If your cat continues to wake you during the night for food, obtain a timed feeder that you can set to open once or twice, with fresh food, during the night. The cat will learn to wait by the feeder rather than bother you. Make sure you adjust meal sizes so your cat doesn’t gain weight. - Incorporate a variety of enrichment activities to keep your cat busy during the day. The more active your cat is during the day, the more likely she will sleep at night. See our information on enrichment for helpful tips. - If your cat is social with other cats, consider adding a second cat to your family. If the cats are compatible, they will play with each other and be more likely to leave you alone. But be forewarned—conversely, they may both decide to play during the night! - If your cat tries to play with you or wake you while you’re sleeping, you may need to banish the cat from your bedroom. Playful cats have been known to unintentionally injure their sleeping owners—for instance, the cat may notice your eyes moving under your lids and swat at your face in play. If your cat cries and scratches at the door, you can discourage her by placing something she dislikes in front of the door, such as vinyl carpet-runner (placed upside-down to expose the knobby feet), double-sided sticky tape, foil, or a Scat Mat™. Alternatively, you can set up a “booby trap” outside your door. For example, mount your blow dryer or place your vacuum cleaner by the door and plug it into a remote switch, which you can find at Radio Shack. When your cat wakes you, you can hit a button on the remote to turn on the appliance. The startled cat will be unlikely to return to your door after that!
WHAT NOT TO DO: - Do not get up and attend to the cat—unless, of course, you suspect something is wrong. If you rise and feed the cat, play with her, or even interact with her for a few minutes, you are reinforcing the cat for waking you up. She will likely become more persistent each subsequent night. Even scolding the cat is unlikely to work, because negative attention is better than no attention at all for some cats.
Source: SPCA

House Soiling by Your Cat


At least ten percent of all cats develop an elimination problem. Some cats stop using the box altogether, while some only use the box for urination, and some cats go both in and out of the box. Most litter box problems stem from a change in the cat’s preferred substrate or location of the box, or when the cat develops an aversion to the box or the area around the box. Sometimes an elimination problem will develop as a result of conflict between cats in the home.
What cats want The majority of cats prefer: - a large box that is easy to enter, with a low to moderate level of litter;- an uncovered box;- either the type of litter on which they were trained on or clumping litter;- unscented litter;- a box that is located in a quiet but not “cornered” location—i.e., the cat likes to be able to see if someone is approaching, and they like to have more than one exit;- above all, cats want a CLEAN box.
WHAT TO DO:1. It is imperative to evaluate and rule out a medical cause for the problem. Have your cat checked thoroughly by your veterinarian first.2. Remove covers from litter boxes.3. Give the cat a choice of litter types. Cats generally prefer unscented clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. 4. Scoop at least once a day. Once a week, clean the entire box with warm water (no soap) and completely replace litter.5. Clean “accidents” thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize the odor.6. If the cat is soiling around just a few spots in the home, place litter boxes there. If it is not possible put a box in one of these spots, place the cat’s food bowl, water bowl, bed, and/or toys in the area to discourage elimination.7. Offer different types of litter in boxes placed side-by-side to allow the cat to demonstrate his preferences for litter type.
WHAT NOT TO DO: - Do not rub the cat’s nose in his elimination.- Do not scold the cat and carry or drag him to the litter box.- Do not use an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia, and cleaning with an ammonia-based formula could attract the cat back to the same spot to urinate again.
Special Tips for Multi-Cat HouseholdsAs a general rule, the number of boxes available should be at least one more than the number of cats in the home (i.e. 3 cats = 4 boxes).
Sometimes an elimination problem develops as a result of conflict between cats in the home. If you have multiple cats and aren’t sure which cat is soiling, speak with your veterinarian about administering fluorescein, a harmless dye, to the cat (either by injection, Fluorescite injection 10 percent, 0.3 ml subcutaneously, or orally, 0.5 mL of the same solution). The dye does not stain carpeting, but causes the urine to fluoresce blue for 24 hours under an ultraviolet light. Alternatively, cats can be confined, one at a time, to determine which cat is soiling.
Source: SPCA

General Cat Care


What you’ll need to know to keep your companion feline happy and healthy.
BackgroundCats were domesticated sometime between 4,000 and 8,000 years ago, in Africa and the Middle East. Small wild cats started hanging out where humans stored their grain. When humans saw cats up close and personal, they began to admire felines for their beauty and grace.There are many different breeds of cats--from the hairless Sphynx and the fluffy Persian to the silvery spotted Egyptian mau. But the most popular felines of all are non-pedigree—that includes brown tabbies, black-and-orange tortoiseshells, all-black cats with long hair, striped cats with white socks and everything in between.
CostWhen you first get your cat, you’ll need to spend about $25 for a litter box, $10 for a collar, and $30 for a carrier. Food runs about $170 a year, plus $50 annually for toys and treats, $175 annually for litter and an average of $150 for veterinary care every year. The best place to get a cat? Your local shelter! Please visit our shelter directory to find shelters and rescue groups in your area.
Note: Make sure you have all your supplies (see our checklist) before you bring your new pet home.
Basic Care
Feeding - An adult cat should be fed one large or two or three smaller meals each day. - Kittens from 6 to 12 weeks must eat four times a day. - Kittens from three to six months need to be fed three times a day.
You can either feed specific meals, throwing away any leftover canned food after 30 minutes, or keep dry food available at all times. We recommend a high-quality, brand-name kitten or cat food; avoid generic brands. You will need to provide fresh, clean water at all times, and wash and refill water bowls daily.
Although cat owners of old were told to give their pets a saucer of milk, cats do not easily digest cow’s milk, which can cause diarrhea in kittens and cats. Treats are yummy for cats, but don't go overboard. Most packaged treats contain lots of sugar and fat, which can pack on the pounds. Some cats like fresh fruits and vegetables, like broccoli, corn or cantaloupe. You can offer these once in awhile.
If your kitten is refusing food or isn’t eating enough, try soaking her kitten food in warm water. If that doesn’t work, kittens can be fed human baby food for a short time. Use turkey or chicken baby food made for children six months and older. Gradually mix with her regular food.
GroomingMost cats stay relatively clean and rarely need a bath, but you should brush or comb your cat regularly. Frequent brushing helps keep your cat's coat clean, reduces the amount of shedding and cuts down on the incidence of hairballs.
HandlingTo pick up your cat, place one hand behind the front legs and another under the hindquarters. Lift gently. Never pick up a cat by the scruff of the neck or by the front legs.
HousingYour pet should have her own clean, dry place in your home to sleep and rest. Line your cat's bed with a soft, warm blanket or towel. Be sure to wash the bedding often. Please keep your cat indoors. Cats who are allowed outdoors can contract diseases, get ticks or parasites, become lost or get hit by a car, or get into fights with other free-roaming cats and dogs. Also, cats may prey on native wildlife.
IdentificationIf allowed outdoors (again, we caution against it!), your cat must wear a safety collar and an ID tag. A safety collar with an elastic panel will allow your cat to break loose if the collar gets caught on something. And if your pet is indoors-only, an ID tag or an implanted microchip can help insure that your cat is returned if he or she becomes lost.
Litter BoxAll indoor cats need a litter box, which should be placed in a quiet, accessible location. A bathroom or utility room is a good place for your cat's box. In a multi-level home, one box per floor is recommended. Avoid moving the box unless absolutely necessary. Then do so slowly, a few inches a day.
Keep in mind that cats won't use a messy, smelly litter box, so scoop solid wastes out of the box at least once a day. Dump everything, wash with a mild detergent and refill at least once a week; you can do this less frequently if using clumping litter. Don't use ammonia, deodorants or scents, especially lemon, when cleaning the litter box.
Behavior InformationPlayCats delight in stalking imaginary prey. The best toys are those that can be made to jump and dance around and look alive. Your cat can safely act out her role as a predator by pouncing on toys instead of people's ankles. Please don't use your hands or fingers as play objects with kittens. This type of rough play may cause biting and scratching behaviors to develop as your kitten matures.
ScratchingCats need to scratch! When a cat scratches, the old outer nail sheath is pulled off and the sharp, smooth claws underneath are exposed. Cutting your cat’s nails every two to three weeks will keep them relatively blunt and less likely to harm the arms of both humans and furniture.
Provide your cat with a sturdy scratching post, at least three feet high, which will allow her to stretch completely when scratching. The post should also be stable enough that it won't wobble during use, and should be covered with rough material such as sisal, burlap or tree bark. Many cats also like scratching pads. A sprinkle of catnip once or twice a month will keep your cat interested in her post or pad.
HealthYour cat should see the veterinarian at least once a year for an examination and annual shots, and immediately if she is sick or injured.
Ear MitesThese tiny parasites are a common problem that can be transmitted from cat to cat. If your cat is constantly scratching at his ears or shaking his head, he may be infested with ear mites. You will need to call your vet, as your cat's ears will need to be thoroughly cleaned before medication is dispensed.
Feline Urological Syndrome (FUS)Both males and females can develop this lower urinary inflammation, also called Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). Signs of FUS include frequent trips to the litter box, blood in the urine and crying out or straining when urinating. If your male cat looks "constipated," he may have a urethral obstruction and can’t urinate. This can be fatal if not treated quickly. Urethral blockages are rare in females. About five percent of cats are affected with FUS. Special diets may help prevent this condition.
Fleas and TicksFlea infestation should be taken seriously. These tiny parasites feed off of your pet, transmit tapeworms and irritate the skin. Carefully check your cat once a week for fleas and ticks. If there are fleas on your cat, there will be fleas in your house. You may need to use flea bombs or premise-control sprays, and be sure to treat all animals in your house. Take care that any sprays, powders or shampoos you use are safe for cats, and that all products are compatible when used together. Cats die every year from improper treatment with flea and tick control products. Please contact your veterinarian for the most effective flea control program for your pet.
Medicines and PoisonsNever give your cat medication that has not been prescribed by a veterinarian. For example, did you know that acetominophin and aspirin can be FATAL to a cat?! Keep rat poison or other rodenticides away from your cat. If you suspect that your animal has ingested a poisonous substance, call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center for 24-hour animal poison information at (888) 426- 4435.
Spaying and NeuteringFemale cats should be spayed and male cats neutered by six months of age. Neutering a male (removing the testicles) can prevent urine spraying, decrease the urge to escape outside and look for a mate, and reduce fighting between males. Spaying a female (removing the ovaries and uterus) helps prevent breast cancer, which is usually fatal, and pyometra (uterus infection), a very serious problem in older females that must be treated with surgery and intensive medical care. Since cats can breed up to three times per year, it is vital that your female feline be spayed to prevent her from having unwanted litters.
Vaccinations* Kittens should be vaccinated with a combination vaccine (called a “3 in 1”) at 2, 3 and 4 months of age, and then annually. This vaccine protects cats from panleukopenia (also called feline distemper), calicivirus and rhinotracheitis. If you have an unvaccinated cat older than four months of age, he will need a series of two vaccinations given 2 to 3 weeks apart, followed by yearly vaccinations.
* There is a vaccine available for feline leukemia virus (FeLV). This is one of the two immune system viruses (retroviruses) that infect cats. The other is feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV). There is no vaccine available for FIV. Cats can be infected with either virus for months, even years, without any indication that they are carrying a fatal virus. All cats should be tested for these viruses.
FeLV and FIV can be transmitted at birth from the mother or through the bite of an infected cat. Neither virus can infect humans. Many outdoor and stray cats and kittens carry this infection. Because of the fatal nature of these diseases, you should not expose cats already living in your home by taking in untested cats or kittens. To be safe, keep your cat indoors—but if your cat does go outside, he should be vaccinated against the feline leukemia virus. Remember, no vaccine is 100-percent effective.Rabies vaccination is required by law in most areas of the country. Ask your veterinarian if you are unsure of the laws in your area.
Please note, if your companion cat gets sick because he is not properly vaccinated, the vaccinations should be given after your pet has recovered.
WormsKittens and cats can be infected with several types of worms. The key to treatment is correct diagnosis. This will ensure that the medication is effective against the parasite your pet has. A dewormer that eliminates roundworms, for example, will not kill tapeworms. Your veterinarian can best determine the culprit—and prescribe the appropriate medication.
Cat Supply Checklist - Premium-brand cat food- Food dish- Water bowl- Interactive toys- Brush- Comb- Safety cat collar with ID tag- Scratching post or scratching pad- Litter box- Litter- Cat carrier - Cat bed or box with warm blanket or towel
Source: SPCA

At What Age Should I Spay

Or Neuter My Dog or Cat?


Ron Hines DVM PhD

There are allot of conflicting recommendations as to the best age to spay or neuter your pet. Traditionally, veterinarians suggested that dogs be neutered at six months of age. In the majority of dogs, this precedes the first heat cycle in females and the onset of male dog behavior ( lifting their leg to pee, showing of sexual interest, roaming, aggression). Smaller breeds of dogs tend to mature a bit faster than larger breeds so many toy and miniature breeds were spayed at five months of age.
Female cats reach sexual mature more rapidly than most dogs. I have found that once a female cat weighs 4.5 pounds, it is often fertile; and it usually becomes pregnant on its first estrus (heat) cycle. Males cats mature more slowly and when they do breed, it is usually someone else's pet that becomes pregnant. If your male cat has begun to spray urine in the house, it is time to get him fixed. However, many male cats never spray. Un-neutered male cats should never be allowed out-of-doors unsupervised. If they are simply shown the door, they will invariably get into fights with more dominant Tomcats and become injured.
American Heartland families would often allow their new pet to have one litter so the pet or the family's children could experience the "miracle of birth".
As humane organizations and animal shelters became more common and powerful, popular recommendations changed. Shelters and animal rights advocates are opposed to the indiscriminate breeding of pets. They have good reason for this - the more unwanted puppies and kittens that are born, the more difficulty these groups have in finding homes for them and the more likely it is that these youngsters must be "put down"(killed). Many shelters are so adamantly opposed to this, that they have strict bylaws or rules that no un-neutered pets can be adopted. That is why they favor early spaying. They also know that if a pet they have adopted out is not neutered in it's first 8 months, it is unlikely to ever be neutered. So, for them, this is a social, not a medical, issue. I know of no medical or behavioral reason to neuter a pet before its estrogen or testosterone levels begin to rise. By definition,this does not occur, in immature animals.
Some veterinarians prefer to neuter very young pets because their ovaries or testes (testicles) are still quite small. In this condition, there are less blood vessels that need to be tied off (ligated, sutured) so the risk of bleeding is much less. On rare occasions, female pets have died do to loss of blood when surgery did not go as planned. In very infantile (young) puppies and kitten, no suture need be used internally, instead all internal incisions are made with an electric knife called a cautery.
Veterinarians also appreciate that healthy, immature animals heal and rebound sorapidly after surgery. There are also economic incentives to neutering pets at a very young age.
Neutering pets was never part of God's design or Plan. We do it to ameliorate problems that we and these animals experience as humans adapt Nature to their own desires.
It is my personal opinion that estrogen, testosterone and other chemicals, secreted or influenced by the ovaries and testes (testicles), are quite important in the normal, healthy, development of dogs and cats. These hormones affect everything from brain and bone development to the percentage of fat in the body. There are likely many other lingering hormonal influences on the body that we do not yet understand. Because of this, I do not suggest that dogs or cats be spay at a very young age.
I have examined a great many puppies and kittens. I have never seen an instance where I felt that a puppy or kitten needed to be neutered before sexual maturity was imminent. I developed a way to decide the best time to neuter pets - I am sure many veterinarians made the same observations. Just before a pet reaches sexual maturity, permanent, upper canine teeth (fangs) replaced the ones they had as puppies or kittens. When these permanent teeth first erupt, every pet I have ever examined was still immature and showed no sexual traits. But very soon after these new teeth reached their final length, sex hormones begin to rise. That is when I set an upcoming appointment to spay the pet within 14 days. If, for some reason, you can not have the surgery in female pets, securely confine your pet and allow it to complete it's first heat cycle before scheduling the surgery. This surgery can be done during estrus (their period) but it becomes a much more serious operation and the crash in hormones must be quite uncomfortable.
Decisions based on hormonal analysis of the blood of your pet might be more scientific. But I have observed through many years of practice that examination of the canine teeth is quite accurate and effective.
Waiting too long to spay your pet is also not a good idea. After dogs mature, they often deposit abdominal fat that increases the difficulty of the surgery. Waiting too long can also lead to your veterinarian into having to spay a pregnant pet. Also, the tendency of older female dogs to develop breast tumors increase a function of age at spaying. (Please see Threads below)
Source: All Creature Care

What Should I Feed My Cat ?


Ron Hines DVM PhD
Good nutrition and a balanced diet are essential for health. People often ask me what they should feed their cats. Over the years, I have made some observations on the health of cats fed an enormous variety of diets. Here are some of my conclusions.
In the last few years, raw meat diets have become popular. I am hesitant to recommend them because I have seen several catteries contaminated with Salmonella infection which I believe was caused by feeding raw meat. All of the known vitamins, present in raw meat, have been supplemented in name-brand diets.
Cats have not evolved from strict meat eaters in the way dogs have. In their nutritional needs, cats are much the same as their wild ancestors. They are particularly well suited to digesting animal protein but unable to utilize dietary fiber. Cats do best on a diet, which is twenty percent protein, nine percent fat thirty-five percent carbohydrates and a maximum of ten percent fiber.
Cats are not big drinkers. They drink less than dogs do – possibly because they descend from desert sand cats. This may also be the cause of their susceptibility to urine crystals and subsequent lower urinary tract disease.
Canned vs. Dry Cat Foods
Given their choice, most cats prefer canned diets. The aroma, flavor and palatability of dry diets do not match that of canned. Cats are creatures of habit and quickly get accustomed to a flavor and consistency of diet to the exclusion of all others. Which ever you buy, be sure the label says that the diet meets the National Research Council’s guidelines on feline nutrition and is certified by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. Over the years I have found that cats fed dry diets have less tartar build up on their teeth and less gum disease surrounding the teeth. With time, gum inflammation associated with canned diets causes the tissues surrounding the teeth to recede and the teeth to loosen. With time, bacteria moving through the blood stream from infected gums cause damage to the kidneys and liver. Dry cat foods have greater caloric density – that is they are richer. This is because canned food contains about 75% water. I do not suggest semi-moist diets because of the large amount of preservatives they contain.
How Much To Feed Your Cat
Cats vary greatly in the amount of food necessary for optimal weight and health. Most adult cats I see are overweight. Overweight cats store their fat on their tummies so they may not appear fat to their owners. Growing cats and kittens require considerably more food per pound body weight to thrive than adults or senior cats do. The following table is an estimate of how much your cat should eat. It is not precise because the compositions of various brands differ

Age
Body Weight
Ounces of Dry Food
Ounces of Canned Food
10 weeks
2.0-2.4 lbs
2.5-3.0 oz
7.3-8.9 oz
20 weeks
4.2-5.5 lbs
2.8-3.7 oz
8.0-10.5 oz
30 weeks
5.5-8.4 lbs
2.8-4.2 oz
8.1-12.4 oz
40 weeks
6.4-8.4 lbs
2.6-3.4 oz
7.6-9.9 oz
Adult Active
4.8-9.9 lbs
2.0-4.0 oz
5.7-11.8 oz
Adult Inactive
4.8-9.9 lbs
1.7-3.2 oz
5.0-10.3 oz
Senior Adult
4.8-9.9 lbs
2.3-4.3 oz
6.7-7.7 oz
Pregnancy
5.5-8.0 lbs
2.8-4.4 oz
8.1-13.0 oz
Giving Milk*
4.8-8.8 lbs
6.1-11.1 oz
17.8-32.4 oz

Nutrient Requirements of Cats
Cats are natural meat eaters and cannot be maintained on vegetarian diets or diets that rely heavily on grains. Such diets are deficient in essential amino acids, fatty acids and vitamins. Cats are finicky eaters who choose their foods on the basis of taste, aroma, texture and moisture content rather than meeting their nutritional needs. Cats are unusual in that they cannot convert the carotenes found in leafy plants into vitamin A as humans can. Their natural source of vitamin A is liver. Vitamin A is necessary for membrane health. Cats deficient in vitamin A are more susceptible to respiratory tract infections, eye and skin disease. Niacin or nicotinic acid is also essential to your cat’s health. A lack of niacin causes inflammation of the intestines, rough skin and hair coat, oral ulcers and increased susceptibility to infection. Most mammals can synthesize niacin from the amino acid, triptophan. Cats have lost that ability and must obtain all their niacin from their diet. Cats must obtain the fatty acid, arachidonic acid from their diets. Animal fats are a good source of arachidonic acid. Unlike most mammals, cats cannot synthesize taurine from cysteine and methionine. They must receive all of it through the muscle meats in their diet. Lack of sufficient taurine causes blindness and heart enlargement. In addition to these special nutrients, cats have a higher protein and fat requirement than dogs and many other mammals.Although high fiber diets are not natural for cats, some dietary fiber is important for gastrointestinal motility. Dietary fiber also seems to aid in preventing hyperglycemia and diabetes that are common in older cats. Too much fiber can prevent the absorption of vitamins and minerals and lead to diarrhea.
There are twelve minerals that are essential for cats. One of these, calcium, is essential for the formation of bone and teeth and as a signal between cells. Kittens that do not receive sufficient calcium have pinkish, translucent teeth a bowlegged stance and knobby painful joints. Partial bone fractures in these kittens are common. Most of the kittens I see with this condition were the offspring of nutritionally deprived feral (wild) cats. Others received a diet that was primarily meat or fish. Meat is low in calcium and high in phosphorus. High phosphorus interferes with the absorption of the little calcium that meat contains. Older cats on low calcium high phosphorus meat diets suffer from tooth and bone problems.
Feeding
An average sized adult cat weighing nine pounds should consume about 240 kilocalories a day. Neutered cats need less than intact animals. Cats like to munch on and off throughout the day so I suggest dry foods be available at all times. When food is available at all times, cats will eat ten to twenty small meals a day. Younger cats tent to self-regulate their caloric intake and stay lean. But twenty to forty percent of cats become overweight when feed free choice. As cats age, feed them a diet that is less caloric. One needs to consider at cats age and body condition when planning a diet. Problems occur in multi-cat households because it seems that there is always one cat that needs to eat more and another that needs to eat less. The only way I have found to solve this problem is to feed different cats in different closed rooms of the house several times a day. Give them about twenty minutes at a feeding. Thin cats should be encouraged to eat one-and-a-half times a normal ration. This can be done with treats or pungent flavors. Feed chubby cats foods that are advertised as lower caloric or just feed them less. Chubby cats are more susceptible to diabetes and liver disease. If these cats are fed only two thirds of the food they presently consume, weight loss will be gradual and gentle. One can also feed a lower caloric cat chow to accomplish the same thing.
Food Quality
Cat foods differ primarily in their source of protein. Generic cat foods use less expensive sources of protein. Because of this, the quality of protein in generic and house brand cat foods is poorer. Do not be led astray by considering only the percent protein. Percent protein tells nothing about the quality and digestibility of the product. Excluding premium, niche and specialty brands sold through pet shops, the quality of cat diets is reflected directly in the price you pay for the food. Cats love the taste of fish. However, an overactive thyroid gland or hyperthyroidism as well as premature aging have been associated with feeding fish-flavored cat foods. It is not clear if the problem is that poor quality, rancid fish are used in animal foods or if there are constituents in fish themselves that cause the problem. Some nutritionists theorize that the high level of unsaturated fatty acids in fish lend themselves to the formation of free radical groups upon spoiling. If you must feed fish-flavored cat foods, supplement your cat with 25-50 units of vitamin E per day and one milligram of thiamine. Please see Threads:
Source: All Creature Care

Ten Rules For Choosing The Right Pet


Ron Hines DVM PhD
Personal life in 2006 is quite different from what it was when Ozzie & Harriet kept house. In those days, most families had larger dogs like collies and boxers and sometimes a shorthaired cat or two that went in and out of doors as it pleased. The nuclear family consisted of a husband and a stay-at-home wife and two and one half children. I do not know if today’s life is better or worse but it is certainly different.
We have a lot more choices now in pets and our pet often becomes our best friend and companion. Here are a few things to do and not to do when choosing a pet:
1) No Impulse Shopping
Try not to adopt or purchase a pet on a whim or inspiration. Make it a deliberate, thought-out action. Buying a pet at a pet shop because it looks so, so adorable is not a good way to add another long-term member to your family. Sometimes we are not the best judges of our needs and sometimes our desires don’t really fit our needs. You might ask a close relative what kind of pet might fit your life style. Don’t be impulsive.
2) Shop Around
Take the time to learn all about the kind of pet you are considering buying. Pet stores have a built-in bias to sell the animals so they are often not the best places to learn about pets. Books are somewhat better but no one has written an animal book who wasn’t head over heals in love with that type of animal. Often the negative aspects of a species are glossed over. Remember that a new pet can change the structure of a family and needs to be acceptable to all family members. If you are considering purchasing a dog, learn about the special attributes of many breeds. Dog breeds are as different in their personalities, abilities and needs as people are.
3) Visit The Humane Society And Animal Rescue Organizations
Pay a few walk-through trips to your local humane society or ferret, guinea pig and rabbit rescue organizations and interact with some of the animals there in a quiet one-on-one basis. Don’t pay too much attention to the chatter regarding specific pets. Just observe the pet when it is alone with you and try to make a mental list of its positive and negative points.
4) Match Your Pet To Your Life Style
Are you a night owl or a day person? Some pets, like sugar gliders and ferrets spend much of the day asleep and are most active at night. Do you work long hours? Some pets get very lonely by themselves while others are not bothered by solitude. Do you have children? Are they mature enough not to be a threat to the pet you choose? If you travel a lot who will care for the pet while you are away?
5) Match Your Pet To Your Home Environment
How much free space is there? Is there a back yard? Is it fenced? How will your neighbors feel about this new pet? If you rent, what will your landlord think about this pet?
6) Decide Why You Want A Pet
Is this pet going to be a child substitute? There is nothing wrong with that. But then you may want a dog or possibly an unusually affectionate cat. One of the toy breeds may be ideal for you. Your personality traits are very important. Do you want a pet that is independent and requires little contact or are you looking for an energetic companion with whom you can jog or play Frisbee? Cat people tend to have different traits than dog people. If you give either of them the wrong species, they often have trouble bonding with the pet. Have you ever noticed that with time, pets and their owners tend to resemble each other? Consider the reasons you want a new pet. Do you want to play with it and caress it? If so a newt or turtle may not be the right pet for you. Do you want to teach it tricks and interact with it? Then an intelligent pet like a dog, cat or ferret might be the right choice. Many families purchase a pet to be their children' companion. This is an excellent idea. However, do not purchase a pet to instill responsibility in an immature child.. Owning a pet and being forced to care for it does not instill responsibility in a child. If you are uncertain, be prepared to do most of the care yourself.
7) Decide If This Is The Right Time In Your Life To Get A Pet
Frankly consider if this is really the right time in your life to own a (another) pet. If you already have other pets how will they get along with the new one? How stable are your human relationships? How good is your health?
8) Decide How Long You Want Your Pet To Live
How long do you expect your pet to live? Average dogs and cats live 12-16 years – some longer. Tortoises and goldfish have indeterminate life spans that approximate our own. Small parrots live 8-14 years; larger ones 35-60 years. Mice, however, are old at two years.
9) Decide If You Are Able To Meet This Pet’s Specific Needs
It is a good idea to do some research online or at the library as to how much care your pet will need. Try to find some locate owners you can visit with. Do you have enough time to properly feed and clean for it? Many pets get bored if they do not have enough one-on-one contact. This boredom can lead to a host of undesirable behaviors.
10) Cost
Besides the initial cost of the pet, you will incur considerable expense in purchasing the pet a suitable home or cage. Over time, the cost of a good diet will far exceed whatever you paid for the animal. It may need expensive veterinary care, grooming and pet sitters as well.
What types of pets should I consider?
Dogs are still my favorite pets. I love them. Most are intelligent, loyal, happy and obedient. They bond closely with their owner (s). But they do require a lot of your time if they are to remain healthy and happy.
Cats have been desirable pets since the days of the Egyptians. They are more independent than dogs and may thrive better if they must endure long periods of the day alone.
Guinea pigs are gentle affectionate pets. They can live in small quarters. They are economical to feed and, when well maintained, have little odor and produce very little dander. Unfortunately they only live for 5-8 years. They almost never bite. They do not make good pets for children. If you live in a cool environment and want a longer living rodent, purchase a chinchilla.
Ferrets are very desirable pets. They are about as intelligent as a cat. They are nearly noiseless and do well on a commercial diet of ferret or kitten chow. Ferrets are curious and affectionate. They have short attention spans. They generally live 8-10 years. Some people find their odor undesirable. Most of the day they will be found asleep but they don't appear to mind being woken up and cuddled. .
Rabbits are often sold as pets. They are adorable when they are babies. But as they mature their needs increase and they may become aggressive. Read my article on rabbits as pets before choosing one. Some owners just love their pet rabbits and they do well in households with cats.
Rats, Mice, Gerbils and Hamsters all make good pets if they are handled from the time they open their eyes. Rats live 4-6 years; mice 2-3 years. They are economical to buy and maintain and can be quite affectionate. They do have a rather strong odor –especially if their cages are not cleaned frequently enough. The most odiferous of this group are hamsters; the least are gerbils.
Turtles, Tortoises Lizards And Snakes are all basically “observational” pets. That is, you can watch them, handle them and pet them but they do not generally return affection. The most affectionate of the group are tortoises. All have very long lives, which can pose a problem as our life situations change.
Parrots and Cockatoos, parakeets and cockatiels are the most affectionate of all birds that are commonly kept as pets. They usually bond to only one member of the family – which can be a problem. Generally, the larger the bird species, the longer they live. They can be quite noisy and cockatoos in particular produce large amounts of dust (powder down)
Exotic pets such as monkeys sugar gliders, opossums and hedgehogs really do not make good pets for average “normal” people. There are occasional people and families who swear by them as pets. Some of us enjoy creating our own private zoos and keep these animals in superb conditions. But most of us would find them messy and demanding with needs that are rarely met in captivity. Although some become very tame most are rarely affectionate.
Fish have qualities in common with plants. They are both beautiful to look at and add an air of comfort to any home. As with plants, some of us have a “green thumb” with fish as with plants. They need regular, methodical continuous care in order to thrive. It is hard to develop a one-on-one relationship with a fish but they will come and become “happily” agitated when you feed them.
Farm Animals can make very good pets. Often zoning codes do not allow them in residential neighborhoods. Unlike exotic animals, farm animals are domesticated and affectionate and food sources are readily available at the feed store. Some require more space that the average tract home supplies.
Source: All Creature Care

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.10--2007

Now... It's
Your turn
Kitty Cat

Cat Surgery Pre -Post Operation


>>> Cutting through all the information

Due to illness, disease or trauma, your pet may one day require surgery. While always stressful (for both you and your pet) there are a few basic guidelines that you can follow that will make the process as complication-free as possible and put your pet on the fast road to recovery.
Depending on the type of surgery, whether minor or major, your veterinary surgeon will advise you when your pet can resume a normal lifestyle.

>>> Pre-surgical Instructions

Your veterinary surgeon will do a check-up on your pet before the surgery to determine if there are any pre-existing conditions that may interfere with the surgical procedure.
Make sure your pet is up-to-date with annual vaccinations.
Your veterinary surgeon may suggest a blood test to screen for disease not apparent from a physical exam.
You may need to administer antibiotics several days prior to major surgery to increase your pet's ability to fight off infection.
Speak with your veterinary surgeon to find out what are the restrictions for food and water.

>>> Post-surgical instructions

Chances are your pet will be weak or groggy after surgery. Do not let him/her get too excited.
Restrain your animal with a leash or put him/her in a carrier when leaving the hospital. This will protect him/her from additional injury.
Provide only small amounts of food and water until your pet readjusts to being at home and is recovering. Too much food and water can lead to upset stomachs or vomiting.
If a special post-surgical diet has been prescribed, follow all instructions carefully.
Limit your pet's exercise. Climbing stairs, jumping or running may open up sutures or cause nausea.
Make sure the sleeping area is clean, warm and free of draughts.
Your veterinary surgeon may prescribe medication to administer during your pet's recovery. Follow all label instructions carefully.
Sutures are usually removed approximately 10 days after surgery. Check the area around the incision daily for redness, swelling or drainage. If you detect any irritation, contact your veterinary surgeon immediately.
Try to keep your pet from licking or chewing on the wound. If this is difficult to do, you might want to provide a physical barrier by placing an 'Elizabethan collar' around the head.
Source :my Vet online

Cat Care...Resources
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( Should You Declaw Your Cat ? )

Author: Ken Charnely

As you begin to read through this informative article, give each point a chance to sink in before you move on to the next. Cats are born with claws, the same way that humans are born with fingernails and toe nails. Cats need claws in order to mark or scratch a specific place or territory that they have been in. Humans need finger nails to, scratch themselves or others, or for opening a letter envelope. Cats basically stretch their agile bodies in order to prepare their muscles when they dig their claws deeply into wood perhaps or a tree, and then they pull back from their hold. Scratching is a basic physiological need of cats. To claw or declaw, that is the question! So do cats need to be declawed? If cat owners truly care for the welfare of their cats, they would have to think twice on declawing their cats. Declawing, what is it? Declawing is done by taking away all the front claws of a cat. In a way this procedure is equal to the amputation of all the finger tips of a human being. For cats this surgery is painful and, for someone who is walking on all fours, terribly unnecessary. Though the recovery of declawed cats may only take a few weeks or so, its physical and psychological effects could last a cat's lifetime. The following are the possible results once a cat has been declawed. Ouch, ouch and ouch: Immediately after surgery, declawed cats suffer severe pain, though it is quite impossible to gauge how much pain they are experiencing. Declawed cats could be considered as amputees. Cats usually try to go on with their cat lives even with pain unless the pain eventually becomes unbearable. Although they may look and act normal does not mean they are free from aches. Complications after the surgery: After the surgery, declawed cats usually experience one of the following post-surgery effects: presence of abscess, feelings of lameness, claw re-growth. Based on studies performed on declawed cats, it has been found that twenty five percent of them develop various complications. The same result has been found on cats who went under tenectomy. This is also a form of surgery that is currently being offered as an alternative to declawing. It is called this because only the tendons extended on the toes are the ones amputated. Stiffness of the joints: Cats that are declawed experience stiffness of the joints since the tendons that manipulate the toes retract because of the surgery. As time goes by, these same joints freeze and ultimately they will no longer be able to extend their toes. It has been thought though that cats really do not miss their claws since they also "scratch" continually even if they no longer have anything to scratch with. However, this act is really the cats' way to stretch those frozen joints. Catarthritis: Believe it or not, research shows that declawed cats immediately shift the weight of their bodies to the back and onto the larger pad in the front of their feet, away from their toes. The result is still evident despite giving these cats strong anti-pain relievers. If such an effect continues after declawing, the cat will ultimately stress its own joints in the leg, its spine and eventually suffer from arthritis. Cats who cannot claw, bite: Since the natural instinct of cats is to claw especially when threatened or scared, in the absence of claws cats are forced to resort to another form of defense - their teeth. Declawed cats that are aggressive naturally are more prone to biting. Declawed cats have no "nine lives". There is a serious risk of death for cats that are declawed. Death could be brought on by the anesthesia they received, or any complications in surgery or hemorrhage. Declawed cats that resort to biting run the risk of being abandoned by their owners. These cats could then be put in a shelter, and since they turn to biting, the probability of being adopted becomes slim. Usually un-adoptable cats are put to sleep or they are used to train dogs to fight usually as bait. In summary, cats are extremely and highly trainable to be taught to use a post for scratching instead of common household furniture, rugs or curtains. Though declawing cats is one of the options a cat owner can take, it is basically an unkind and a very animal-unfriendly thing to do. It all depends on the cat owner whether Kitty is more (or less than) valuable than that expensive Italian rug - the choice is theirs. Understanding this article is a good way to fully appreciate the complexity of this subject. About the author: Ken Charnely is webmaster at two of Internet's popular article directories. For more articles on this topic and for free content for your website visit ArticleTeller.com and ContentWOW.com

Constipation and Your Cat

Constipation is relatively common in cats (normal feline colon). While middle-aged and older cats (cats over 8 years) are more susceptible, cats of any age can become constipated. Although there is no absolute rule on the number of bowel movements a cat should have each day, most healthy adult cats have one or two. Veterinarians suspect constipation when a cat has no (or very infrequent) bowel movements, when it strains while attempting to defecate, and when it has a significantly decreased amount of stool.(image enlarged megacolon)
Constipation, in and of itself, is not a disease. It is, however, a sign that all is not well within the cat's gastrointestinal tract. And if not attended to promptly, constipation can become a debilitating and serious condition. If you suspect your cat has not had a bowel movement for several days, it's time to consult your veterinarian.
Often owners don't realize anything is amiss until constipation is considerably advanced - with obvious signs of distress such as frequent trips to the litter box, straining to defecate (tenesmus), and painful defecation (dyschezia). Behaviors include crying and licking the genital- anal area., These signs, too, can be misleading. When a client calls our office and states that my cat's been in and out of the box three or four times in the last hour, the client is always assuming it's constipation, whereas 90 percent of the time it's a urinary obstruction , especially if it's a male cat. And a urinary obstruction, unlike constipation, is an emergency.
As constipation progresses, the signs become more pronounced. The cat may lose its appetite, become lethargic, look unkempt, begin to crouch and hunch up because of abdominal discomfort, and possibly even vomit. Contrary to what you would expect, the cat may even pass a small amount of runny, blood-tinged diarrhea.
We tend to use the term constipation generically to describe not one but three distinct condition: constipation, obstipation, and megacolon. And although the three conditions have much in common, they also have significant differences. So veterinarians treat them differently.
Constipation and obstipation are the most closely related conditions and can be viewed as different points on a continuum. Constipation is the stage when the cat has obvious difficulty passing a stool. Obstipation is when the cat is very blocked (severely impacted) and unable to have any bowel movement at all. The causes of constipation and obstipation are many, including diet (ingested hair, foreign bodies, bones); environment (a dirty litter box, lack of exercise, hospitalization); painful defecation (anal abscesses from cat-fight bites or feces- matted hair [long-haired cats are particularly susceptible]); obstructions (tumors and improperly healed pelvic fractures that restrict movement through the intestines); and medications (for other conditions). And watch your cat's weight. Obese cats can become constipated.
Chronic constipation and obstipation from specific causes can result in a distended colon that has poor movement (megacolon). Sometimes, though, megacolon. occurs when the muscular movement of the colon wall, which propels fecal material through the colon, diminishes for some unknown reason. As a result, fecal matter comes remains in the colon where it becomes drier and harder. Over time, the enlarged, impacted colon loses most of its muscular ability (motility) and becomes a loose pouch filled with dry, concrete like material. Unfortunately, veterinary science has yet to discover the causes of this condition known as idiopathic megacolon.
Treatment for constipation is two pronged: first, relieve the constipation from recurring either by removing the cause of the constipation or by medically managing the cat. Relief for the constipated cat can occur naturally through induced defecation with enemas and glycerin infused into the colon, or, if the cat is severely impacted, through manual removal of the hardened feces under anesthesia.
Any cat that has been constipated for several days may also be very dehydrated. So before staring any procedure, your veterinarian may give your cat subcutaneous or intravenous replacement fluids. Rehydration with intravenous fluid may also be necessary to help renurish the colon with electrolytes and fluids.
Removing the stool of a severely impacted cat takes time and patience. Once a cat has been cleaned out, most veterinarians immediately put the cat on a program of medical management.
Medical management for cats with chronic constipation typically has both a dietary and medical component. The dietary component usually involves putting the cat on a higher fiber diet. Fiber absorbs water thereby creating looser, bulkier stools. That shortens the transit time in the gastrointestinal tract and keeps things moving. While you want to increase the amount of fiber in your cat's diet, you don't want to overdo it. Initially, don't be tempted to switch to the highest-fiber diet you can find. And you should introduce the dietary change gradually, over five to seven days. If you switch your cat too quickly onto a high-fiber diet, your poor feline chum will likely become very uncomfortable with gas pains.
Sources of supplementary fiber include bran, psyllium (Metamucil), and canned pumpkin. Some cats will eat these products, others won't. If your cat will eat them, mix the fiber-rich supplement in with quality canned cat food. However, before you implement any dietary changes, consult your veterinarian to make sure the changes you propose meet your cat's dietary and health needs. (Increased dietary fiber doesn't help every cat.)
Another newer approach along with the above has met with some success. This includes use of two prescription medications lactulose, a medications that softens the stool, and propulcid, a motility modifier. Another medication now used is ranitidine, again with some success.
We, in our practice, have also begun to use acupuncture to treat this disease. This procedure has only been performed in two cases at this time (2-00) and has been successful.
Water consumption is also very important, for the constipation-prone cat. Find out what your cat's water preferences are and accommodate them. Know that canned food has a higher water content than dried food and that milk an have a laxative effect in some (but not all) cats.
If medical management is ineffective, there is another approach-surgery.
Surgery for the treatment of megacolon is a highly successful surgery that returns most cats to a normal life-style. This major surgery is a subtotal colectomy. This involves the removal of most of the colon, then reconnects the remaining ends, allowing the cat to defecate normally. The downside to the surgery is the very small risk of leakage at the point where the ends are rejoined, which can result in life- threatening infection within the abdominal cavity. (Should this occur, your veterinarian can do corrective surgery and treat the infection.) As with any major abdominal surgery, there is always the small risk of other complications. But for most cats, the outcome is very successful.
Finally, how concerned should owners be about constipation? Owners whose cats have a single bout probably do not have to worry. For chronically constipated cats, this condition will require constant attention.
Source : Pets Health

Why is my Cat Vomiting ?

Ron Hines DVM PhD

Many cats and dogs and ferrets are brought to my animal hospital by frowning owners because they have found a mess on the floor. Sometimes it is a rather straightforward project deciding why the pet vomited but it can be quite difficult. Vomiting, like fever, has a myriad of causes. In this article I touch on some that come to mind.
I am always jubilant when owners actually bring me a sample of the material. Many folks can’t bear to do this but the material vomited is often the clearest indication of the cause. Material that is high in mucus tells me that the stomach or high intestine is inflamed. Undigested food can indicate food poisoning, anxiety, or simply over eating. Bile is often present when vomiting is caused by inflammatory bowel disease or pancreatitis. Flecks of bright blood tell me that the stomach is lacerated. If the blood is brown and caramelized I know that the problem is farther down the intestine. Strong digestive odors suggests intestinal obstruction. Bits of aluminum foil, Christmas tree tinsel, Big Mac wrappers, etc. tell me that this is a dietary indiscretion that will be easy to manage. Another important clue is the relationship of vomiting to the pet’s last meal.
When I examine these pets I am careful to look in their mouth for foreign bodies like bones wedged in the throat or enlarged tonsils. I check the color of their gums to be sure they are not shocky and look for the dry gums of dehydration. I take the pet’s temperature (normal dog & cat=101.5-102.5F,normal ferret=103-103.5) and carefully palpate the abdomen to detect an inflamed intestine or abdominal pain. If I develop the opinion that this is probably no more than a passing incident I limit the pets intake to clear fluids for forty eight hours and have the owners bring me collected stool samples from over this period. Many objects that initially cause vomiting are eventually passed in the stool. Vomiting can be curative in itself in that it purges spoiled food and toxins from the stomach and intestine. If I do not think the vomiting is helpful, I send these pets home with trimethobenzamide or Reglan pediatric suppositories to stop the vomission. The following list are some common and not so common causes of vomiting in dogs and cats. Within their groups, they are listed in the order that I encounter them; the most common ones first.
Causes Associated With Things Eaten:
Dietary Indiscretions The most common cause of vomiting in dogs and ferrets (not so in cats) is dietary indiscretions – the eating of garbage, grass, plant leaves, etc. It is amazing the things pets will eat. Many of these are actually separation anxiety cases where a panicky pet eats everything in sight (see article on separation anxiety). Placing these pets on a large dose of petrolatum-based cat laxative helps slide this material out with the stool. These pets need to be monitored carefully for seventy-two hours to be sure the intestine does not block. At the first sign of abdominal distress, depression, general weakness, fever or blood in vomitus or stool, they should be taken to a veterinarian for further testing.
Diet Change For reasons that have never been clear to me, changing a dog or cats and ferret’s diet from one brand to another often causes a few days of vomission. This problem is worse when the diet is changed to a bargain-priced generic chow high in indigestible protein, rendering plant meal and roughage but it occurs even when the change is from one name brand to another. This problem can be avoided by making the change gradually.
Eating Too Rapidly Dogs, cats and ferrets that are not fed frequently enough or feel competition from other pet members may vomit undigested food soon after eating. Feed these pets smaller, more frequent meals and feed them in separate rooms of the house.
Intolerance to Specific Food Items Pets love to beg at the dinner table. The fact that you seem to relish a food item makes it fair game to your pets. Hot dogs, pastrami, pizza, deviled ham and the like get wolfed down fast – but often come back up just as fast. No harm is done. These pets are not actually allergic to these foods. Dogs and cats have a very easy vomit reflex and the slightest irritation of the stomach brings these items back up. If you cannot bear to stop feeding table scraps, feed them in smaller portions. Pleasure is in the eating – not in the portion size.
Food AllergyVeterinary textbooks speak of vomission due to food allergies but I do not recall a true case that I have encountered. Food allergies in cats and dogs generally manifest themselves as itchy skin disease. If the gastrointestinal tract is affected it is much more likely to cause diarrhea.
Disorders Of the Stomach and Small Intestine:
Obstructing objects
Anything that blocks the exit from the stomach will eventually cause vomiting. I never cease to be amazed at what pets will eat. During my thirty-seven years of practice I have removed tennis balls, Christmas ornaments, coins, fishing gear, socks, acorns, rocks, rubber duckys, stage props, jewelry, and bones of all sizes from the stomachs of dogs and cats. Ingestion of foreign objects the most common cause of vomiting in ferrets. Most bones dissolve rapidly in gastric aids without surgery if we can manage the patients long enough. I suppose the most interesting thing I ever removed from an animal was the urethane foam “last will and testament” of Uncle Shmedley, a one thousand pound walrus used in the Sea World Kooky Castle production. Most of these objects I remove with an endoscope, a fiber optical instrument that is passed through the mouth to the stomach. If the object will not easily budge or is too far down the intestine, I remove it surgically.
Acute Gastroenteritis of Ferrets Several bacteria cause infections of the gastrointestinal tract of ferrets that appear as bloody diarrhea, vomiting and dehydration. Stress is often the precipitating factor in these conditions. Ferrets that vomit and pass fluid stools rapidly dehydrate. Dehydration can be fatal in these pets. The first thing I do is give the ferrets large doses of intravenous and subcutaneous fluid. (5% dextrose). I place them on injectable antibiotics, keep them warm and withhold all food and oral liquids. Bacteria most often associated with this problem are salmonella, helicobacter and campylobacter. Because diarrhea and vomission remove these bacteria and their toxins from the body I rarely attempt to lessen them. Instead, I replace the fluids and nutrients as they are lost.
Inflammatory Bowel Disease of Ferrets
In this condition the lining of the stomach and small intestine becomes inflamed and may also ulcerate. Some feel that this problem is a form of autoimmune disease - others that it is due to allergies to various ingredients in a ferret diet (possibly chicken). Perhaps both can play a part. Ferrets with this condition pass frequent loose watery stools and may also vomit. They become very thin. Diagnosis of this condition is often made by elimination of other causes. Exact diagnosis can only be made from biopsies of the pet’s intestine, which may require surgery. Because these symptoms are quite similar to acute and chronic bacterial gastroenteritis of ferrets, stool samples need to be cultured for the bacteria that cause them. When these causes of similar disease have been eliminated, the ferrets usually improve on a regimen of amoxicillin, metronidazole (Flagyl) and prednisolone. This disease is rarely cured but it can be managed. I usually put these pets on Pepto-Bismol and Tagamet as well. It is hard to put weight on them because food moves too rapidly through their intestines and much of the absorptive power of the intestinal lining has been lost. This is why additional vitamins help these pets.
During flare-ups, liquid diets such as AD can be feed. Then, feeding one of the bland diets marketed for similar conditions in cats (i/d, EN, ZD, etc.) often minimizes this problem. Bland diets marked for cats have sufficient protein but those manufactured for dogs contain less than the optimal amount for ferrets. If dog products are used, I suggest that they be supplemented with vitamins, cooked egg whites and cottage cheese. Low intermittent oral doses of corticosteroids such as prednisone are also helpful.
Parasites Immature dogs and cats that have large numbers of roundworms or hookworms may vomit. These kittens and puppies usually have as large potbelly. Hookworms cause vomission by inflaming the lining of the small intestine but roundworms just block the intestine by their mechanical presence. The owners often see long spaghetti-like roundworms in the material vomited up. Hookworms are too small to see. Both these parasites are quickly and safely eliminated with oral pyrantel pamoate (2.5-10mg/lb). Stomach worms of dogs and cats exist but I have never encountered them. I have never seen hookworms or roundworms in ferrets.
Chronic gastritis Certain cats, dogs and ferrets vomit frequently due to an inflamed stomach. Two personality types are involved. One is the animal that regularly eats objectionable objects such as dirt, gravel, feces, leaves bark and wood. Sometimes this is a response to boredom. We call this condition pica and I cannot say what is going through these pet’s minds. The second group of pets is high-strung and somewhat neurotic. They are usually thin and often have dry hair coats. They often also have bouts of diarrhea and can never tolerate changes in their diets. When I think of this condition I think of German shepherds and Siamese cats and ferrets of any age. The first group of pets has to be supervised at all times. Some veterinarians give them mega doses of B-vitamins to try to alleviate pica. The second group is best fed a very bland monotonous diet. The corticosteroid drugs, prednisone or prednisolone also helps this second group.
Gastric Dilatation-volvulus Deep-chested breeds of dogs will occasionally have their stomach flip over on itself causing a kink at either end. When this happens, the stomach quickly over inflates with gas. These dogs try to vomit but cannot. They appear quite ill because circulation to the stomach is cut off. This is a life and death emergency. The animal rapidly goes into shock and becomes toxic. Under light sedation I pass a stomach tube into their stomachs to relive the bloat. Then I open the dogs up, replace the stomach to its proper position and sew it to the abdominal wall so it the problem can not reoccur.
Two other forms of knotting of the small intestine, volvulus and intussuception also cause vomiting. Volvulus is a spinning round of the intestine causing it to kink. Intussusception is a folding in of the intestine upon itself. In both cases food cannot pass and circulation to that portion of the bowel is interrupted. Some people call this a strangulated intestine. I correct both these problems surgically.
Tumors of the Stomach and IntestinesIn old debilitated dogs, cats and ferrets vomiting can be a sign of tumors of the stomach or small intestine. These tumors can be large fleshy masses or subtle infiltration of the walls of the stomach and intestine with cancerous cells. I see more of these cases in cats and ferrets than in dogs. Often I can feel the tumor through the abdominal wall (see article on cancer in pets in this series). If I am uncertain of the diagnosis I give these pets oral barium sulfate (contrast medium) and then X-ray them periodically as the barium moves through the stomach and intestines. The contrast medium outlines the shape of tumors that would normally be invisible on X-ray. I usually make the final diagnoses by surgically opening the animal and removing samples of the stomach and intestine to be sent to a pathologist. We call this procedure an exploratory laparotomy. These tumors are usually malignant and not good candidates for surgery. I try to convince the owners to euthanize these pets - it is the least you can do to prevent suffering of an old friend.
Metabolic Disorders:
Kidney Disease And UremiaIn older pets with failing kidneys, toxic products build up in the blood stream causing depression, nausea and vomission. Earlier in uremia, pets keep their bodies cleansed of waste products by drinking and urinating excessively. Although their kidneys have lost much of their ability to concentrate wastes in the urine, the large quantities of dilute urine produced maintain their metabolic equilibrium. Eventually excessive drinking no longer suffices and blood levels of urea and creatinine reach toxic amounts at which vomiting occurs. At this stage of kidney disease, ulcers also form in the stomach and small intestine. Pets with this problem are noticeably ill. They are usually dehydrated, thin and anemic. Administering large quantities of intravenous fluids (diuresis) correct the situation for a while but eventually these pets pass away. Kidney transplantation has been performed successfully in cats to cure uremia. These are cats that suffered acute kidneys loss due to consuming antifreeze. The procedure is much less successful in cases of chronic kidney disease where other organs have been damaged over time.
Liver DiseaseLiver disease in dogs, cats and ferret is another cause of vomission. Liver damage can occurs as the result of eating poisonous products or through bacterial and viral infection. These pets are often jaundiced or yellow. Stool specimens from these animals may be light in color or deep yellow. Blood enzymes associated with liver damage are usually quite elevated. They may also show excessive thirst, weight loss, prolonged bleeding time and fluid buildup in their abdomens. Many of these pets respond to treatment and go on to live relatively normal lives and when they do vomission ceases. Some need long-term specialty bland diets to lessen the workload of the liver.
Heat StrokeHeat stroke is common in dogs with flat faces and longhaired breeds left in the sun too long in the hot summer months. Over heating is extremely common in ferrets but not in cats. These pets are giddy. Their breath is rapid and shallow and they often vomit and produce diarrhea. They are depressed, have rapid heart rates and may collapse or have seizures. Their body temperatures can be as high as 109F. I lower their core body temperature as rapidly as I can by immersing them in ice water.
Adrenal Gland DiseaseHypoadrenocorticism or Addison’s disease is a condition in which the two adrenal glands produce insufficient cortisone. A common sign of this disease is vomiting – especially during times of stress. The most common form of this disease is probably a form of autoimmunity in which the body destroys its own tissue. Other signs of this disease are depression, diarrhea, hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), low blood pressure, muscular weakness and an increase in white blood cells called lymphocytes. Pets may drink excessively. It is a disease with very vague symptoms, which is why it is frequently misdiagnosed. The problems tends to wax and wane, appearing to be a digestive problem one time and a kidney problem another. Dogs and cats with the problem are usually between 4-8 years old. No one breed is more susceptible to the disease than another, but about 70% of pets with this problem are female.
Other Disease:
Motion SicknessMany pets vomit when they are first taken on car rides. The best way to prevent this is to not feed them before travel. Rolling a car window down slightly to encourage a dog or cat to look out also helps. After a number of car rides the condition usually ceases. When it continues to be a problem the pet can be given Dramamine (dimenhydrinate at 2-4 mg/pound in dogs and 10 mg per cat or ferret) before travel.
Feline HyperthyroidismA common sign of elevated thyroid hormone in cats is vomission. The disease usually strikes middle-aged cats. These pets are thin and hyperactive. (see article on hyperthyroidism in cats in this series).
PancreatitisSudden inflammation of the pancreas causes frequent vomiting. Dogs presented to me with this condition are usually middle-aged and plump. Schnauzers and standard dachshunds are the most common breeds that I see affected. Often they have recently eaten a very fatty meal. I have not encountered this disease in cats or ferrets. These dogs are depressed and their tummies are tight and painful. They are often dehydrated due to vomiting. Some have diarrhea. X-rays of these pets have a hazy “ground glass” appearance characteristic of this disease and peritonitis. When I draw blood from these dogs the plasma is often very milky in color due to increased cholesterol and triglycerides in the blood. High pancreatic enzymes are the signature test for this disease. These tests for pancreatic enzymes (amylase, lipase) are quite elevated and the dogs usually have elevated kidney and liver tests as well as elevated white blood cell counts. Much of the elevation in test results is due to the profound dehydration that accompanies this disease.
My first step in treating pancreatitis is to rehydrate the dogs with intravenous fluids, stop the vomission with medications and decrease pancreatic inflammation with corticosteroids. When I have done this I withhold food and water for 3-4 days to allow the pancreas to “rest”. Most veterinarians, including myself, place these dogs on antibiotics of the penicillin/cephalosporin class. I cannot explain the rational for this – we just do it. After 3-4 days I being them back on oral fluids and foods very slowly. Relapses months and years later are common. The best way to prevent them is to feed these pets a high carbohydrate, low fat diet.
Middle and Inner Ear DiseaseEar infections that have migrated to the inner ear affect the organs of balance and can cause vomiting. A much more common sign is head tilt to the affected side (see articles on ear infections and surgery in this series).
Feline Heartworm DiseaseFor reasons that are unclear, heartworm disease in cats often causes asthmaticsigns and vomission. Heartworm disease in cats is quite uncommon. I have never seen a case. Please read Threads at bottom of this article.
Physical Disorders:
Diaphragmatic herniaSometimes vomiting is the only sign of a tear in the diaphragm. A disrupted diaphragm can be a congenital disease that the pet was born with or it can occur as the result of a car accident. Dogs and cats with this problem tend to vomit shortly after eating. They vomit when portions of the stomach or small intestine become trapped in the tear. X-rays pick up this problem. I become suspicious of diaphragmatic hernias when a pet is reluctant to lie down and becomes agitated when its rear end is elevated higher than its shoulders. Diaphragmatic hernias are surgically repaired.
Recently, an organism call Bartonella has been implicated in chronic digestive inflammation in cats. The diagnosis of Bartonella infection is made using a laboratory test called the Wesern Blot. When cats are positive for this organism it can be sucessfully treated using azithromycin, doxycycline or rifampin.
Source : All Creature Care

INTRODUCING A NEW CAT

...Sarah Hartwell

The conventional wisdom is that the best way to introduce a new cat or kitten to a resident pet is to put the two together and let them sort it out themselves. When a 6 week old kitten was introduced to Doug Smith's family cat, Minou, the adult cat boxed the kittens ears and chased it into a corner. The terrified kitten wet itself. Having established who was boss, the two became good friends and even hunted co-operatively. While the "sudden introduction" may be successful for some animals, it is more likely to cause stress and physical injury. The sudden introduction may result in a fight. The loser may simply leave home or, if confined indoors, may retreat to one room as far away as possible from the other. The more dominant personality may continue to bully it for as long as the cats live in the same household (at this point, an indoor-outdoor cat would probably leave home). Having retreated, the loser is likely to develop behavioural problems such as house-soiling. The worst case scenario had been the death of the cat or kitten when carelessly introduced to a dog that is not used to cats and not used to sharing its territory. The problems can be frequently be avoided by carefully managed introductions.
Introductions can be quite nerve racking. Even if your intention is to get another pet to keep your current cat or dog company after the death of a previous companion animal, your current pet is less likely to welcome a newcomer with open paws! Some cats (and dogs) have very laid back temperaments and may welcome newcomers, especially if the newcomer is young or more submissive in temperament. However, for the safety of the existing residents and the newcomer(s) alike, they should be introduced carefully until you are certain they have accepted each other. The following guidelines and hints have been drawn from the experience of various people, including myself, and can be adapted to suit different household situations. Hopefully they will help you to introduce a new cat or kitten to your existing pets with the minimum of stress and anxiety for all parties - including yourself.
Caution: Most cats will accept a newcomer given time, patience and understanding. However, sometimes a newcomer will not settle or the resident cat(s) will refuse to accept him (him means "him or her" throughout this article). Perhaps your existing cat(s) are fiercely territorial or possibly the newcomer, though friendly with people, cannot tolerate other cats (or not tolerate a dog). If this happens, you should seriously consider rehoming the newcomer otherwise all of the pets will become stressed and may develop behavioural problems. If the newcomer cannot tolerate other pets, make this clear when you return him to the animal shelter or you seek a new home for him.
This article deals first with cat-to-cat introduction and general advice on settling in a new cat. Cat-to-dog introductions are dealt with further down the page.
HOW MANY CATS?
The number of cats in a single household depends on their personalities, the available space and your ability to keep the house hygienic. Cats, even sociable cats, like their own space. Overcrowding will cause stress and some or all of the cats will become ill or cranky as a result. Most readers will have heard of "cat collectors" or "animal hoarders" who have too many cats in too little space and who are soon overwhelmed by the task of cleaning up. As a rough guide, the average British 3 bedroom house can accommodate 2-3 cats without causing overcrowding. More than this depends on the cats' personalities.
INTROVERT AND EXTROVERT CATS
Unlike dogs, cats have not evolved to be pack animals. Many cats are quite happy to be solitary even if the owner prefers to have several cats around. The likelihood that a cat will accept a companion depends on its individual personality. At one end of the personality spectrum, a confident, extrovert cat is more likely to be friendly and to settle well. He is also more likely to accept others readily. His outgoing personality means he will approach newcomers with curiosity rather than mistrust or jealousy. At the other extreme, a timid, introverted cat will be cautious and more fearful of strange cats. He may be more aggressive towards another pet. It may take weeks of carefully managed short meetings, persuasion and bribes before a timid cat is confident enough to remain in the same room with the newcomer.
Most cats fall between these extremes. In addition, some cats simply will not tolerate other cats in their territory and will fiercely defend the territory against the intruder. There is no point trying to force such cats to be sociable as it will make all parties unhappy and your house is likely to become a war zone. Some cats, though they do not become best of friends, will live alongside one another in a state of truce. There may be smack-fights if they encounter each other unexpectedly e.g. in a doorway, but otherwise they tolerate or ignore each other. Provided there is no competition for food or sleeping places, the house remains harmonious. Conversely, some cats form close bonds with each other, playing, sleeping and even hunting together.
Conventional wisdom states that cats will more easily accept a feline newcomer of the opposite gender as this reduces competition. If the cats were both neutered before sexual maturity, the genders are less important. It is also usually advised that resident cats will better accept younger feline newcomers as the youngsters pose less threat. This depends on the personalities involved. A kitten or young cat may be too overpowering for a sedate oldie. With a bit of common sense, cats have accepted newcomers of all ages. If you keep geriatric cats and plan to introduce another oldie you may find they have lost their competitive streak and are far more interested in regular mealtimes and warm, comfortable sleeping places than in asserting their authority over each other.
While it may be a matter of feline choice as to whether cats get on, how you introduce a new cat or kitten into your home and to a resident cat or cats can make the difference between success or failure. Once a relationship becomes violent or very fearful and the cat feels threatened, it can be very difficult to change the behaviour patterns. Thus careful introductions which prevent excessive reactions and take things slowly are vital. Here are some factors involved in bringing cats together successfully:
WHEN TO INTRODUCE A NEW CAT
Introductions should be done at a quiet time when the household is calm and will remain calm for a few weeks. Avoid busy times such as parties or visits from relatives or friends. This does not mean your mum can't pop round for a cup of tea, it refers to visits extending into several days when you will have less time for interacting with pets.
THE SAFE ROOM OR PEN
Ideally, give the new cat his own room to begin with. He needs to settle in to this "safe room" before meeting other pets. The room must be made escape-proof and safe. Block any chimneys/fireplaces and if it is necessary to open a window for ventilation, fit a mesh panel (make it secure so that the cat cannot dislodge it). If the room has a cat flap, make sure it can be physically blocked, not merely locked shut. The best way to block it is to fit a sliding panel over it, either one that can be locked into place or on the OUTSIDE of the door. Switch off gas or electric fires and make sure there are no cables to be chewed (or they are tucked out of the way).
Kittens have a special tendency to get under-foot or become victims of their own curiosity and lack of common sense. In a busy household they can easily get trodden on, tripped over or otherwise injured. A safe room is essential except when the household is quiet and you can watch or supervise them.
If your home is the sort where some rooms have glass panelled doors, it would be an advantage if the safe room is one of the rooms. This allows the newcomer and the resident pets to look at each other through the glass. Don't worry if you don't have such doors as there are plenty of other ways to start the introductions when the time comes. A windowsill or a seat allowing a view through the window are more important - the cat will want to start surveying his new territory and getting used to the comings and goings of others.
The safe room must be equipped with a cat bed or some description (a blanket-lined box, old armchair etc are fine if you don't have cat baskets). A hiding place (e.g. under the bed or a large upturned box with a hole in the side) is also essential as cats like to hide while they take stock of their new surroundings. Food and water bowls are essential. The litter tray should be placed as far away from the cat's sleeping place and the feeding place as possible. Like us, cats don't want to sleep and eat in the toilet (particularly in a toilet that can't be flushed). A scratching post or pad is advisable as are some toys.
If you think the room gets cold at night, there are a wide variety of heat-pads (electric, microwavable, simple thermal pads or fleeces) available or you could use a hot water bottle wrapped in towel. A battery radio (or mains powered if the cable can be tucked out of the way) tuned to a talk station (e.g. UK's Radio 4) can be used to provide company when the cat is in the room alone. Preparations need not be elaborate - just common sense!
If a safe room isn't possible because of lack of rooms or an open plan home, the alternative is a kitten pen (or kittening pen). Kitten pens are metal mesh pens approximately 1 metre x 1 metre square and 0.75 - 1 metre tall. They are collapsible and have plastic bases that are easy to clean and prevents the occupant from scratching the carpet in an attempt to dig his way out! The dimensions vary depending on the supplier. Some of the large dog crates that fit inside estate cars are suitable as long as the occupant cannot escape through the mesh and there is enough room for bed, food, water and litter tray. Large chinchilla cages might also suitable as long as its door is large enough. If you are only using the pen for short introductions (e.g. to a dog) then a smaller crate with a blanket in it will be fine as the newcomer will be spending most of his time in the safe room. It is possible to make your own kitten pens so long as there are no protruding bits of wire to cause injury. Whatever type cage you use, the door must be able to be shut securely (if in doubt, a strong bulldog clip usually does the trick). The cat inside the kitten pen can see what is going on around it, but feels safe inside the cage.
To make a kitten pen feel more secure, at least to begin with, you can put a sheet, blanket or curtain over the top and around two or three sides. One side should be left uncovered so that the newcomer and the existing residents can see each other. They will want to sniff each other through the mesh, try to put a paw through and will probably hiss or growl at each other. However they cannot attack or physically intimidate each other.
ARRIVAL DAY
Unless the newcomer is a stray who has been coming in through the cat flap and has made his own arrangements with amicable resident cats (and this is surprisingly common!) you will need to prepare for arrival day. Make sure the safe room or kitten pen contains all the necessities detailed earlier and whatever optional extras are common sense. He may want to hide away to begin with, in which case leave him alone for a few hours to explore in his own time. If he actively explores the room while you are there and he wants attention, by all means sit in the room (floor level or cat height is best) and talk to him, or pet him if he comes to you for fuss. Don't force him to interact with you though - there will be time for that later on and it is better for him to come to you. Instead, spend time with existing pets so that the newcomer is not seen as a threat to the attention they are used to.
When you spend time with the newcomer, try to do so at his level so that he can come to you for petting. Talk gently and move slowly - take things at his pace. To begin with, he may wish to sniff you, but not be stroked. Don't be alarmed if he hides under furniture or in his bed - even if he seems to be dozing, his mind will be processing the new sights, smells and sounds around him. Leave him in his hiding place - he will come out in his own time. Don't trying to force him out as he will become frightened and you may be injured. Unless you are expert at reading feline body language, don't crawl under the bed (or wherever) with him to give him fuss as he may feel threatened. As long as he eats, drinks and uses the litter tray (be patient about any early accidents which will be due to nervousness) he will be fine. Some cats take longer than others to settle into a new environment.
At first you may wish to keep the existing pets away from the door in case they, or the newcomer, become anxious. However they will almost certainly start sniffing each other through the gap under the door.
FOOD AND LITTER TRAY
If you've adopted your new cat from a shelter or a friend, you should have some idea about the diet he is used to. Try to feed him at the same times (as far as your household routine permits) and on the same food - if the same brand is not available or affordable, try to stick to the same flavours at least. Once he's settled in, you can start varying his diet, but to start with he has more than enough new experiences to cope with! For the first few days he might be off his food a little, in which case a little boiled fish or cooked chicken might tempt him. Don't disturb him while he is eating (this includes not vacuum cleaning right up to the other side of the door). When he eats in your presence, this is a sign that he has accepted you. Water should be available all the time.
The litter tray should be cleaned after use if possible or twice daily (morning and evening) if this isn't possible. Use a type of litter that is familiar to him. If he isn't used to litter, you may wish to use earth though this is not ideal (earth can be sterilised in a baking tray in a hot oven before use). A few accidents are to be expected, but if he consistently fails to use the tray then it is most likely in the wrong place (too exposed, too close to food, water or bed) or the type of litter is unsuitable. Sometimes the smell of detergent or disinfectant may put cats off. More rarely it is marking behaviour. Some cats are so interested in their new surroundings that they simply need a couple of reminders about where the tray is so they can get there quickly though this is not usually a problem in a single room or a pen. One suggestion for reinforcing litter tray behaviour is to remove the solids as usual, but to leave wet patches in the litter for 24 hours to build up an odour association. Sometimes a little of the wet litter needs to be sprinkled onto the clean litter after you have cleaned the litter tray.
HANDLING
When he seems ready i.e. he is exploring his surroundings, seems relaxed and is hiding only occasionally, you can start handling him properly. Not all cats enjoy being lifted or held, but are happy to sit beside you to be stroked or groomed. These are boundaries that the cat will set, though he may relax them over a longer period of time. You have to respect these boundaries. You can also let other human members of the family introduce themselves to the newcomer one at a time (supervise younger children).
SCENT MIXING
Stroking and fussing helps to mix scents. After stroking the newcomer, stroke your existing pets. After stroking your existing pets, stroke the newcomer. This way all the scents mix on all the animals to establish a "household scent" or "family smell" (if you have dogs, the dogs understand it as the "pack scent" which distinguishes between "part of my family" and "not part of my family"). Scent mixing allows all members of the household to recognise each other as family. Gather scents from around the cat's head area by gently stroking it with a soft cloth. You can then wipe this cloth over furniture, door-posts and other pets.
After a day or two, take an item of bedding from the new cat's room and an item from an existing cat's bed and exchange them so that the cats can smell each other. Sacrifice some old towels or t-shirts if they don't have loose bedding. If possible, rub them down with each others bedding so the smells mingle. Some people swear by rubbing the cats down with catnip (to give them a common scent) before any face-to-face meetings.
FACE TO FACE
If the cats have been able to see each other through a glass door, they will probably already have sized each other up and read each other's body language. Hopefully you will already have some idea about how they will react to each other when the door is opened.
If it is possible to use a screen door on the newcomer's room so that the cats can see and sniff each other but not touch, that is helpful. They can be allowed to meet through the screen or mesh after about a week. If not, the first meeting should be carefully supervised with the cats being distracted with food treats so they associate the meeting with rewards. Some hissing and spitting is normal and they are each likely to retreat to a safe place to think things over. If, each time the cats meet, there is immediate serious fighting (e.g. with one cat ending up on its back) rather than just nose-smacking and ear-boxing then things are unlikely to work and it is unfair on your existing cat to force them together. You can expect growls and hisses while they sort things out between themselves. Always give your existing cat reassurance as it is his territory and you are asking him to accept an interloper.
If you are using a kitten pen then the resident cat can have free access while the newcomer is in the pen. Over several days they will gradually get used to each other. At first, feed both cats at the same time, but with the newcomer inside the pen and your existing cat outside the pen. You can then start letting the newcomer out of the pen, perhaps feeding both cats in the same room.
If early meetings deteriorate into fights or chases, with one cat seeking a safe hiding place, then things are very unlikely to work out, however hard you try to make the cats accept each other. You will need several supervised meetings (2 or 3 times daily) with each meeting being longer than the previous if possible. A good result is when the cats ignore each other. A superb result is when they groom each other or settle down together. If they do get on at this point, you can let the new cat spend more of his time out of the safe room, maybe just keeping him in there at night for the next several days until you are certain that there won't be any fighting.
The new cat also needs to explore some more of the house while your existing cat is restricted to one room with a member of the household to fuss him so he doesn't notice the temporary confinement (or some toys and food to distract him). This allows the newcomer to explore without feeling threatened. You'll need to do this several times while the new cat learns the house layout and smells and while the existing cat gets used to the new smells the newcomer leaves behind when he rubs against things. At this point, if the existing cat goes crazy (rather than just being inquisitive) about the new smells then it may not work out. Either cat might spray once or twice as a signal to the other (this is annoying, but should be cleaned e.g. with biological clothes washing powder dissolved in hot water), but if the spraying is frequently repeated then the cats are unlikely to accept each other. When the new cat is allowed the run of the house, the cat flap must be locked shut and all windows securely shut or screened with mesh or there is a risk of losing him.
When the newcomer is introduced to other cats you can expect some or all of the following: the cats may freeze, bristle the fur along their backs, puff up their tails to appear larger, show their side view (so they look bigger than they really are), flatten their ears, growl, hiss or paw the floor. Most of this is bluff as cats prefer not to risk getting injured by fighting. They are sizing each other up. These initial reactions are usually sorted out by eye to eye contact and quite possibly a lot of swearing and the odd smacked nose or boxed ear. Once they've stared each other down, they will work out the hierarchy as one cat retreats extremely slowly. Make sure there is an escape route for the retreating cat. Just in case of actual serious fighting (which happens if neither cats backs down), it's a good idea to have a blanket ready to separate the cats without risking injury yourself or a water pistol to distract them from fighting long enough for you to separate them.
Introductions at meal times are generally calmer as the cats are focussed on the food and not on each other though there may be some growling regarding ownership of food bowls. Cats can't fight and eat at the same time, but they can still swear and eat at the same time! Once they begun to accept each other you can let them eat together as this usually reinforces or hastens their acceptance of each other. You may wish to put an obstacle in between their feeding bowls to begin with so that they can't properly see each other. Gradually move the bowls closer together until you can eventually remove the obstacle. An extrovert newcomer will quickly find and accept a communal eating place, but less confident cats generally prefer to eat at a distance for a while. However, if you use their favourite foods and offer it to both cats at the same time, they will usually overcome their caution of each other (they may even sniff or lick each other after the meal). Eating together helps integration, especially if the cats associate communal eating with their favourite foods!
Don't expect the cats to become close buddies, especially not at first. They will find their own sleeping spots around the house and may choose to avoid each other for much of the time. Their tolerance of each other may increase dramatically when food is available or when it's cold or wet outside, but warm and cosy in the living room. Once they show signs that they are not going to fight or chase, but instead find their own sleeping spots and meet each other without aggression, then they can be allowed to cohabit without supervision. For most cats this only takes a few weeks. Sometimes it may only take a few days. For other cats it may take a lot longer. However, the longer the cats go without tolerating or accepting each other, the less likely the are to ever accept each other and it is far wiser to rehome the newcomer rather than try to force the issue. The cats may have "only cat" personalities or, if you already have more than one cat, one or more cats may be unable to cope with an increased feline population in the house.
OUTDOORS
If your cats have access to outdoors you will eventually want to let the newcomer explore the garden. After 3 or 4 weeks, he will know that your home is his home and he will recognise the smells and the other animals that live there. Before allowing him outside, make sure he has a collar on (even if he is microchipped) so that he can easily be returned if he does get lost. The collar can be dispensed with once he is fully acquainted with the outdoor part of his territory. First introductions to outdoors should be before mealtime (he won't want to go far and risk missing a meal) and you should leave the door open so he can see an obvious route back into the house. If you are concerned that he will stray or is not confident, get him used to wearing a harness while he is still indoors. His first introductions to outdoors can be on a harness and leash and you can accompany him round the garden. He will want to scent mark it by rubbing his cheek on twigs or fences, and possibly by using one of the flowerbeds as a toilet. Scattering some of his used litter (i.e. litter scented his urine) on flowerbeds and at the garden boundaries may help make him feel that your garden is his territory.
Many owners, particularly those near busy roads, fence in part or all of their gardens. Though many cats stay away from traffic noise, not all cats have good road sense (particularly if there are fields or woods on the other side of the road) and a fenced garden is a wise precaution. It also protects your cat from straying dogs.
MEETING DOGS
Dogs and cats are often portrayed as natural enemies. The usual problem is a clash of body language. When a cat runs, the dog's instinct to chase often takes over. When a cat raises a forepaw it is to swipe another cat, but to a dog it is a sign of play. When a cat waves its tail it is a sign of high excitement, frequently anger, but to a dog it is a sign of friendliness. The two species misinterpret each other's body language until they learn it. It is often much easier to introduce a new cat to a dog than to another cat. Though both animals will initially be wary of each other, they do not view the other as a competitor. A dog that is used to cats may be excited when a new cat is introduced, but he will usually quickly settle down and the novelty will wear off. Dogs are pack animals and, if the introduction in properly managed, he will consider the new cat as part of his pack. Many dogs live happily with their own household's cats but will chase strange cats out of the garden, so you must ensure that the new cat is seen as part of the pack.
If the new cat or kitten has previously lived with a dog, it is less likely to be frightened (or at least not frightened for long) and will soon become confident around the dog. Many kittens and bolder adult cats take charge of the situation immediately and boss the resident dog around from the moment they meet. Many dogs can actually be terrified of the new kitten or cat! The cat or kitten may puff up its fur in an attempt to look bigger. Hissing and growling are not unexpected as the cat warns the dog not to bother it. Reassure the dog and keep it calm - the noisy intruder is not going to attack it - and especially keep the dogs from sniffing the cat at this stage otherwise it will learn the hard way and end up with its nose clawed!
Ensure the safety of the cat and the dog when introducing them. You need to control the situation until the dog and cat have got used to one another. Stroke the dog and cat separately but without washing your hands to exchange and mix their scents. This is especially important to make the newcomer gain the "pack scent". A kitten pen is a good idea for first meetings to keep the situation calm and the cat protected from an excitable dog. The dog can sniff the newcomer through the bars and get over its initial excitement. Although the cat may growl, hiss and spit, the pen protects it. If you have a secure pen large enough for the cat's food, water, bed and litter tray then you could put the cat in this at night in the room where the dog sleeps to allow them to get used to each other for a few days to a week. The time it takes for them to get used to each other depends on how used to cats the dog is.
Excitable dogs, or dogs that have not been used to cats, require more careful handling when introductions are made. Obviously, it is not advisable to introduce a cat into a household where an aggressive or very territorial dog may harm it. If the dog is excitable or energetic, it is advisable to take it for a vigourous walk to burn off some of its energy so that the meeting remains calm. At first, the dog must be kept on the lead, kept as calm as possible and made to sit quietly. The new cat should be given a safe position in the room and allowed to get used to the dog and to approach it if it wants. Many cats will approach the dog out of curiosity if it remains calm though this may take a long while and requires a lot of patience. Usually, the dog is more eager to introduce itself, but the cat may regard a direct approach as a threat. If the dog behaves well, it should be rewarded.
If the dog is quieter or used to cats, the introductions may be made using a strong cat carrier. Again, keep the dog on the lead or keep a firm hold of its collar, at least to begin with. Place the carrier on a high surface and allow short, frequent but controlled introductions. Most dogs soon calm down when they realise that the newcomer is not particularly interesting. The cat and dog can then meet outside of the carrier, but with the dog on a lead until it again loses interest.
Unless the individual dog is very placid or used to cats, hunting/chasing breeds, sight hounds and terriers will need to be kept well under control until they have learned that the cat is not "fair game". Dogs have a strong instinct to chase and while the individual may not intend to harm the cat, in catching the cat it may accidentally fatally hurt it (dogs instinctively shake what they catch). Young pups are also likely to get very excited and may try to play with the new cat. The cat is unlikely to want to join in, at least not until it is more confident, and the pup may get its nose swiped. Don't punish the cat. The pup has learnt a valuable lesson - over-enthusiastic approaches are unwelcome. The cat has taught the pup that it is not a toy and the pup will have learnt to respect the cat's boundaries.
Keeping things calm may be hard work as a sudden dash from the cat is likely to trigger the dog's chasing behaviour. Praise your dog for staying calm and sitting quietly and reward its good behaviour with food treats. The dog will come to associate the cat's presence with calm behaviour and with rewards. When you progress to introductions with the dog off the lead, make sure there are high places the cat can escape to where it will feel more safe if the dog becomes noisy or over-enthusiastic. Never leave the dog and cat together unattended until their behaviour shows that they are safe together and that the dog will not treat the cat as prey or as a toy.
Once the cat(s) and dog are established as pack-mates you will have to bear a few things in mind. The cat's food will be tempting for the dog; if possible feed the cat on a ledge out of the way of your scavenging canine. Though it sounds gross, many dogs will eat the excrement of other animals. The contents of the litter tray can also be tempting for a dog so keep the litter tray out of the dog's reach if it is likely to eat the cat's faeces.
FIRST INTRODUCTIONS USING A CARRYING BASKET
If you are concerned that the newcomer and the established cat will end up chasing each other (not a good start for a feline relationship) and you don't have access to a kitten pen, then you can make initial introductions using a cat carrier. Unlike a kitten pen, the cat cannot stay in the carrying basket for long, but it can be used for relatively short introductions.
Place the newcomer in the carrier and let your existing cat come into the room. Place the cat carrier above ground level so that the cats are not forced to make direct eye contact with each other (direct eye contact is a sign of, or can trigger, aggression between cats). When the existing cat comes into the room, give it plenty of attention and calm reassurance. It may decide to run away without investigating the new cat in the carrier. If so, don't force meetings, but let it take meetings at its own pace. It is usually a sign that the cat will not become aggressive towards the newcomer. Most likely it will stay out of the way and gradually accept the new cat over a period of time. If the cats show signs of aggression towards each other, distract them with a noise and calmly reassure them. They will associate non-aggression with reassurance and attention, and with nice titbits, from you. Be careful not to reward aggression.
If you are using a carrier, you must arrange frequent meetings. At first you can feed the cats at the same time; the newcomer will get its food inside the carrier, which must be placed on the floor, and the resident is fed outside the carrier. There may be some initial hissing and spitting, but this should gradually change into curiosity and gradual acceptance over several days or even a few weeks. The time it takes for them to accept each other depends on their personalities and also on how often you arrange meetings so that they can become accustomed to each other
Once you decide to let the newcomer out of the carrier so that it is free in the same room as the existing cat, do so at a mealtime as food will be a distraction. You may decide to delay the normal mealtime for an hour or so to ensure the cats are hungry and likely to concentrate on the food instead of on each other. Choose a room where either cat can get out of the other's way or can hide. Put down the resident cat's food and put the new cat's food some distance away (they don't want to be in each other's faces right away) then let the newcomer out of its basket to eat. Afterwards, the cats may choose to investigate each other or may look for separate sleeping places (this is also a good sign). If they show signs of aggression towards each other, you will need to keep them separate for a bit longer and feed the newcomer in its basket (in the same room as the existing cat) a few more times before you repeat the out-of-basket mealtime introduction.
Once they show signs that they are not going to fight or chase, but instead choose their own favourite sleeping spots and meet each other without aggression, then they can be allowed to cohabit without supervision. For most cats this only takes a few weeks. Sometimes it may only take a few days. For other cats it may take a lot longer. The longer the cats go without tolerating or accepting each other, the less likely the are to ever accept each other. They may have "only cat" personalities or, if you already have more than one cat, one or more cats may be unable to cope with an increased feline population in the house. Such cats should not be forced to live together as it will only cause stress for all parties, including yourself. Where the cats cannot accept each other, it is kinder the rehome the newcomer however much you may have wanted him.
INTRODUCING A STRAY
Firstly, be sure that you are adopting a genuine stray and not somebody's indoor-outdoor pet. Many cats enjoy multiple homes, ensuring that there is alternative accommodation if their real owner is on holiday or working late. Some spend their day enjoying the hospitality of several households while the owner thinks his cat is out hunting! Genuine strays tend to look unkempt, nervous and may be unneutered. Before becoming attached to an apparent stray, get the vet to check him for a microchip or ear tattoo. Check with the local animal shelters and any notice-boards in case there is a "Lost Cat" notice that matches the stray's description. If no immediate owner can be found, place an elasticated collar on the stray with the note "Am I a stray?" and your phone number. Not all owners are observant, especially if their cat is notorious for roaming, and it may be days or weeks before anyone contacts you. At the time of writing I have a "time-share" cat who wore a collar and "am I a stray?" tag for 6 weeks before anyone phoned me. By that time the cat had more-or-less moved in and both households are resigned (amicably) to a time-share cat.
Before taking in a stray, get the vet to give it a health check and flea treatment so that it doesn't bring illness into your household. If it has been surreptitiously moving in while you are asleep or at work, many of the introduction stages will already be over. By then, your own cats will either have accepted it or driven it away.
The newcomer may have managed the initial stages of meeting (either indoors or in the garden) without your knowledge, in which case allowing it to move in is merely a formality. If it has previously been shooed outdoors or been unable to enter the house, you will need to follow one or other of the introduction methods detailed above as your existing cats may have been willing to share their outdoor territory with the stray, but need to get used to sharing their indoor territory as well.
Source : MessyBeast

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.9--2007

Joan's Cat

Cat Care...Article

( Cat Poisoning - What You Need To Know )

Many kinds of poisons from many sources can kill cats. Sometimes the poisoning occurs when a cat consumes a toxic substance. Other times it is the result of a cats self-grooming and ingesting poison. For example, a cat may walk through a rodent tracking powder, a petroleum product or antifreeze and consequent consumption of the toxic substance occurs during grooming. Still other poisons may be absorbed through the skin, particularly petroleum-based chemicals or coal-tar products.
Unless the cat has been seen consuming the poison, it may be difficult to diagnose the cause as rapidly as is desirable. Prevention is the best means of protecting your cat.The following information is by no means complete as it lists some of the more common poisons. It is presented as an alert to keep toxic substances away from cats and to help you assess a situation in which you think your cat may have been accidentally poisoned.
Dangerous Household Products Here are examples of potentially toxic products found in the home:
Cleaning and household supplies: ammonia, bleach, cleaning fluids and disinfectants, drain cleaner, soaps and detergents, mothballs and matches.Garage items: gasoline, kerosene, brake fluid, windshield wiper fluid and antifreeze. Many cats are attracted to the sweet taste of antifreeze and lap it up when it is spilled on the ground or not properly stored.
Agricultural products: insecticides, rodenticides, herbicides, fungicides, snail or slug bait, worm and mollusk toxicants and plant growth hormones.Workshop supplies: paints, paint thinners and removers, wood preservatives and mineral spirits.
Medicines: aspirin, acetaminophen (Tylenol and other similar products), diet pills, sleeping pills, tranquilizers, laxatives and rubbing alcohol.
Cosmetics deodorants, hair coloring, nail polish and remover, permanent wave lotion, suntan lotion, hair spray and perfumes.
Other hazards: scrapings from lead-based paints; contaminated food; water from toilet bowels, especially if chemically treated.
To protect a cat from accidental poisoning, store products found around the home in inaccessible containers, properly dispose of empty containers and clean up spills promptly.
Dangerous Plants The list of plants potentially dangerous to cats is long. Some of the more common plants that can be poisonous to cats are:
Dieffenbachia, philodendron and caladium cause throat irritation and will burn the throat just as much coming up as going down. Do not induce vomiting and seek veterinary treatment.
English ivy, iris, amaryllis, daffodil and tulip (especially the bulbs) cause gastric irritation and sometimes central nervous system excitement followed by coma and, in severe cases, death. Induce vomiting and seek veterinary treatment.
Foxglove, lily of the valley, oleander, monkshood and larkspur can be life threatening because the cardiovascular system is affected.
The different species of yew are also toxic because they affect the nervous system. If any of these are ingested, get the cat to a veterinarian immediately. Remember you are dealing with a life-threatening emergency.
Poison By Inhalation Cats are vulnerable to the following gases if inhaled: ammonia, carbon monoxide, fumes from heating or cooking gas. A cat suffering from poisoning by inhalation may exhibit weakness and dizziness, breathing difficulties, and bright red lips and tongue. Get the cat into fresh air as quickly as possible. Prompt veterinary treatment is essential.
Symptoms General symptoms of poison by ingestion include pain, nausea, vomiting, and/or collapse. Burns around the mouth, lips and tongue indicate that an acid or alkali such as drain cleaner or paint thinner has been swallowed or the cat has suffered an electric shock. An abnormal odor to the cats breath, coughing or bloody vomitus occur when a petroleum product such as kerosene or gasoline has been swallowed. If the poison is an acid, alkali or petroleum product, do not induce vomiting.
If the cat has swallowed medicine, cosmetics or other noncorrosives, an emetic such as syrup of ipecac can be used to induce vomiting.
Mental confusion, vomiting and eventual collapse are symptoms of antifreeze poisoning. All cases of antifreeze poisoning require immediate treatment by a veterinarian if the cat is to survive.
Insect Bites and Stings Insect bites and stings can cause a mild or severe reaction depending upon the potency of the venom and the sensitivity of the victim. Spider bites most often occur on the front paws or face of the cat. Swelling and reddening of the skin occur at the site of the bite.
Gastrointestinal upsets and nervousness are indications of a toxic reaction and the cat should receive immediate treatment by a veterinarian.
Inquisitive kittens and young cats are most often the victims of bee or wasp stings. The sting site will be red and swollen and the stinger may still be in the cats skin. The stinger should be carefully removed and cold compresses applied to the wound site. A paste of baking soda and water will help relieve irritation and itching. Severe cases may require treatment by a veterinarian. If the sting is in the mouth, swelling within the mouth, tongue or throat can block air passages. Prompt veterinary treatment is essential.
The Dangers of Rodenticides Rodenticides pose another danger to cats. Most rodenticides are formulated for use as toxic baits or tracking powders. When well designed, the baits are attractive to rodents and have little potential for direct ingestion by cats. However, secondary poisoning may result when a cat catches and ingests a poisoned rodent.
Tracking powders are a direct threat to cats. The powders adhere to the paws and the coat of the cat and are ingested when the cat grooms itself. If you observe your cat ingesting tracking powder, consult your veterinarian immediately. If, for any reason, this is not possible, check the package label for information concerning antidotes. If the label does not provide this information, induce vomiting with ½ teaspoon ipecac syrup and bathe the cat to remove tracking powder remaining on its body.
Many of the rodenticides contain anticoagulant (blood thinning) chemicals. When ingested by a cat, life-threatening hemorrhaging can result. Signs of anticoagulant poisoning include weakness, blood in the urine or stools, bleeding gums and nose bleeds. However, it can take several days before any of these signs are apparent, depending on the quantity ingested and the time period of ingestion. If your cat exhibits any of these signs, prompt treatment by your veterinarian is essential.
Another danger for cats is a new class of rodenticides, which cause organ failure and death through soft tissue calcification. The kidneys, heart and lungs are vulnerable to calcification. Signs of this kind of poisoning vary with organs most affected. They may include twitching, nausea and vomiting blood. The best protection against rodenticide poisoning is to use safety baits in a rodent control program. If tracking powders are used, keep all pets and children away from the area,
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( Common Ailments In Cats )

Cat Allergies: Cats, like humans, can suffer from a wide range of allergies. The most common allergy among cats is flea allergy. As cats get older, their sensitivity to flea bites increases. Food allergies account for another 5-10% of cat allergies. Food allergies might manifest themselves as dermatitis and severe itching, or vomiting and diarrhea, but may take up to 10 years to show up.Vomiting: Some cats vomit all the time, while others rarely do. One of the most common reasons for vomiting is hairballs. All cats benefit from regular brushing to help minimize shedding and ingestion of hair. To check to see if your cat has vomited as a result of hairballs, examine the vomit carefully for small grayish pellets or lumps, regardless of your cat’s hair color. Hairballs can occur even with shorthair cats.Another reason for vomiting might be that your cat is allergic to its food. Try switching to another brand with substantially different ingredients and no food colorings to see if that helps. Sometimes cats vomit when they have worms. Consult your vet for a worming appointment. Periodic throwing-up can also be a sign of an overactive thyroid or kidney infection. This is particularly common in older cats. Your vet can do a blood test to find out about either. You know your cat’s habits. If it vomits more than usual or in some way demonstrates a departure from its normal habits, take it to the vet. The main thing is to give it plenty of fluids so it does not become dehydrated.
Diarrhea: If your cat has persistent diarrhea, you can try changing its diet. You can try boiled rice, cottage cheese, bread, plain yogurt, boiled chicken, chicken broth or strained meat. Choose the ones your cat prefers. If symptoms continue for more than two days, take your cat to the vet with a stool sample. You should also call your vet immediately if your kitten is weak or listless, or refuses to take fluids.
Feline Urinary Syndrome: (FUS) Feline urinary syndrome, or FUS, is an inflammation, irritation, and/or obstruction of the lower urinary tract. The inability to pass urine can become a life and death situation if not treated quickly. FUS is far more common among male cats than females. Your cat might have FUS if it strains to urinate, has blood in the urine, makes frequent trips to the litter box with only small amounts voided, or forgets how to use the litterbox.
Diabetes: Diabetes occurs in cats who cannot properly regulate their blood sugar level. Symptoms may include excessive thirst and urination; loss of weight or obesity. Older cats are more likely to develop diabetes than younger ones.Diabetic cats should be kept indoors to prevent accidental feeding that could elevate its blood sugar.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus: (FIV) Though this disease is related to HIV, it is NOT possible to contract AIDS from a cat with FIV. FIV is passed through open wounds such as cat bites, resulting in an impaired immune system. As there is currently no vaccine for this disease, FIV-positive cats should be kept inside and away from other cats.Upper Respiratory Disease Upper respiratory disease will manifest itself in your cat by cold or flu-like symptoms, like a runny nose and sneezing combined with reddened, runny eyes.
Feline Herpes Virus: Don’t worry, you can’t get herpes from your cat! FHV affects only cats.
Chlamydia Psittaci: Chlamydia is a bacteria-like organism that inhabits the tissues around the eyes. The most common symptom is conjunctivitis, which is generally seen in one eye at first, then spreads to both eyes.
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This is Pat's

hungry Cat...

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.7--2007

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'' I still buy fur coats ''

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( Furniture Scratching )

Cats make great pets. They love to play, they love to cuddle when you're watching TV or sleeping, and they purr for no reason other than being near you. But they also love to scratch. Unfortunately, the things they love to scratch are often the legs of your antique table, your upholstered sofa, or your expensive stereo speakers. And no amount of reprimanding or pulling out your hair in frustration seems to make them stop. But don't despair; there are some things you can do. Scratching is easier to deal with if you understand why cats scratch in the first place. In the wild, cats scratch around their immediate environment to signal their presence to other cats and to claim the area in question. The marking takes two forms: visual and olfactory. The visual mark is in the form of clawing marks and is so obvious that even we humans can recognize it (not that we appreciate its significance).

The olfactory mark is subtler, involving the release of pheromones. These are substances secreted from the body to be picked up by members of the same species, causing them to alter their behavior. Cats secrete pheromones from superficial glands in the skin of the cat's paws through the process of kneading. The message is invisible to all creatures and is undetectable unless you have the right equipment (a super sensitive nose) and are close enough. A competitor coming up to the site will see the scratch marks and then smell the message: another cat has already claimed this place. One thing's for sure; the signal is not a friendly one. Scratching has additional functions, too. You might think your cat scratches to sharpen his claws, but it more likely it provides your cat with a form of physical therapy for the muscles and tendons of his paws. It also assists in shucking off old nail husks. The Domestic SituationHealthy and natural to your cat, scratching can become a real problem for the owner. Even your fairly secure housecat will occasionally feel the need to leave his mark by scratching, and the most usual target is your furniture. Faced with this problem, many people consider declawing surgery. Many veterinarians believe declawing is a painful and unnecessary surgery and refuse to do it for humane reasons. Instead, they advocate training your cat to use a scratching post. However, some veterinarians still believe declawing is a safe procedure. Declawing Facts
The surgery. The procedure for declawing involves more than just removal of the nail. It also removes the nail bed and often part or all of the last digit (finger bone).
Intensity of pain. Many cats recovering from this surgery suffer from pain as they wake up. In fact, declawing is considered such a painful surgery that it has been used in studies to investigate methods of pain relief.

Duration of pain. In most cases the pain appears to subside after 24 to 36 hours. However, during that time your cat will be gingerly walking around the place as if his paws are extremely tender – and they probably are. In other instances the pain lasts considerably longer, especially if there are surgical complications.
Adverse consequences. Some cats are still hobbling around years later, though the majority eventually return to “normal” as far as we can tell.
Litterbox use after the surgery. Your cat might find the litter painful on his tender paws. Vets often recommend putting torn up newspaper in the litterbox to prevent litter particles from adhering to the wounds. This practice sometimes leads to litterbox aversion and subsequently inappropriate elimination of urine and/or feces.
Behavioral change. Aggressive cats may be more likely to bite instead of swat with their paws once they have been declawed. Alternatives to DeclawingThere are several good options to declawing. These take the form of training your cat to use scratching posts, trimming the nails, and nail covers.Scratching PostsTo persuade your cat to use a scratching post, you have to understand some basics:
Keep one extra scratching post in the household. If you have four cats, keep five posts. Once the problem is under control, those that are not being used can be removed.
Each scratching post should be tall enough for your cat to stretch up to its full height without being able to reach the top, i.e. about 3 feet high.

The scratching post should be steady. No self-respecting cat will entertain the thought of using a post that rocks or falls over.
Use the correct material. One of the essential functions of scratching is to leave a visible mark. Fabric that doesn't tear or fray will be of no use. Burlap is a favorite with many cats.
Choose an attractive location for your cat. Most people try to hide scratching posts from view. This completely negates the whole purpose of scratching for the cat. Position posts in obvious areas at first, preferably near scratching sites that your cat has selected for himself, then gradually repositioned to less obvious places later.DeterrentsSeveral deterrents are available and may help.

Physical. If a particularly valuable piece of furniture must be protected during training, heavy gauge plastic sheeting can be applied to alter its texture and to serve as a deterrent.
Chemical. You can try moth repellent aerosols, which contain naphthol, though the area has to be “freshened” periodically as the odor will fade.
Pheromonal. “Feliway®,” a pheromone-containing proprietary spray, has been touted as a repellant for furniture scratching cats. The idea is that the pheromone, a natural scent signal and, in this case, an extract of feline facial secretions, will alter the “significance” of the previously scratch-marked area.

Environmental measures. Territorial stress may aggravate marking. If there are squabbles between cohabiting cats, or if a dominant or anxious cat is constantly aggravated by neighborhood intruders, you should address these territorial issues first. Nail CoversA few years ago an excellent product was introduced to reduce damage from furniture scratching humanely. “Soft Paws”™ (or Soft Claws) are plastic nail caps that can be super-glued to a cat's claws following a preliminary nail trim. The results are often spectacular, with damage to furniture practically non-existent while the nail caps remain in place. The manufacturers recommend a complete replacement every month or so, but replacing lost nails individually as they fall off also works (and involves far less work). Nail TrimsDamage to furniture can be reduced if the cat's nails are kept well trimmed. It helps to learn how to do this yourself and to have a sharp pair of nail trimmers made specifically for cats (don't use human trimmers). It is sufficient to remove the sharp points so that the nail ends are squared but take care not to cut into the “quick” – the vascular and sensitive part of the nail. Ask your veterinarian to teach you how and to recommend some good nail clippers.

Source: Pet Place

Featuring,,,The Cat of the Day --Sept. 6--2007

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'' My Cat ''

...by D.B.

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Helpful Article About Your Cat !

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( The Truth About Feeding Your Cat Raw Meat )


Myths about proper diets for our cats seem always to be with us. Some of these myths may have a grain of truth, but this truth is often greatly exaggerated or misapplied. Other myths are nurtured by misinformation and mistrust.
A current myth that could be threatening to our cats’ health involves raw meat diets for dogs and cats. The proponents of this belief question the wholesomeness and nutritional value of commercial cat foods. But, in fact, there is no scientific substantiation for raw meat diets.
The truth is that good quality cat foods are backed by years of feline and canine nutrition studies. They are the result of scientific studies by researchers in veterinary colleges and animal nutritionists at reputable cat food manufacturers. Ralston Purina Company, for example, began its cat nutrition studies over 70 years ago. This work continues as researchers launch new studies to learn even more about the relationship of diet to our cats’ health.
In our own diets, meat is combined with vegetables, fruits, breads and other foods to give us the balanced nutrition we need. If we were to eat one particular food consistently, chances are we would become malnourished or develop health problems. No single food or food group can provide all the nutrients we need in proper proportions. Manufacturers of good quality cat foods have incorporated all the nutrients a dog or cat needs during a particular life stage into nutritionally complete and balanced diets.
Although meat is a source of protein, it has very low levels of calcium, a mineral our cats require for proper bone and tooth development. Calcium also plays an important role in blood clotting, muscle contraction and transmission of nerve impulses.
It’s important to remember that nutrients do not work alone, and calcium is no exception. Mineral nutrients are interrelated. Calcium and phosphorus have a scientifically established relationship in the formation of bones and teeth, provided a proper balance is maintained. This balance is usually not present in meat. If large quantities of raw meat are fed over time, skeletal problems may develop.
We tend to think of liver as being a "healthy" meat. Served with other foods, it is a beneficial part of many human diets. Liver has a high level of vitamin A, a fat-soluble vitamin that is stored by the body. When liver is fed to cats in large quantities over a period of time, vitamin A toxicity can result. This can lead to improper bone development, lameness and bone decalcification.
Raw meat carries the threat of bacteria and parasites. Salmonella is a bacterial organism that can cause a variety of disease in humans and animals. The risk of salmonellosis is always present when cats are fed raw meat diets. Certain species of tapeworm can be found in raw meat and passed on to a cat who ingests the meat. High quality commercial cat foods are carefully processed to protect against salmonella or internal parasite infection.
It’s true that cats and dogs consume a certain amount of muscle meat when they eat wild animals for survival. However, they also consume the bones, intestinal contents and internal organs which come closer to providing a complete and balanced diet.
Attempting to supplement a raw meat diet with vitamins and minerals is risky for your cat’s health. Certain vitamins and minerals react with one another. Unless they are present in the proper amounts a cat may suffer malnutrition.
When a myth involving cat nutrition is suddenly exploited, we should ask ourselves: "What scientific research supports this statement?" "Have veterinary colleges done research to validate it?" "Do respected researchers in the fields of canine and feline nutrition support it?" "They said" or "I heard that" do not provide the substantiation we need when confronted with myths involving the nutrition and well-being of our special companions.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.5-2007

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That's my last beer

... I Swear !

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Care for Your Cat : ( Dental health )

Just like humans, cats are vulnerable to gum disease, infections and tooth problems. In fact, 60% of pets more than 5 years old suffer from serious dental disease, and in certain breeds of cat (Somali, Abyssinian, Burmese and Siamese), the proportion is as high as 80-90%.
Bad breath is caused by the action of bacteria in the mouth, and is an indicator of dental disease. If the problem is not attended to at this stage, it can progress until tooth loss, bleeding from the mouth and/or decreased appetite are seen.
Sometimes dental disease can lead to far more serious problems elsewhere in the body. Bacteria multiply readily in the mouth, and as the gums become inflamed and start to bleed, these bacteria gain access to the blood stream. They circulate throughout the body (a condition called "septicaemia") and lodge in organs, causing abscesses to form. The tissues most prone to this are the heart valves, organs that filter blood (kidney and liver), and tissues with many, very small vessels (lungs and joints). This process can lead to problems such as severe arthritis, or major life threatening illnesses such as kidney or heart failure.
So what can I do?
Have your pet's teeth examined by your veterinarian, and proceed with a professional dental clean if it is recommended. However, long-term control and prevention of dental disease requires regular home care.
Dental home care may include:
Tooth brushing (at least 3 times a week). This is the best form of dental hygiene and many products are now available to assist you.
Raw chicken wings (using Mother Nature's tooth brush). The chewing of tough cartilage and bone scrapes tartar and plaque off teeth.
Dental exercisers, chew toys and special diets (e.g. Hill's t/d diet). These all assist in reducing plaque, but are rarely enough to treat advanced dental disease.
The important thing to remember is to start early. Kittens quickly learn to accept dental home care as part of their daily routine, allowing you to develop proper dental hygiene early enough to prevent problems. However, older animals can also learn and benefit from the same processes. Regular and frequent attention to your pet's teeth will avoid annual visits to the Hospital for a professional dental clean, and will also improve your pet's overall health.
What is involved in a professional dental clean?
Your cat needs to be anaesthetised to carry out a proper dental examination, and to clean all teeth without distressing the animal. In older pets we recommend a pre-anaesthetic blood profile before the anaesthetic.
After anaesthetic induction, a thorough dental examination is carried out. This involves charting the teeth present and assessing their condition, including the degree of tartar, gingivitis (gum inflammation) and any pockets in the gums around the teeth. After the teeth are examined, a treatment protocol is designed. This usually begins with removing tartar above the gum line using a special dental burr. After the visible surface of the teeth is clean, tartar is scraped out of gum pockets by hand.The teeth are then polished using a dental polisher and specialised fine grade paste. The dental procedure ends here if dental disease is not severe, however, if extractions are necessary due to advanced periodontal disease, these would then be performed.
When extracting teeth, the small teeth or incisors are often removed first using a hand-held dental elevator. However, the canine and larger teeth (premolars and molars) usually require the gum to be elevated from the bone, which is then removed by burring with a dental air drill to free the tooth. It is often necessary to cut teeth into root segments using this air drill to allow complete removal of the tooth. The remaining bone is smoothed using a special burr and the gums sutured closed over the socket. When all the dental work is done, the animal is given an antibiotic injection, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your pet is allowed to wake up.
Following a professional dental clean, a home care programme is designed for you depending on the severity of your cat's dental disease. As mentioned previously, this may involve regular tooth brushing, feeding raw chicken wings and/or a special diet. One of our staff will discuss this with you and answer any questions you might have when you come to collect your pet. We perform a progress examination to monitor gum healing 7 days after surgery for any animal that has had extractions. We also recommend all pets be examined 6 months after dental cleaning to determine the effectiveness of your home dental care.
Are there any alternatives to tooth removal?Newer techniques now allow us to preserve teeth at times rather than remove them. This may involve root canal work or specialised fillings for eroded teeth. Tooth capping can also be performed, but unfortunately man has not yet found materials strong enough to withstand the forces of nature, thus crowns are prone to breaking if hard objects are chewed. These complex dental techniques would be conducted by a specialised Veterinary Dentist.
How can I get my pet to tolerate tooth brushing?Starting your pet on tooth brushing may seem difficult at first, but with the right attitude and gentle persuasion, you will get there!
Because this is a very new sensation for your pet, take it slowly. Start by handling the mouth gently, using your finger to rub the gum line. A little tuna juice on the tip of your finger helps your cat to enjoy the sensation! Next wrap a piece of gauze around your finger, dip it into water and gently scrub the teeth along the gum line. You can gradually progress to using special animal toothpaste on either an animal toothbrush or a soft children's toothbrush. Human toothpaste is not recommended, and neither is baking soda and salt, since this can cause problems in older animals.
When you first start tooth brushing, just lift the upper lip on one side to expose the outer surfaces of some teeth and brush them by making gentle circling motions from the gums towards the ends of the teeth. Keep the initial period short and don't insist if your pet starts to object. If you manage to clean only one tooth before your pet has had enough, fine. The main thing is to keep it from becoming an ordeal for both of you. Take heart from the fact that in one regard it is easier than doing your own teeth, because you only need to do the outside - the tongue does the inside job for you!
When you have succeeded in brushing some easy-to-reach teeth, go for the complete set. One way to open your cat's mouth is to put one hand across the bridge of the nose, then tilt the head back and hold it steady (similar to when you give tablets). The less you restrain your pet the better. Start with brief but productive bouts of mouth opening and tooth brushing.
Even if you do not get far in the process, always reward your pet. Give praise and a treat immediately after each dental hygiene session. If you make these periods a precursor to more enjoyable things (such as dinner!), your cat is likely to be more compliant.
If you manage a good brushing session three times a week you will save your cat 90% of the dental disease he or she would have otherwise suffered. Brush daily and your pet is likely to avoid gum disease altogether !

Box Hill Veterianary Hospital

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.4-2007

I'm Rose E. and here is my Lovely Cat !
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Helpful Article for Your Cat !

( Heatstroke And Frostbite )



Heat Stroke: Heat stroke most commonly occurs in cats left in poorly ventilated or closed cars exposed to the sun. Unavailability of drinking water, excessive exercise or excitement may also be a cause. Symptoms include open-mouthed breathing, uncontrollable panting, drooling or foaming at the mouth, gums and tongue turning bluish or gray. Act quickly to reduce body temperature. Submerge the stricken cat in cool water (do not submerge its head) or spray with a gentle stream from a hose. Ice packs may be applied to the head or neck. Prompt veterinary care is needed to prevent
brain damage, or in some cases, death.
Frostbite: Very young, old or debilitated cats are the most prone to frostbite, possibly because they are less able to seek shelter when exposed to the extreme cold. The pads of the feet, the tail, and the tips of the ears are the most likely to be affected. The skin becomes pale, then reddens and becomes hot and painful to the touch. Swelling may occur. The hair may fall out and the superficial layers of the skin may peel.
If a cat experiences frostbite, take it to a warm place immediately. Thaw out the frostbitten areas slowly. Do not apply hot applications and do not rub or massage frozen tissues. This may cause further damage or loss of tissue. Warm the affected areas by using warm moist towels that are changed frequently. Discontinue warming as soon as the affected tissues become flushed. Wrap the cat in a blanket to conserve its body heat.
Antiseptic cream or Vaseline may be used to protect the skin once the skin is thawed. A veterinarian should check the extent of the damage as soon as possible.A cat who has suffered frost bite should be protected from further exposure to the cold. Frostbitten tissues are more susceptible to repeated freezing.
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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Sept.3-2007

Kyle's Cat Day !

Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.31-2007

Basil's Baby" watercolor © Drew Strouble
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Hi Everyone.. I'm Drew Strouble
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's way of keeping law & order? Claw Enforcement


Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Feline Vaccinations )

Periodic vaccinations, or immunizations, are an important part of your cat's preventive health care plan.
Let's start by explaining what vaccination does for your cat.
In very simple terms, vaccination provides protection for your cat against the agent (usually a virus or bacteria) included in the vaccine. For instance, a rabies vaccine protects your cat against developing rabies.
To be more specific, vaccination (or immunization) is the act of introducing a virus, in an inactivated form, to your cat's immune system in an attempt to allow the immune system to develop protection (in the form of antibodies) against the virus in question before your cat is exposed to the naturally occurring, more dangerous virus.
There are several different types of vaccines which may be used.
A killed vaccine (KV) is a vaccine which contains a virus which is no longer "living". Your cat's immune system develops antibodies to the virus which provide protection against the disease caused by the virus, without the danger of your cat becoming ill. Once adequate numbers of antibodies have been formed and an adequate immune response is achieved, your cat will be safe in the event that he/she is exposed to the "living" form of the virus. Many rabies vaccines are killed vaccines.
A "modified-live" vaccine (MLV) is a vaccine which contains a virus which has been modified from its dangerous state so that it no longer causes disease. By introducing this "modified" virus to your cat, your cat's immune system is able to produce antibodies which protect him/her from the un-modified, disease-causing virus.
Other vaccine types utilize technologies such as recombinant DNA to produce immunity for your pet. These techniques render the disease agent to an inactive state which produces immunity when it is introduced to your cat's immune system.
In recent years, there has been some concern about potential vaccine reactions which has caused some changes in the way we vaccinate our animals today.
Currently, there are a group of "core" vaccines, which are vaccines which are required by all cats.
There is also a group of "non-core" vaccines which may or may not be necessary, depending on your cat's individual lifestyle and risk of exposure.
Which vaccines need to be given and how often they are given will vary from one cat to another. Your cat's veterinarian can help you decide which vaccines and what vaccination schedule is appropriate for your cat.

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Hi Everyone.. I'm Brett F.
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

Why did a person with an unspayed female cat have to go to court?
For kitty littering.
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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Physical Examination )

Physical examination is an essential part of the routine health care for any pet. A thorough physical exam explores all parts of your pet's body, from the nose all the way to the tail.
Your veterinarian will examine your pet's teeth and mouth for signs of gingivitis (inflammation of the gums) and/or dental disease, as well as looking for any abnormal growths in the mouth. The color of your pet's gums will be examined, making sure they a normal pink color and are not pale (from anemia), yellow (as a result of icterus, often due to liver failure), or cyanotic (as a result of breathing difficulties).
The eyes will be checked for signs of cataracts, glaucoma, corneal injuries, or other abnormalities.
Your pet's ears will be examined to make certain they are healthy and that there is no evidence of infection, inflammation, or other abnormalities such as polyps.
The externally palpable lymph nodes will be examined to make sure they are of normal size.
Your veterinarian will use a stethoscope to listen to your pet's heart and lung sounds, looking for heart murmurs, abnormal heart rhythms, and abnormally harsh or abnormally quiet sounds in the lung fields.
He/she will also check your pet's pulse rate to make sure it is not too fast or too slow and that there are no "missed" beats.
The respiratory rate will also be checked.
Your veterinarian will palpate your pet's abdomen to make certain he/she cannot feel any abnormal masses within the abdomen.
Your pet's genitalia will be examined to make certain there are no abnormal discharges or swellings.
Your veterinarian may also want check your pet's temperature.
If you have noticed any abnormal lumps or bumps on your pet's body, this would be a good time to point them out to your veterinarian.
You should also advise your veterinarian of any changes in your pet's behavior or eating habits.
If your pet is acting abnormally in any way, your veterinarian will need to know about it. This may include such things as diarrhea or vomiting, coughing or sneezing. runny eyes or a runny nose, difficulty urinating or defecating, difficulty chewing food, difficulty going up and down stairs or rising from a sitting position.
It may also include acting more sluggish or lethargic than normal, not eating as much as normal, drinking less than normal or drinking more than normal.
If your dog is having accidents, such as urinating or defecating in the house, or your cat is urinating or defecating outside of his/her litter box or in abnormal places, you should inform your veterinarian.
Likewise, if your pet is urinating involuntarily and leaving pools of urine where he/she sleeps or rests, your veterinarian will need to be informed.
This information will allow your veterinarian to focus on specific body systems in order to reach a diagnosis regarding the cause of the abnormalities. The physical examination is the place where any such diagnosis needs to start, although additional testing (blood tests, x-rays, etc) may be necessary to accurately diagnose some conditions.
In addition to helping your veterinarian determine what is wrong with your pet when he/she is not feeling well, regular physical examinations may also help detect early signs of disease in pets which are still acting normally. In this case, your veterinarian may be able to help you treat the problem before your pet begins to feel badly.
Physical examinations are important for pets of any age. However, as your pet starts to age, they become even more important. Our pets age much faster than we do, and regular physical examinations will help you and your veterinarian detect any abnormalities which may affect your pet's quality of life.
By finding these abnormalities early, it is often possible to make changes in your pet's routine which eliminate or slow the progress of diseases such as heart failure, kidney failure, arthritis pain, dental disease, and many more. Your veterinarian may even advise more frequent physical examinations for your pet as he/she ages.....
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How did a cat take first prize at the bird show?

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( Caring For Your Cat's Claws )

Trimming Claws: All cats need their claws trimmed on a regular basis unless they have been declawed, and, in fact, keeping your cats nails trimmed on a regular basis may eliminate the need for declawing. If your cat’s claws start snagging - on fabric or on you -it’s a good indication that they need clipping. A pair of clippers designed especially for cats should be used and are available at pet stores. Never use regular scissors as they can crush and injure your cat’s claw. Since most cats will struggle when you clip their claws, it is wise to wear long sleeves and pants and wait until the cat is sleepy. If your cat is especially reluctant to have its claws clipped, you might need someone to hold it for you, while you do the clipping.
Otherwise, begin by holding your cat in your lap or on the floor between your knees. Make sure there is sufficient lighting and that you are familiar with the way the claws look. Pin the cat to your side with your arm and hold one of its front paws in your hand. Gently press on one toe until the claw pops into full view. Clip it, being careful not to cut into the quick, the slightly pinkish area containing nerves and blood vessels. When in doubt, trim less of the nail. Repeat with the next toe and so on. Don’t forget the dewclaws - found only on the front paws - located right about where humans would have their thumbs.
Declawing: Careful consideration should be given to whether or not you declaw your cat. Declawing is the surgical removal of the claw and the surrounding tissue that it retracts into. Usually, only the front claws are removed, but sometimes the digits are removed as well. Declawing is often the last resort for cats who have become veteran scratchers of furnishings. Most cats can be trained from kittenhood not to scratch the furniture or to scratch a scratching post when they want exercise, butall cats will continue to scratch, with or without claws, as scratching is one way of marking their territory.
Before declawing, you might want to consider soft plastic covers for your cat’s paws. In general, these should be put on by a vet and will last about a month, despite your cat’s efforts to remove them. Used in conjunction with techniques to redirect clawing and scratching, covers for your cat’s paws may serve as an alternative to declawing.
If your cat is consistently destroying your home furnishings and all other efforts have failed, you might want to have it declawed, but first there are a few things of which you should be aware. Declawed cats often compensate with their rear claws. They can still climb well, but their ability to defend themselves will be impaired. Declawed cats should not be allowed outside without supervision. Some declawed cats will become biters when they discover that their claws no longer work. Others may begin to growl.
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Cat Article courtesy of AwesomeCats.com

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.27-2007

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Hi Everyone...I'm Elaine M.
and here is my lovely Cat.
http://redbubble.com/people/lucindawind/art
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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's way of keeping law & order? Claw Enforcement.
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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( Dangerous House Plants )

Dangerous House Plants: Although we think of cats as carnivores, in fact many are fond of vegetables and other plant material. Although food preferences vary with individual cats, many will sample a plot of grass outdoors, the leaves of a potted houseplant indoors, or other common items like shoelaces.
Cats confuse their owners by ending grass-grazing with regurgitation or vomiting. The reason for this predictable behavior is unclear, but it has been suggested that our pets eat grass, at least sometimes, in order to stimulate vomiting. Relief from hairball indigestion may be one motive for plant eating in cats. However, not all plant-eating leads to getting "sick", so it is a good idea to consult with your vet if the pattern continues.
Because of this tendency to seek and ingest vegetation, cats may naturally experiment with the taste of houseplants. Such behavior can be undesirable, at best, or dangerous when leaves or other plant parts are toxic.
To keep your cat safe, be sure all plants in your home are safe in case of ingestion, or place them out of reach. Hanging pots, for example, usually lose their appeal even to curious cats. Non-toxic, valued plants can be protected with a small amount of sprayed vinegar or black pepper solution on leaves.
As a gift to those cats that seem determined to eat plants, owners can offer treats of herbicide- and pesticide-free potted grass. Grass seeds or even parakeet seeds can be sprouted in seedling pots and offered occasionally, the empty pot then re-seeded for a new batch. In small amounts, grass can be a welcome treat for any house cat.
Listed here are plants poisonous to cats that must be avoided if there are cats in your home. While in some cases just parts of a plant bark, leaves, seeds, berries, roots, tubers, spouts, green shells might be poisonous, this list rules out the whole plant. If you must have any of them, keep them safely out of reach. Should your feline friend eat part of a poisonous plant, rush the cat to your veterinarian as soon as possible. If you can, take the plant with you for ease of identification.
Plants Poisonous To Cats
• Alfalfa• Almond (Pits of)• Alocasia• Amaryllis• Apple (seeds)• Apricot (Pits of)• Arrowgrass• Avocado• Azalea• Baneberry• Bayonet• Beargrass• Beech• Belladonna• Bird of Paradise• Bittersweet• Black-eyed Susan• Black Locust• Bleeding Heart• Bloodroot• Bluebonnet• Box• Boxwood• Buckeyes• Burning Bush• Buttercup• Cactus• Candelabra• Caladium• Castor Bean• Cherry (pits)• Cherry, wild varieties• Cherry, ground• Cherry, Laurel• Chinaberry• Christmas Rose• Chrysanthemum• Clematis• Coriaria• Cornflower• Corn Plant• Cornstalk Plant• Croton• Corydalis• Crocus, Autumn• Crown of Thorns• Cuban Laurel• Cutleaf Philodendron• Cycads• Cyclamen• Daffodil Daphne• Datura• Deadly Nightshade• Death Camas• Delphinium• Decentrea• Dieffenbachia• Dumb Cane• Easter Lily• Eggplant• Elderberry• Elephant Ear• English Ivy• Euonymus• Evergreen• Ferns• Flax• Four O’Clock• Foxglove• Golden Chain• Golden Glow• Gopher Purge• Hellebore• Hemlock, Poison• Hemlock, Water• Henbane• Holly• Honeysuckle• Horsebeans• Horsebrush• Horse Chestnuts• Hyacinth• Hydrangea• Indian Tobacco• Iris• Iris Ivy• Jack in the Pulpit• Java Beans• Jessamine• Jerusalem Cherry• Jimson Weed• Jonquil• Jungle Trumpets• Lantana• Larkspur• Laurel• Lily• Lily Spider• Lily of the Valley• Locoweed• Lupine• Marigold• Marijuana• Mescal Bean• Mistletoe• Mock Orange• Monkshood• Moonseed• Morning Glory• Mountain Laurel• Mushrooms• Narcissus• Nightshade• Oleander• Peach (pits of)• Pencil Cactus• Peony• Periwinkle• Philodendron• Pimpernel• Poinciana• Poinsettia• Poison Hemlock• Poison Ivy• Poison Oak• Pokeweed• Poppy• Potato Plant• Precatory Bean• Primrose• Privet, Common• Rhododendron• Rhubarb• Ribbon Plant• Rosemary Pea• Rubber Plant• Scotch Broom• Skunk Cabbage• Snowdrops• Snow on the Mountain• Staggerweed• Star of Bethlehem• Sweetpea• Tansy Mustard• Tobacco• Tomato Plant• Tulip• Tung Tree• Virginia Creeper• Water Hemlock• Weeping Fig• Wild Call• Wisteria• Yews --• e.g. Japanese Yew• English Yew• Western Yew• American Yew
If you want to add this cat article to your website, you must include the following author information with the cat article - including the links:

Cat Article courtesy of AwesomeCats.com

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Featuring...The Cat of the Day--Aug.26-2007

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Hi Everyone...I'm Shirly K.

and here is my lovely Cat.

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Cat Joke... by ZoZo ( the cat )

What is a cat's favourite song? Three Blind Mice.

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Helpfull Article for Your Cat

( About Cat Veterinarians )

Consulting a Veterinarian: Unfortunately, your cat can’t tell you how it feels, but as you become familiar with its normal behavior, appetite, body weight and level of activity, you’ll be able to instantly detect if something is wrong. Significant changes to any of the above serve as a warning sign that your cat is not feeling well. If your cat appears ill, you need to consult a veterinarian immediately.
Finding a Vet: If you’ve just moved to a new town, or have just gotten a cat for the first time, there are various ways to find a good vet in your area. First, ask around. Often you’ll get an excellent referral. Next, call the local humane society and ask the names of any vets who volunteer their time. Call the local breed associations and see who their members use. Or, ask the owners of well-cared-for cats - you’re bound to get some names that way.
Choosing a Vet: Choosing a vet is a lot like choosing a pediatrician. If you’ve never done that before, choose a vet with whom you are comfortable and who will be available to answer your questions. A good vet will be associated with a 24-hour emergency care plan or be able to put you in touch with one in your area. You might ask yourself some of these questions when choosing a vet: Do the animals visiting the office seem nervous, but comfortable